1940 9N

My 1940 9N quit running. Started to trouble shoot and found that air is blowing out of carburetor. Replaced manifold gasket and problem still exists. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Remove the valve covers and see if all the valves are working.
75 Tips

Yes , valves are working

Do a compression test and see which intake valve is not seating, allowing the compression stroke to push air out between the valve & seat and out of the carburettor.

Thanks, will try that next. Might take the head off too inspect valves

No need to pull the head.

If the valves all moved when you had the valve covers off, just do a compression check.
75 Tips

6V or 12V??? Air leak around exhaust isn't your problem; you have an electrical issue. Exhaust Manifold is probably worn/burnt mainly at port #4 nearest the dash end as that gets the hottest from downward pointing exhaust pipe connection. A new gasket will not fix that. STICKER SHOCK: You'll now need to do it all over again and invest in a new manifold, 7/16 Brass Hex Nuts, and new gasket kit. While you are doing that, pull the battery and take to a local shop to get tested under load on their machine. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring and a weak or dead battery is a big culprit. The 6V/POS GRN system on the 9N/2N uses a 1-Wire/3-Brush GEN (after s/n 12500) with the Cutout and a 12V setup has a 1 or 3 wire ALTERNATOR and NO Cutout. Ether way, both need the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit as well. Be sure you know the components and the differences. The FORD Front Mount Distributor is often misunderstood and if not rebuilt, timed, tested, and mounted correctly will destroy the unit at power up. Get The ESSENTIAL MANUALS and related documents if you don't already have them.

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:

No compression. Time for a valve job.
Thanks for the responses.

(quoted from post at 08:23:49 09/13/22) 6V or 12V??? Air leak around exhaust isn't your problem; you have an electrical issue.

Tim Daley(MI)

Click to expand...

great diagnosis, Tim - very helpful. now where should he go to narrow down the cause of no compression? i'm thinking he should start with the OEM ballast resistor, and if that's not it, i'd check the cutout next.