Oil filter conversion

Can someone who has installed this oil filter conversion. Can you explain to me what is involved with oil lines? Can original oil lines be used or must they be replaced? Seems replacing can be tricky especially for the front one.

The oil lines in the pic appear to be copper, meaning the oem lines have been replaced. Copper is a very poor choice.

I've never had a problem w/ the wet filter; they are readily available & inexpensive. (see tip # 64 for 15 different part numbers).


It's the same filter used on some Porsche & Mercedes engines. Wet/cartridge style filters are now used in majority of heavy duty diesel equipment
(Caterpillar, Detroit, Perkins, Cummins, etc.) If they are good enough for the most powerful diesel engines on the market, they are more than good enough
for a 23 hp N tractor
.
I honestly do not see a need to replace a superior filter w/ one of lesser quality just because it drips oil when you change it.


If you decide to do this, make 100% what you get will work on the N tractor. This isn't a car or truck. The adapter should have a 1/16 (.062) diameter
orifice built in to prevent the filter from robbing more than its fair share of oil from the rest of the system and maintaining oil pressure.


What I do is remove the canister from the tractor on the very first oil change & give it a good cleaning. You'd be surprised at the tar in the bottom of
those things.


And, if the canister does not have a drain plug (and 8N's made after s/n 269,530 do not) I buy a new canister .
75 Tips

^^^^ what he said.

When I got my N it had been neglected. Canister had drain, but bottom had so much crap it barely drained. After getting most of the crud out with paper towels I flushed it out with diesel fuel. Never been any crud at the bottom since.

IMHO, just don't do it.



This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 08/17/2022 at 08:54 am.

(quoted from post at 11:50:07 08/17/22) ^^^^ what he said.

When I got my N it had been neglected. Canister had drain, but bottom had so much crap it barely drained. After getting most of the crud out with paper towels I flushed it out with diesel fuel. Never been any crud at the bottom since.

IMHO, just don't do it.



This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 08/17/2022 at 08:54 am.

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ome on guys.....the conversion gets "UP" from a $15 filter to a $25 filter! :roll:

(quoted from post at 07:40:54 08/17/22) Can someone who has installed this oil filter conversion. Can you explain to me what is involved with oil lines? Can original oil lines be used or must they be replaced? Seems replacing can be tricky especially for the front one.

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You will need to replace the lines with custom made ones. Guy should actually offer them as part of the conversion. Premade brake line from your local auto supply and bend to fit. Or you could go Full Monty and use stainless steel braided hose for the street rod look - readily available on eBay.

Debating canister versus spin on is like arguing chocolate versus strawberry ice cream. Its a matter of preference. I have 3 modern BMWs that use canister filters. Far better design and easier to service than the 8N canister but still a PITA. I am not a fan.

Just my $ .02

TOH

Seems like there are folks who cannot simply answer a question or leave it alone. They need to inject their own opinions. People come to this site looking for help\answers and in many cases get opinions that end up taking the thread down a rabbit hole.

(quoted from post at 13:26:53 08/17/22) Seems like there are folks who cannot simply answer a question or leave it alone. They need to inject their own opinions. People come to this site looking for helpanswers and in many cases get opinions that end up taking the thread down a rabbit hole.

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ou got that right!

For what it is worth, I have never had a problem changing the original filter. To make things easier, I have found a great seal for the top bolt on the lid. It works like a charm and easy to use. It is a
Napa part # 704-1093. It is for some GM use, but the guy at NAPA hunted around and came up with this for me.

Thanks for the info.

Thats where I normally have a leak problem. I will give this a try. Just checking it goes on the outside under the bolt head?

(quoted from post at 02:47:33 08/19/22)
Thanks for the info.

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orry for the delay. Yes it goes between the top of the canister lid and the bolt that screws to tighten the lid. This is a steel washer between two soft (rubber?) washers The rubber washers compress and you have a neat looking cap

This is Great info. I live close to a Napa Warehouse.
So, this is on my list

New oxford 2N Thanks for that part number. My 8N has a copper washer on it now that has been tightened so many times it's smashed flat.