8N Stalling issue

Top K (VA)

New User
I have a 1949 8N thats suffering from a stalling issue. I use it to bush-hog my field (60 cutter). When I first start it up, it starts great - on first crank. It runs fine for the first 45 mins to an hour, than the fun begins. More often than not it stalls when the tractor is under an increased load - slight incline or thicker brush, although it has happened while going down a slight decline. The tractor will start to sputter - if I continue forward, it will cut out. If I stop cutting, it may recover, but once I start off again, it immediately stalls out. Once it stalls, I have to wait 20-30 minutes before it will start up again. One time when I was able to catch it before it cut out, I idled for a minute or two - I decreased the RPMs, then as soon as I moved the throttle back up (while sitting still), it cut out, just as if I had started cutting again. Once the issue starts, its inconsistent - it may run anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes before sputtering to a halt again. I dont feel like its a fuel line issue - if it was, I would expect it to occur all the time. I dont believe its overheating. I replaced the coolant and made sure my fan belt was tight. Im clueless what could be causing this - any ideas or suggestions?
 
Front Mount Distributor. Also, I negelected to mention that after stalling, it does struggle a bit to start up, but it usually does after a few tries - sputtering back to life.
 
You need to check if it is the ignition key. When it starts acting up bypass the ignition switch to see. After that do not rule out a fuel related issue. This tractor has three fuel filters. One in the tank, one in the sediment bowl and the third in the carb inlet. Have you cleaned these at all? Have you confirmed fuel flow out the bottom of the carb immediately after it shuts down on you?
 
I'm not sure how to bypass the ignition key - will have to research that one. I haven't checked my fuel filters lately. I have had a clogged filter at the Carb before, so I'm familiar with how the tractor
behaves under that condition - my current issue does not match that symptom, but it's easy to check, so I can do that. I have a screen installed in the sediment bowl - ran without it for a few years, but
added one again awhile back. I've never checked fuel flow at the bottom of the carb - I can check that. Again, I doubt fuel is the issue since it starts up after resting. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
45-60 minutes is about the time it takes for a coil to get hot and start to short out which is common on the 8N
 
Do you have a vented gasoline tank cap? The tank was manufactured with a built-in vent. It is on the top of the tank and not visible under the hood. Over the years, dust plugged many of these vents. When that happened, gasoline could not flow properly to the carb because it is a gravity flow. Ford released a vented gas cap that was, for a period of time free, when you turned in your original cap. BTDT.
 
Now that's something that makes sense! I was thinking if I took it in to the shop and told them the symptoms, I was afraid they wouldn't be able to diagnose it since it starts up fine, and only fails using awhile. Thanks for something concrete I can use!
 
Usually before posting about an issue, I conduct a search on the forum to see if the issue has been discussed before. I got lazy today and just posted without looking around. I now see that there are several posts similar to my issue - that being said, I'll spare you guys from having to re-hash an old issue. Thank you to everybody that responded - I appreciate your time!
 
(quoted from post at 12:35:12 08/29/22) 45-60 minutes is about the time it takes for a coil to get hot and start to short out which is common on the 8N

Exact same thing my 9N did when the coil was going. First started when working it hard w/rotary cutter in hot weather, plowing snow not a problem. It would start to sputter but recover if you took the load off and disengaged the PTO. Eventually it would just die and not restart until cooled off.

I keep a few jumper wires in the tool box. I jumper around the key switch and resistor, to get batt voltage to coil. Eliminates possible problems with switch or resistor. Sometimes that would get it start and run but not well. Batt voltage to the coil post with a jumper did same thing.

I did test for fuel flow at carb drain, that was fine.

At first I went through distributor, had not been done in a long time. New points rotor cap. Ran better but still died when got hot. Next replaced the coil. It was the coil, been running good 3 years now.

Coil quality is all over the place. The ones TSC got put back in the box. Instead paid 2X as much for an Echlin Part #: ECH IC670 from NAPA, this is a 6V coil. I just checked the price and they are $20 more than they were 3 years ago.
 
Top K , Make up a jumper wire 12-16 gauge about 12 inches long with a alligator clip on each end.Carry it and a 7/16 wrench with you to test next time it stops.#1 Quickly remove the drain plug in the carb bowl catch gas in a pint container ,the flow should fill it in 1-2 minutes.If the flow is slow,remove the gas cap,does the flow increase ?if so the vent is plugged,if no increase the screens are plugged. #2 jump ignition switch or bypass it by hooking to the battery post that goes to the starter and other end to the terminal on the OEM ballast resister wire that comes from the ignition switch.Try starting it up,If no start move clip to other post of ballast resister (the wire that goes to the coil) try starting again.If no start the coil is possibly getting hot and is defective.
 
The gas pick up tube is about the diameter of an 8 penny nail, as you go up and down an incline a small piece of floating debris can be sealing the intake intermittently, when it happened to me it was the wings of box elder bugs which had gotten in my gas can and I poured into the tank. If the coil doesn't fix it then bypass the gas tank with a small lawn tractor clean tank and see if it goes away. You will probably need to refill it at least once as a small tank goes pretty quick.
 

Just wanted to provide a closing status on my issue - sure enough, it was the Ignition Coil. Sure was nice being able to cut my field today without it stalling several times. Thanks to all that responded!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top