continuation 8n won't start

Tractor still won't start
1. I have all the manuals [repair and parts books] multimeter, spark tester
2. I have checked all connections-battery, solenoid, starter, generator, coil, distributor
3. I have checked voltage on all parts-6.46 volts across the board
4. I have checked spark on all plugs- very good blue spark
5. I do have fuel in the tank
6. I checked fuel flow -line to carb and pulled plug at bottom of carb. good flow.
Engine cranks and sometimes acts like it wants to start but doesn't. It started just fine but after letting it
set for weeks it will not start!
 
Pull the plugs , put a teaspoon of gas in each hole & put in a set of new plugs. Let us know what happens when you try to start it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:12:48 08/22/22) Pull the plugs , put a teaspoon of gas in each hole & put in a set of new plugs. Let us know what happens when you try to start it.

I did just put in new plugs this morning. The old set was pretty dirty. I will try 1 teaspoon of gas
 
I put in new plugs this morning. I pulled them and put a teaspoon of gas in the holes still nothing. Acts like it wants to but still doesn't
 
Putting raw gas in the engine does nothing except to wash the walls and reduce compression. And will likely evaporate before you can get the plugs back in anyway.

Use carb cleaner or starting fluid directly in the carb throat. Gently......

For those of us who missed your first post, front or side distributor?
75 Tips
 
HiYa Ben-
Do you have an Early 8N with the Front Mount Distributor or the later 8N with the Angle (Side) Mount Distributor? Are you fouling plugs? Is your Generator the 3-Wire/3-Brush (late early and side units used 2 Brushes) but both need fan belt tension set, and the correct Voltage Regulator, plus GEN must be polarized, but, that is not the likely the problem. We can assume the Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve is Open 2 Full Turns, right...and the Ignition Key is turned ON ... had to ask...sometimes it is the simple things that bite us in the butt.

SPECS:
Distributor Breaker Points - Front Mount = .015 - .017 / Side Mount = .024 - .026
Spark Plug: 14mm Champion H10 (now H12) or AUTO-LITE 437; Gap = .025 - .028
Firing Order = 1, 2, 4, 3 CCW

Sometimes with the front mount plug, wires #3 and #4 get crossed/switched up.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
ok. It has the side mount distributor. I polarized the generator. It started right up but it seems to be pretty hot. Do you need to polarize the generator anytime you disconnect or change batteries? Second question what do you need to do to change to negative ground? Lastly Now the hydraulics aren't working. They did before.
 
Could you have a vacuum leak? It wouldnt pull gas up and into the engine if it did. If possible, I would pull it and see if it would start.
 
Nope. And how did you do it? There is a right way and a wrong way if using the VR. Polarizing GEN should be done automatically when the unit was rebuilt and tested. NO, you don't need to switch to a NEG GRN. Why? If you switch out polarity on the battery then yes polarizing to that system is needed. Polarizing won't hurt anything when done right, can do a hundred times a day, but again, polarizing your GEN is not your problem. Hydraulic System does not use electronics. You have a different problem but stay with one problem at a time.

TPD
 

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