NORM!!!
What's shakin'? First, you do know that YTMAG does not make parts, right? They simply provide part services from various suppliers but most all parts are made in the
land of the Chi-Comms now so it doesn't really matter. Newbie (and some oldies too) mistake #3 is to start buying new parts and replacing without performing logical
root cause problem solving methods. ALL FORD major components were designed to be rebuilt over and over. It should always be your first choice and leave the cheap
Cheena made crap on the shelf in Beijing. There is no testing/QC in Cheena so if you just slapped on the new one out of the box, no surprises it fails. Did you
perform the Fuel Flow Test? Did you rebuild your carb if it did not pass the Fuel Flow Test? Buying a whole new Sediment Bulb Assembly is not needed either. The only
wear part in the assembly is the APN-9194 Valve Stem. It is a $6 part at a reliable supplier. The rubber seal, some cheap ones use vinyl, in it wears out, gets chewed
up from wear and tear, and thus will cause leaks. Constant removing and reinstalling the Bulb unit puts you at risk to booger up the 1/4 NPT threads on the Fuel Tank
inlet port. Be advised some new, cheap, aftermarket Bulbs have Metric, or other non OEM threads and will do permanent damage to your tank. A good removal and cleaning
of the tank will do wonders. Coat inside with a sealant like POR-15 or equivalent. Get a dab of E-SEAL GASOILA to seal the Bulb and leave it alone from there on. Avoid
Teflon Tape, Stud Puckey, Plumbers Goop, tin foil, or other quick-fix Band-Aid methods. You don't want to be guessing if fuel will leak or not do you?
In addition, brake and fuel lines use a special thread size; 7/16-24 UNS. Many fellas muck them up by using the wrong tap or thread die to fix a part with and all it
does is cross thread with the wrong pitch which in turn causes leaks. Always start the fittings by hand so you can get the 'feel' whether they are fastening correctly.
Once you cross-thread a component, it is almost impossible to correct. All the fuel line parts on the Bulb, the fuel line compression fittings, and the Carb brass fuel
inlet elbow use this thread. The standard steel line uses steel compression fittings, and OEM exact-as-original pre-bet to specs lines are sold today. Get and use
one. Avoid copper, nylon, plastic, rubber, aluminum, or any other type of fuel line material. Always use a 7/6 Flare Nut Wrench to do the final tightening and do not
overtighten. Never use pliers, channel locks, vise grips, or the wrong size wrench to work with the fittings. Use new OEM style cork gaskets. Be sure to remove any
old gasket material from the Bulb and the glass jar when R&Rg the Bulb. OEM Bulb Assembly uses three screens in the fuel system. Any extra fuel filters are not
needed, a waste of time IMHO, and your call how you want to spend your money. I am not a proponent of adding extra items to a system that already works fine as is an
only puts it in that way and open to failing. Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb,
and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line
connects to. The brass elbow inlet has an attached screen that is often overlooked when cleaning the Bulb screens. It should be included in your SOP & PM schedule. SEE
PICTURES.
The FORD TRACTOR Fuel Tank has a dome on the top of it with a small 1/8 diameter hole that is built-in baffled ventilation system. It gets plugged and often is why
you lose your vacuum seal and have fuel flow issues. It wasn't the best designed feature on the tractor because to get to the vent orifice, you need to remove the tank
and to remove the tank you need to remove the hood and all else that comes on the hood like headlights, doglegs, lighting wiring, and grille. That is why many farmers
neglected to clean the vent. Not that they didn't know it had to be done but because of the time consuming tedious job involved. Actual time to blow out the vent
orifice might only be a minute but prep time is hours. For anyone that will do this job, I highly advise you first disconnect and remove the battery from the tractor
for safety reasons and have an assistant help you. I had a gentleman call me once for help who was attempting to pull his hood off alone and the hood caught on the
battery and shorted out some wires. That made for more work and more expenses as new wiring and a new ignition switch had to be replaced.
The Valve Stem, p/n APN-9194, comes with a new knurled Valve Control Knob, 8-32 screw, and #8 star lockwasher. I always put a dab of Loctite on the screw to ensure it
never comes off the assembly in the field. You never need to take it off either until the next valve stem replacement. The Valve Stem Control Knobs never used to fall
off but since cheap aftermarket ones began appearing 50 years ago, some did fall off in the field. You dont realize it until you get back to barn at the end of the
day. Then if you dont have spare to use, have to shut off the fuel with a small crescent wrench. The Control Knob is marked MAIN 2 TURNS OPEN and RESERVE FULL
with a directional arrow around it to indicate correct operation. Always shut off the Valve completely when stopping the engine and parking tractor for the night. If
left open, sometimes the carb will flood and next time you try to start up, it may be a bit hard. I rebuild carbs in my sleep; have done over 350 in my lifetime. I
will rebuild yours if you send me your OEM Marvel-Schebler unit. My Email is open.
FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:
FORD TRACTOR FUEL SEDIMENT BULB ASSEMBLY:
SEDIMENT BULB VALVE STEM :
E-SEAL BY GASOILA THREAD SEALING COMPOUND:
The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.
FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)