Fuel Sediment bowl assy

I need to replace sediment bowl assy on a TO20, same one is listed for the Ns.

What is consensus on best source that is not a brand new POS/Turd?

YT here has a good price. TSC is more expensive, in stock local, buttttt.... and has crap reviews/they all leak. Not sure on the ones from NAPA or ORiellys, they cost more too.

One on it now is an aftermarket (Tisco?), it don't seem to have the reserve setting, so not just rebuilding OEM with screens valve parts.

What is on it:

I bought one from this site and it leaked too. I ended up using parts from the new one and parts from the old one to get it to work.

I've used several from tractor supply,
one from Napa and used dozens of old
ones, those got new gasket and screen
from tractor supply. Never had any of
them leak. Don't over tighten, make
sure glass is clean, make sure metal
where cork gasket goes is clean.
Tighten a little, twist glass a little,
snug it up. Fool proof, at least for
me.

Oh.... And the new ones, I never took apart, just screwed into the tank, using a little yellow gas pipe thread sealant from home Depot

PITA getting the bowl assy off. Fitting for gas line froze/rusted into fitting and fitting rounded off by prior monkeys work. I got the reducer fitting loose from the bowl assy, but had to disconnected the gasline at the carb, bend it straight, so I could spin off the reducer fitting without twisting the line. Should have just cut it off and put in new as will be now anyway.

The bowl assy was missing both screens and plugged with junk on the tank side.

Carb was full of E-10 snot from sitting two years. So much it plugged the bowl drain so no gas flowed out, I thought the needle/float was stuck.

Off to order a carb kit......

Hope you get a carb kit with a rubber tipped float needle.
That will also help diminish un-metered fuel flow into the carb.

(quoted from post at 22:44:57 09/24/22) Hope you get a carb kit with a rubber tipped float needle.
That will also help diminish un-metered fuel flow into the carb.

Click to expand...

Tractor is a Franken-Fergie. I knew this to start with and have downloaded and read operator/service manuals.

Been looking at carb kits. Not sure what the subtle differences are in the kit contents? Engine got a switch, it's a Z129- Continental TO30, carb is a TSX 361A (from TO20) not the TSX 458 (TO30). Looks re-buildable. Return spring for choke shaft is rusted/shot (fits on shaft where choke lever hooks up). The partial kits don't seem to have that but full kits are a lot more $$$$.

I have the MF Parts Book for the TO20 TO30 TA20 tractors. Seems there are some slight changes to internals to TSX 361 vs TSX 458 carbs (i.e. main nozzles different, main needles the same). I guess this will effect tune a bit? This is pages 46-47 TSX 458 and pages 48-49 TSX 361A of MF parts manual.

NAPA lists same kits for partial and full repair kits, TO20 and TO30. Kits here at YT are different for TSX 361A and TSX 458.

Any thoughts suggestions on this? I still need to tear down carb and dunk it to see the good the bad and the ugly.

I should cross post these questions in the Ferguson Forum here where I started a thread on the tractor. Done!

Unless the fuel line threads on the Sediment Bulb are all boogered up/cross threaded and causing the leak, the usual suspect for leaking is the Valve Stem Assembly, the only wear part on the unit. New one, p/n APN-9194, can be bought for about $6 so no need to buy a whole new Bulb Assembly. I would say no Bulbs are made in the USA and most everything now is made in Cheena. The Valve Stem has a rubber seal on it internally, some use vinyl, and that is what wears and can cause leaks. Fuel and brake lines use a special thread size, 7/16-24 UNS, and if the Bulb gets cross threaded, you are not going to fix it. I recommend you apply a dab of Theadlocking Material on the 8-32 screw that secures the Valve Knob onto the stem with. New units tend to loosen in the field, fall off, and get lost forever. You never have to remove the knob so it won't be a hindrance and you get a new screw and knob with the new stem. Use the correct steel fuel line, never copper, plastic, or aluminum. Use no Teflon tape or pipe goop. TISCO makes the best CARB kits: Do the Fuel Flow Test first, after you get leaking issue fixed. You can do PM on the Bulb with a cleaning of the 3 screens in the fuel system; two on the Bulb, one on the carb brass elbow fuel line inlet. Replace Bulb cork gasket and brass mesh screen under glass bowl. FORD parts fit the FERGUSON TE/TO parts too.

FORD N-TRACTOR FUEL SEDIMENT BULB VALVE ASSEMBLY:

FUEL SYSTEM IN-LINE SCREENS:

TISCO CARB KIT:




Tim Daley(MI)

Hi Tim. Read my posts over again.

Problem was not a leak, it was no flow. That was traced down to clogged inlet on the valve/sediment bowl inside the tank. The assy is missing both screens so I might just replace the assy. One on it does not seem to have the reserve feature, see picture.

Moving "downstream" the TSX 361A carb needs a bath and probably a rebuild kit. It's been taken apart/halves separated, it's full of crud and I need to see how extensive of a carb kit I need.

I'm hoping a cycle shop I used to work at will let me use their carb dunk bucket. I'm posting about this on the Fergie forum and will do further updates there.