New to me 2N

Also new to this site. Hi!
Anyhoo, I'll get right to my problem. I've been cleaning up some previous owner type "repairs" for lack of a better term. This includes replacing the hack job, spaghetti, bypass, wire nut, disconnected, and otherwise totally unacceptable wiring. Pardon my rant. I chose to go 12v - ground alternator route. I got the deluxe kit with all new cables, ballast resistor, etc. Easy install. Neat and clean just the way I like it. The whole thing functions flawlessly.
BUTT,
while driving the tractor the other day for no particular reason other than because I can, I was turning left off a lime rock driveway onto a grassy area and the right front drag link made contact with the alternator cooling fins because of a change in the angle of the front axle. What a horrible noise. like 20 fingernails on a chalkboard.
My initial thought is to move the spindles out to the next width. I'll only be using the machine for brush hogging, raking and grading. So width is not critical.
Thoughts?
Anyone have a similar experience with the alternator conversion on a front mount distributor tractor?

This post was edited by Grouchonacouch on 11/24/2022 at 09:02 am.

You don't indicate just how you are set up but.. making use of the SHORTEST Belt possible is a good place to start. Having a badly worn center pin on the fronbt axle may allow it to travel further than fresh
parts would allow... Free advice...

(quoted from post at 16:20:06 11/23/22)
Anyone have a similar experience with the alternator conversion on a front mount distributor tractor?

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yes, i had the same issue. the problem was as Duey highlighted - the belt was too long.

Thanks for the free advice! When I get back, I'll jack it up and check how much play there is in the pivot.

I've installed the shortest belt possible without the belt making contact with the distributor.




Current setup pictured. I know...the rear tires are backwards. The PO did that. I just haven't swapped them yet.[/img:0dcb0fc6e3]

Why did you go positive ground?

OOPS! Typo..It's negative ground.

I had to do some "adjusting" of the bottom bracket to get the alternator low enough and far enough away from the engine for the belt to clear the distributor. Thats' why the top adjustment is almost all the way out. It looks like the belt is too long but, any shorter and it would rub the bottom of the distributor. Using the kit I bought that's right where it has to be.

Tires that way to get you out of hole you might get stuck in. More traction.

In my limited experience, alternator placement/mounting on these is surprisingly touchy. I had to take off the alternator that came on my 8N to have it rebuilt, then had a heckuva time getting it back on just right using what appears to be a modified bracket. When I first started the engine, the belt was squealing badly and there was an obvious alignment issue. It turned out that I had the washers on the mounting hardware positioned wrong with the bolts; after correcting, the belt runs just fine.

I had the same problem with my 2n conversion. I tried 3 different belts. Could not get the belt to clear the distributor and the alternator to not hit the drag link. It took me longer than It should have to figure out I need to widen the axle. Mine was set all the way in. Moved it out 1 hole on each side and my clearance issues were fixed

(quoted from post at 14:47:00 11/24/22) In my limited experience, alternator placement/mounting on these is surprisingly touchy.

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Agreed! Of course, retrofitting anything old with new has it's quirks I suppose.

(quoted from post at 22:01:35 11/24/22) I had the same problem with my 2n conversion. I tried 3 different belts. Could not get the belt to clear the distributor and the alternator to not hit the drag link. It took me longer than It should have to figure out I need to widen the axle. Mine was set all the way in. Moved it out 1 hole on each side and my clearance issues were fixed

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Sounds familiar. I won't be near the tractor until late next week. I'm still going to check for slop in that axle pivot but, I'm leaning toward your solution.

My 1944 2N has never had the axle set in that close since new, Only for
speciality work is it to be set in that far. Normal setting is 52 front and
rear and not the 48 with the narrow setting and the 52 is the correct
setting for a moldboard plow that mine used for years. Just got out my orignal
service manual to double check the measurements.

Last time I was there I moved the axle out one hole. That should solve my alt problem. However, it presented a new problem. I don't have enough adjustment left in my drag link ends to get the toe right. I have them out way too far and it is still toe'd way too far in. After a little research I think incorrect spindles were installed somewhere along the line. With the wheels pointed straight ahead the spindle arms are oriented forward of the axle. the spindle arms are the correct part #s for a 2N. 2N 3131, 2N 3130. I think the 8N spindle keyway has a different orientation than 9N 2N.

Thoughts?

I just had a thought..... Could the spindles be correct for the model but just on the wrong sides of the tractor? RH on LH and vise versa? That would definitely change the position of the keyway.