2n-10000-C generator rebuild wrignt up needed

Im looking for a good wrightup for the 1 wire 3 Brush generator. Iv been looking and cant seem to find one. I know its not quite right for a 41 but i feel its a better generator.

Before someone says if it aint broke dont fix it mines definatly broke. Its been molested by someon real bad in the past and someone cranked the case assembly bolts so tight they cracked the brush plate and bent to so the thrid brush cant be adjusted (my guess impct gun???) also lookis like they tryed to salder in speaker wire to hold brushes in.

So i bought matching a generator for $25 from ebay that some one cut the mounting bracket off but has a nice bruch cover.

I figure between the two botched molested ones i can make one good one.

Before any one tells me to go 12v im a 6v guy have a 28 model A ford iv driven for ten years and 4 years of that as my dialy driver winter and summer. Never let me down never failed to start.

Also if someone who knows can give me a good sorce for the parts im looking on line and i see armature bushings and bearings for 9n but im not sure if they are the same for all 9,2, 8 N tractos. And i see brushes but i know different generators revisions used a couple differnet sizes (i belive)

Also all the brushes i see on line look like soild carbon. I know the brushes in my model A generator are copper graphite composit. Same with the 9N starters

Did these Generators also have copper graphite brushes origonaly or were they carbon?

Thanks

Derek G.

For used parts, try www.farmlandtractor.com
For starter or generator repair try: https://www.walzsrebuilt.com/

You might want to have some of the work done by an electric motor shop.

The commutator on the armature should get turned so the new brushes will last, and they can also check it with a growler.

If you have access to a good lathe you might be able to turn the commutator yourself. Also want to clean the insulating spacers between the copper segments on the commutator.

A good video on doing that.


[quote](reply to post at 20:19:44 0... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHjGc_qjNcE

Site won't let me fix the above post/multiple post, sorry.

Here is a link to using a growler to test an armature

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9fbdVhMsgs

If you are lucky enough to live near a small Town/City that has a stater/generator shop,you can take it to them to get repaired. I live about ten miles from a small City that has two such shops,and have had several alternators and the generator on my 9n. Mine still works after almost 20 years.

Hiya Woody-
Well, all the ESSENTIAL MANUALS have drawings and exploded views are in a few as well as all the MPC's. What do you need? I have an OEM 2N-10000-C GEN all rebuilt to spec including the belt tensioning device for sale. Email is open.


FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N, AFTER S/N 12500, OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:

FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT USED AFTER S/N 12,500 TO S/N 258504 ON 9N & 2N MODELS ONLY:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

EXTERNAL IN-LINE 1-OHM CERAMIC RESISTOR REQUIRED WITH THE FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHEN USING A 6-VOLT COIL:

WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR; OEM 9N & 2N ELECTRICAL SETUP:

FORD 9N/2N WIRING 6V & 12V:


FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:


Tim Daley(MI)

I want to thank all of you for your replys. I actualy do have a full mechine shop in my mill i use to rebuild my mechinery and do my restoration projects.

I had just rebuilt my starter i just like having a wright up to refrance to when i do these thing incase theirs somthing im not thinking about.

Heres were im at progress wise;

Everything was dissassembled and all the cast iron stuff was stripped and phosporic acid etched to remove any microscopic rust in the metal poors. Then stripped to eleiminate any addhesion issues with epoxy primer. The they were epoxy primed.

I turned down the comutater .008 to level out the brush cupping and get a true flat surface. The resto of the armiture was cleaned and polished.

I stripped the feilds of their cloth insulation cleaned with eldctrincs cleaner and then dipped in denatured alchaol to get nay remaining oils off the windings.

I injected the coils were their was insulator damage with epoxy so isolate and insulate the windings with the chiped porcolin araas. I replaced sniped the bridge wire with its crumbing insolation and saldered in a new 10ga bride wire between the orth and south coils anso repalced the wire to the third brush

I then reaped the fields infriction tape.

The brush plate was verry badly corroded from being sumerged for many years imdegreesed and hand cleanded the brush plate between intermintant vinagar / ammonia / don dish soap boil on stove much to my wifes dismay. Hahaha
Bush holders receved same treatment all got fine soft brass wire briuhs on bench grinder then polish on buffer.
Alll brush wires are repalced with 12ga poly lined fabric wraped wires. As none of my wires had insolation left i chose red for stud, black for ground, yellow from field to third brush.

The last thing i did was replace the 8-32 steel stuf with a 1/4 -20 solid copper stud i mechined and mechined matching delrin insulators for it. The last thing i did was prdrill a hole in back side of stud so i can attached the red brush wire to it with a heavy copper ring terminal with a capper poprivit with the brass mandral.

Copper poo rivits come in tomorow along with new wool oil wick.

I plan to sand back primer from all areas were the mounthing plate meet the barrol and were the barrol meets the brish plate. Then each mounthing surface coated with conductive copper anti seize. To alow ground contact and prevent rust.

Then all peices will be re-primed and pained as one bolted together unit

(assembed my starter the same way and to the block to alow fill ground flow with no resistance)

Heres some pictures