9N water pump question

Friend's 9n (not sure year) sat for a long time in a barn. Did a coolant drain/refill, oil, got it to start and run. Took a short spin around the yard, let it sit to just run some, and it did. Cold here in MI, at some point wondered about the coolant. Took off the rad cap, saw no water movement. We do notice oil in the water, not huge amounts, but not 2 drops...few days later, redrained, took off the lower coolant tube and when turning the fan, can see the shaft moving, but can't see the water pump vanes. Not sure if it's turning or not.

With the thermostat(didn't check that yet), it's possible that water doesn't move until the thermo opens correct? We should probably retry and let it sit and continuously watch it and it should open at some point I suppose. Or I could take the thermo out and pan test it?

When the weather turns really cold[like in Michigan] it may take quite a while before the thermostat opens fully. I started mine when it was -10*,and it took a while for the t-stat to open,even with the radiator partially covered. You might want to remove and either replace or check it for opening at 140 or so.

Good morning, lha: In my humble opinion, covering the radiator would not help it start warming up, since the thermostat was closed and the coolant in the block was not getting to the radiator.
.
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
.

Partially covered. It does speed up the warm-up on mine,maybe not yours.

ALL N's used the same coolant system with ONLY the radiator changing from a non-pressurized unit (9N-8005) to a pressurized unit (2N-8005). The early RAD had a large box-type top and used a STANT chrome covered RAD CAP. Caps are not interchangeable - early cap clips from inside port, pressurized cap clips from outside of port. The Thermostat is a must for your system. Be certain it is inserted in the upper Rad Hose; pointed end goes towards RAD, and hose uses a band to keep thermostat in place nearest engine. A plastic wire tie can be used but a new hose also has a band like original but not all suppliers have it so it matters where you buy from. Denny Carpenter makes a Thermostat that is marked with correct direction of flow and an arrow on it. You don't need to open cap and view coolant flow in cold weather -I live in MICH THUMB, cold 9 months a year, and have never had problems with coolant. Standard warming up for 15 minutes or so will get engine warmed up. Oil in coolant indicates you probably have a worn engine and head is leaking thru water jacket and/or a crack in the block. Here's an article from the N-NEWS written by Bruce(VA) on coolant use on the N's.

NEW THERMOSTAT FROM DENNIS CARPENTER FOR N-SERIES TRACTOR, NOTE ARROW AND DIRECTIONAL FLOW TO RADIATOR:

9N-8005 NON-PRESSURIZED RADIATOR:

2N-8005 PRESSURIZED RADIATOR:

ORIGINAL THERMOSTAT & POSTION BAND:

STANT RADIATOR CAP, 9N-8100, USED ONLY WITH NON-PRESSURIZED RADIATOR:

RADIATOR CAP USED, 2N-8100, ONLY ON PRESSURIZED RADIATOR:


THE N-NEWS; KEEPING IT COOL by BRUCE HAYNES









Tim Daley(MI)

Forgot to mention you must have fan belt tension regardless if using 6V and a GEN or 12V and an ALT. Two big reasons - 1st, you will never charge the battery without proper belt tension, and 2nd, you won't be able to maintain proper cooling with the fan with and the radiator without it. A sloppy setup may also cause water pump damage and radiator overheating.


Tim Daley(MI)

Thermostats do not stop the coolant flow completely, so restricting airflow to the radiator can have some effect on the rate of heating with the thermostat closed.

The coolant needs to circulate slowly through the engine at all times to avoid hot spots and to allow the thermostat to function. The thermostat needs to sense the coolant temperature inside the engine. Since the thermostat is outside the engine, the heated coolant has to circulate enough to heat the thermostat. Even a small flow of coolant will cool the engine somewhat on a cold day.

Covering radiator definitely speeds up warm up. I plow snow with my N in New England (two feet worth last week). It takes forever for the oil to thin out as indicated by oil pressure dropping as it warms without the radiator covered.

BTW, I'm still preheating the carb with a hair dryer while I shovel out snow around the house/barns. Starting greatly improved and no gas fouled plugs all winter.