Data Plate Removal

net4home

Member
Hope someone can help me with this.

I have a Data Plate that I removed by removing the heads of the rivets with a chisel. Now that I have the Data Plate removed and just stubs where the rivets go, I've been trying to drill them out with no results except lots of broken 1/8" drill bits.

I've also tried a Dremel tool to get them out with no results too. at this point, I'm out of ideas to get them out so I can replace them with new ones once I have painted the area.

Does anyone out there have any better suggestions for me to try?

Thanks
-kevin
 
Those ''drive screws'' are HARD and it
would have been MUCH better to have eased
then out in a CCW direction with a sharp
chisel vs trying to drill out what's left
after rudely chopping them off. At this
point a ''workaround'' is to offset the
tag a little up down or sideways and
drill new holes in the cast iron,
abandoning the butchered remains in
place.
 

The data plate that was on there was very worn.

I have put those tips in the front of my repair manuals for reference.
 

As you can tell I'm new at this, but the education that I'm getting is priceless. I'll see what I can do and my last resort will be to off-set the data plate.

Thanks for your response
 
Just an FYI here.
In the vintage machinery world, name and
data plates are fairly common and are
usually attached with those drive screws.
The preferred method of removing them is a
set of nippers like these. They regrind the
jaws - without turning the metal brown or
blue and annealing them - so the cutting
edge is sharp and not recessed like these
are. Then you can get a bite on the screw
very close to the plate and turn it out.
These nippers are pretty well worn out but
I keep them in a drawer just for the day I
may need to regrind and use them for that.
I am very much NOT a fan of JB weld but in
your case I might use it to reattach the
data plate rather than offset or relocate
it. I think new data plates may be
available if you look for one.

cvphoto135257.png
 
I've restored Implement ID Tags and Data Plates using a steady hand and carefully applying Vaseline or an equivalent substance over the lettering and numbers then
spraying semi-gloss Black Enamel over the plate face. When paint dries simply wipe off the Vaseline and install plate. Now, you may end up doing more damage to the
battery tray with a Dremel or drill. OEM Rivets were 1/8 and either CAD or ZINC plated, Grade 8 most likely. A carbide drill would cut through the sawed off rivets but
you aren't going to drill a carbide tool by hand; you will break the tool if not careful and it slips. Both tool and workholding need to be solid, with no chance of
slipping or moving thus causing the carbide to chip or break. So, how desperate are you to get the old rivets out? A good machine shop can do it, on a Bridgeport with a
solid setup, but may cost you a small fortune for his time. Since you have new Data Plate, my advice is to take the heads off the old rivets, make sure the plate mounting
area is flush and no old rivets protrude, then GLUE the plate on the battery tray. Once dry, GLUE just the old heads in place to FAUX PAS (simulate) that they are riveted
on. You won't have to worry about taking them off ever again, right.

Tim Dale(MI)
 

Under the steering wheel right? I just ground them off and superglued the new one on .Not going for a concourse restoration!
 
(quoted from post at 04:10:13 09/09/22) Just an FYI here.
In the vintage machinery world, name and
data plates are fairly common and are
usually attached with those drive screws.
The preferred method of removing them is a
set of nippers like these. They regrind the
jaws - without turning the metal brown or
blue and annealing them - so the cutting
edge is sharp and not recessed like these
are. Then you can get a bite on the screw
very close to the plate and turn it out.
These nippers are pretty well worn out but
I keep them in a drawer just for the day I
may need to regrind and use them for that.
I am very much NOT a fan of JB weld but in
your case I might use it to reattach the
data plate rather than offset or relocate
it. I think new data plates may be
available if you look for one.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto135257.png>

Thanks I'm going to have to look for some of these nippers at some flee markets so I have a pair just in case my wife lets me do another tractor.
 

I've talked to a machine shop and they charge a $150 setup charge, but It wouldn't be the first time I have had to have something done because I goofed it up. Guess I could remove the upper steering housing and take it to them and see what they would charge to redrill these rivets out. I have to already remove the lower steering housing because someone else broke off one of the bolts and the battery box is right over it so I'm not able to access it.

The last (very very last) thing would be to glue it down.

I thought of a screw or bolt extractor but not sure that would work either. If anyone has a comment on that let me know.

Thanks for your reply. I'm learning., slowly but I'm learning.
 

Thank you this will be my last resort. I was hoping to do it right the first time, but that's not going so well so far...
 

Thanks, I've tried smaller ones, but the ones I have are just breaking. I figured 1/8 would take the rivet out on the first try, but if I have to I might have to try a smaller one first.
 
(quoted from post at 16:04:51 09/09/22)
Thanks, I've tried smaller ones, but the ones I have are just breaking. I figured 1/8 would take the rivet out on the first try, but if I have to I might have to try a smaller one first.

You will not drill them out with a HSS drill bit of any size. If you can keep it centered you might have better luck with a 1/8" solid carbide bit. Buy a couple - they are easy to break.

TOH
 

Congrats to you. At least you are trying to re-attach the data plate. I have an MF202 that I purchased with four little holes in the dash where the data plate was. It's such a pain because to get replacement parts for it, they often are listed by a serial number range. I would give anything to have that original data plate. :cry:
 
yes, 1/8 is a std size but carbide is not cheap...and, if you get a piece trapped in the drill hole, when the next tool hits it, will chip it our in a second...

Tim Daley(MI)
Mechanical Engineering/CNC Manufacturing & Machining, 35 Years, Retired
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:34 09/10/22) yes, 1/8 is a std size but carbide is not cheap...and, if you get a piece trapped in the drill hole, when the next tool hits it, will chip it our in a second...

Tim Daley(MI)
Mechanical Engineering/CNC Manufacturing & Machining, 35 Years, Retired

Made in USA 1/8" carbide drill bits are $4.83 each at MSC. If you break one off in a hole and can't get it out you are no worse off than when you started.

TOH

No particular credentials
No particular claims to fame
Retired
 
Type-U drive screws were probably used to install the data
plate. Most are hardened and after all these years most likely
not removable. Offset plate as someone mentioned.

cvphoto135380.jpg
 
"Guess I could remove the upper steering housing and take it to them and see what they would charge"

Look around for a machine shop with wire Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) capabilities.



This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 09/11/2022 at 08:38 am.
 
(quoted from post at 12:34:50 09/11/22)
Look around for a machine shop with wire Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) capabilities.

That will be a "sinker" EDM.

Pricey AND the steering column has to go to them. Really - if you can't drill them out ,just relocate the plate up or down 1/4". Grind flush and fill the two exposed holes and no one will be the wiser.

TOH
 
Pricey AND the steering column has to go to them.

TOH
Agreed. The shop would first have to draw up the sinker electrode and turn it in a lathe.
Then write the machine program.
Attach and dial in the steering column in the tank.
Then, run the program.
Do they have an EDM with a tank deep enough for the column?
 
Tank???
What tank??


They now make tankless, portable EDM 's that can go to the jobsite.
Broken tap/drill removal, creating holes and profiles, etc.

None of your requirements listed required.

This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 09/11/2022 at 10:57 am.
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:51 09/08/22) Hope someone can help me with this.

I have a Data Plate that I removed by removing the heads of the rivets with a chisel. Now that I have the Data Plate removed and just stubs where the rivets go, I've been trying to drill them out with no results except lots of broken 1/8" drill bits.

I've also tried a Dremel tool to get them out with no results too. at this point, I'm out of ideas to get them out so I can replace them with new ones once I have painted the area.

Does anyone out there have any better suggestions for me to try?

If this is a 8N tractor the plate is on the battery box side. If the box is off I just support it and hit the back side , they just pop out. If the box is still on the tractor I just grind them flush after removing the plate, then hit them with a small punch and push them out.
-kevin
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:21 09/11/22)
They now make tankless, portable EDM 's that can go to the jobsite.
Broken tap/drill removal, creating holes and profiles, etc.
None of your requirements listed required.
Thats GREAT! And I'm sure that this service is very, very inexpensive; right?
And they don't need a dimensioned electrode? One size fits all?
WOW!! Am I ever behind the times!
Guess all of that Charmilles wire and sinker training is down the drain.
 

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