Oil circulation/canister question

Good day all!

First post, here we go! For the abbreviated version scroll down to : ******START HERE

1950 8N. We got it started on Saturday for the 1st time in YEARS! I noticed no oil pressure even on a new gauge. I had already removed and cleaned the oil filter canister., along with the lines. It had about a 1/2 inch of sludge in the bottom so I assumed the oil pan would look similar at least. I replaced the cleaned canister with a new filter, tightened the lines and put about a third of a quart in with the new filter.

Back to the first start: Ran long enough to determine no Oil pressure, but idled on its own. Drained oil from crankcase and let it drip all night. It was pretty bad looking stuff with the back of the cap being full of sludge! When I look up into the pan, am I looking at the oil pickup? It was clean, good sign I think.

Today: Fresh oil, checked my lines to make sure I had not forgotten one, all good. Crank and start: No oil pressure. Engine sounds a lot better with fresh oil, just not seeing oil pressure. I cracked a couple of the fittings and saw oil on each side of the canister. On my engine, there is a brass T behind the exhaust manifold that splits off to the gauge. After a minute of running it had no oil. I left it off, restarted and suddenly had oil there.

******START HERE Now: 3pm Central time. I start engine and as oil pressure builds, my oil filter canister begins to hemorrhage oil! I have a new seal on the top. I even put a second seal on it and made sure the bolt was tight.

Where do I start? What is the oil circulation/route? As in high pressure/low pressure sides.

What does the governor do as far as motor oil?

John B.
Nashville, TN
1950 8N

Oil pressure relief valve shall be check in the morning.

(quoted from post at 13:16:04 08/27/22) Good day all!

First post, here we go! For the abbreviated version scroll down to : ******START HERE

1950 8N. We got it started on Saturday for the 1st time in YEARS! I noticed no oil pressure even on a new gauge. I had already removed and cleaned the oil filter canister., along with the lines. It had about a 1/2 inch of sludge in the bottom so I assumed the oil pan would look similar at least. I replaced the cleaned canister with a new filter, tightened the lines and put about a third of a quart in with the new filter.

Back to the first start: Ran long enough to determine no Oil pressure, but idled on its own. Drained oil from crankcase and let it drip all night. It was pretty bad looking stuff with the back of the cap being full of sludge! When I look up into the pan, am I looking at the oil pickup? It was clean, good sign I think.

Today: Fresh oil, checked my lines to make sure I had not forgotten one, all good. Crank and start: No oil pressure. Engine sounds a lot better with fresh oil, just not seeing oil pressure. I cracked a couple of the fittings and saw oil on each side of the canister. On my engine, there is a brass T behind the exhaust manifold that splits off to the gauge. After a minute of running it had no oil. I left it off, restarted and suddenly had oil there.

******START HERE Now: 3pm Central time. I start engine and as oil pressure builds, my oil filter canister begins to hemorrhage oil! I have a new seal on the top. I even put a second seal on it and made sure the bolt was tight.

Where do I start? What is the oil circulation/route? As in high pressure/low pressure sides.

What does the governor do as far as motor oil?

John B.
Nashville, TN
1950 8N

Click to expand...

HiYa USA Man-
Is one filter better than others? I dont know, how does one gage effectiveness of an oil filter? There seem to be several suppliers, and Ive used most of them with no issues whatsoever. The only issues I know of are some dont have the little pull ring on top to remove the unit and some lack gaskets. The FRAM CP is one of those but Ive seen others. FRAM was the OEM supplier to FORD. Ever read the oil filter decal? The FRAM CP-3 filter does have the pull ring. Years ago suppliers would include the large rubber flat gasket that goes underneath the lid AND included the fiber washer (01A-6749) that is needed under the lid fastening bolt. Ive tried steel, plastic, copper and paper gasket material under the lid to seal and none have worked they all leaked and then I found the OEM washer was available, FORD p/n 01A-18675 and Ford OEM p/n 01A-6749. nnalert sells and CNH as well. Flushing the Oil Filter Canister is SOP for the N-tractor PM schedule. There is an NPT drain plug on the bottom and I use Mineral Spirits to clean and drain canister with. Mineral Spirits is petroleum based and will not damage any internal engine parts or systems. It is the same stuff as what all the snake-oil products use in their products. When you flush system, try using your compressed air set to 50-80 PSI max and disconnect the Gauge to blow thru the line. Also hit the Gauge too. Mineral Spirits will help thin out any crud and plugs in the line. Always use correct OEM NPT fittings and lines. DO NOT USE: Copper, plastic, nylon, aluminum, or anything other than the 1/8-NPT, steel lines. They make exact as original pre-bent lines. In 1943, FORD added an oil line to the Governor for added lubrication. When owners brought their tractors in to a dealer for service, they were advised to add the oil line to their 9N or 2N that didnt have on. Finish your oil change by slipping the new filter on the center tube flush to bottom. Pour a small amount, about 1/8 quart, of clean, fresh new oil in canister. With the new large flat rubber gasket/seal for the lid, swipe a clean finger with new oil and cover the seal with oil, the place it under the lid. Also swipe a tad of new oil on the 01A-6749 seal. Slide cover lid seal around the lid groove then fasten the lid with center bolt using the new 01A-6749 gasket/washer, finger tight. Ensure lid is properly set then tighten with your 11/16 Box Wrench. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! A big mistake often made when this lid leaks is to crank down on the clamp bolt. This may warp the lid and cause more damage and leaking. The next steps are vital to the oil change. Be certain to first reinstall the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Swipe new oil around the plug gasket and oil pan seat. Use a new cork or paper gasket; I dont like the new rubber ones. Oil Capacity is 6 quarts. NEVER ADD all 6 at once. Only add 2 quarts at first to test system thru the oil fill tube on LH side of engine. TIME TO TEST: Start engine and observe the oil system for signs of leaking, starting with the canister lid and seal. Look behind the dash at the Oil Pressure Gauge, the governor oil line, and the canister lines and drain plug for signs of lines or fitting leaks. Watch Gauge to see if oil pressure comes up a bit. Having just 2 quarts of oil in the engine wont hurt anything, you arent going to run it very long and not under any load. Once evidence shows no leaking issues, shut down engine and begin filing with new oil, one quart at a time. Let tractor set idle for 10-20 minutes then check oil level with the dipstick. Add as needed, checking level as you go, but do not simply just pour all 6 quarts in as it may result in an overfill issue. Oil Pressure is about 25 PSI at start up but will slowly drop as engine warms up. NOTE: A worn engine will not sustain good oil pressure and then it is time for a complete engine and system rebuild. After youve completed your oil change, monitor oil level each time you go to fire up the tractor. With a cold, idle engine, you will get a good reading. If a tad low as needed.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR LUBRICATION GALLEY:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR OIL FILTERS & CANISTER LID WASHER:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR OIL FILTER HOUSING LID 01A-6749 WASHER:

Tim Daley(MI)

Sounds like you have stepped thru this correctly. Please confirm if your oil pressure gauge is showing pressure and how much. If you have oil leaking out of your canister it is telling me you have oil pressure. If you have none coming out of the T fitting then does not sound good. Sometimes getting the canister to seal after oil change can be tricky. Once sealed it is good. There is a large seal\oring that fits under the cover and a smaller round gasket that goes under the bolt. You need to make sure to remove larger old one and put in the new one. The one under the bolt can be reused. Hold down the cover lightly and rotate cover a little making sure it is seated then tighten down the bolt. If you have pressure not sure you need to remove the PRV. You would do this to prime the pump if you still have no pressure. Photo shows large gasket that should have come with filter and examples of a couple of the smaller ones that go under the bolt head.

Thank you Abbby. The large seal that came with my new filter was a tad small. I ended up using the very old seal AND the new seal. I had left off the one for the bolt so I put a copper crush washer under that. I also drained the 'new' oil and replaced it with only 3 quarts minding things very closely. No hemorrhage, but low oil.

How long are the 8N's dipsticks?

How close to the bottom of the pan should it be?

When I had the drain plug out I put my finger under the end of the dipstick and realized I have almost half an inch in clearance. Could I have overfilled?

JB

An oil change with filter is about 6 quarts

(quoted from post at 08:38:35 08/28/22) Thank you Abbby. The large seal that came with my new filter was a tad small. I ended up using the very old seal AND the new seal. I had left off the one for the bolt so I put a copper crush washer under that. I also drained the 'new' oil and replaced it with only 3 quarts minding things very closely. No hemorrhage, but low oil.

How long are the 8N's dipsticks?

How close to the bottom of the pan should it be?

When I had the drain plug out I put my finger under the end of the dipstick and realized I have almost half an inch in clearance. Could I have overfilled?

JB

Click to expand...

perator's Manual, "5 qts plus filter absorption", so I say that the dip stick length should be such as to read FULL with the specified quantity installed.

I did read that in my service manual and had the correct level on the dipstick after adding the oil. Later today (probably later this week) we will reconvene with notes in hand.

I will start with a clean lid and canister top and look for the proper gadget, one that fits the lid! Also cleaning both surfaces with a green scuff pad, I do see some light corrosion on the canister top.

Thank you everyone and have a great week!

JB

(quoted from post at 05:38:35 08/28/22) Thank you Abbby. The large seal that came with my new filter was a tad small. I ended up using the very old seal AND the new seal. I had left off the one for the bolt so I put a copper crush washer under that. I also drained the 'new' oil and replaced it with only 3 quarts minding things very closely. No hemorrhage, but low oil.

How long are the 8N's dipsticks?

How close to the bottom of the pan should it be?

When I had the drain plug out I put my finger under the end of the dipstick and realized I have almost half an inch in clearance. Could I have overfilled?

JB

Click to expand...

When I change the oil, I put as much in the canister as I can before putting the cover on, then 5 qts in the oil filler. Run it a few minutes, let sit a bit, then add as needed to full on dipstick.

Here is the oil circulation route.