6v 8n - cant get it to turn over

Hello all. Picked up an 8n that i was told was in better shape than it is. ;)

I'm not able to get it to turn over. I replaced the battery and can get the solenoid to click once upon initial press of the starter button. then no noise, no starter spin. I suspected the starter was toast (banged up on the side pretty good from hammer strikes.) I replaced the starter. Same exact behavior. I verified the solenoid providing power at the starter side, and cleaned the brass connector.

Engine does not appear seized as i can see the fan spinning when i move it in gear.

Any thoughts of what to check? I'm ready to throw $300 at it to bump it up to 12v
 

Make sure all your wire connections are clean, especially the battery connections/ground.

[b:5ffa1191e7][u:5ffa1191e7]Make sure tractor is not in gear.[/u:5ffa1191e7][/b:5ffa1191e7] Then use a jumper cable to go from battery straight to starter. You can also use the jumper cables to make an additional ground for the battery. I'm not sure if your tractor is set up + or - ground?

If it turns the starter is OK and engine is free. Then you need to work back from starter to find electric problem.

I'd keep it 6V[/u]
 
Poor connection some place be it at the ground or battery or the solenoid or even bad battery cables. The battery cables also need to be 0 or 00 is size or they will not work well of for very long
 
Appreciate the response. everything looks replaced, and i see no issue of corrosion. Basic continuity and voltage readings show voltage where expected. Maybe its an amperage issue. The cables look like 8 gauge to me, which would work for 12v... but could be an issue with 6v
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:22 08/16/22) Appreciate the response. everything looks replaced, and i see no issue of corrosion. Basic continuity and voltage readings show voltage where expected. Maybe its an amperage issue. The cables look like 8 gauge to me, which would work for 12v... but could be an issue with 6v
hat size issue would not explain it doing NOTHING. Measure voltage at starter motor terminal while holding start button down. How much?
 
You'd be wise to find out why it won't start on 6v before you invest $300 and find out it won't start on 12v either.

The very first thing you need to confirm is the EXACT voltage at both the battery AND solenoid. At 6.35 volts, your battery is fully charged. At 5.9v. it's dead.

Next, see tip # 41. 12v small cables will not work well on 6v.
75 Tips
 
Do you have a voltmeter? If so measure voltage at the battery then see what it reads when the solenoid clicks. If it's still 6v measure at the starter terminal and see what you have.
 
(quoted from post at he right 12:06:48 08/16/22) interesting on the voltage! Did not realize that! Time to upgrade the wiring
ot the right time to "upgrade the wiring", as you have not found the problem yet.
 
It's a weak or dead battery most likely. Take it to a trusty shop and have it tested under load on their special battery tester machine. Specific Gravity. Hydrometer if you have one. $5 on the counter at your auto parts store. When you hit the neutral safety start pushbutton and the solenoid just click click clicks, that is the sure sign your battery is dead. If bad, get new GRP 1 6V AG or GRP 25 or 35 12V. Buy good brand, EXIDE/INTERSTATE/DURACELL/DEKA typical, and avoid low budget, bargain house brands. Those usually have poor lifespans. Then invest in a good float charger like the DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) to keep it in full charge when not in use. $30 on average.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
Replaced the wires from 8-10 gauge with 1/0. She spun!

Now i need to work on the carb. Looks like the needle valve isnt functioning as fuel pours out when i crank. I'll pull that apart next.

Thanks all
 
Doubtful wire gauge was the true root cause. You probably bumped a loose connection or something similar. OEM Starter Motor Solenoid used 12, 16, 18 GA wire sizes. Battery Cables matter though, is that what you meant? 6V needs heavier, thick as your thumb, battery cables than a 12V system. Is your Needle and Valve Seat the OEM style or are you using the newer, 3-PC one sold nowadays that has the extra clip hook? If you don't get that clip assembled correctly to the float pin, it will not work. Did you also put the new gasket in the seat first? It usually comes with the new seat & valve and can be reddish in color. New style is also made with the Viton tip as well. The jury still out on that one. Why the change, why an extra part? You can get the original old style solid brass needle in certain carb kits like the TISCO C546B without the Viton tip. Be sure to use a wide blade tool to remove and install the seat. A standard screwdriver will usually booger up the slot. I use an old Craftsman Chisel and it works perfectly. I also use a deep well 6-PT socket and drive handle to install the Main Jet. It too has a gasket. Yes, those are old guitar strings. I use them for chasing the fine orifices in the carb and never use drills or reamers. Finally, if you don't have the float level set right and/or get the Venturi installed upside down, either one can cause you to flood the carb.

FORD TRACTOR/MARVEL-SCHEBLER CARB NEEDLE & VALVE SEAT ASSEMBLY; OEM 2-PC STYLE:
3krZSx6l.jpg

FORD TRACTOR/MARVEL-SCHEBLER CARB NEEDLE & VALVE SEAT ASSEMBLY; NEW 3-PC STYLE:
YP575Shl.jpg

TISCO CARB KIT FOR FORD N-SERIES TRACTORS; P/N CV546V:
50nBgW2l.jpg

MY M/S CARB REBUILD TOOLS:
Wq4KiSPl.jpg




Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 15:23:53 08/18/22) Replaced the wires from 8-10 gauge with 1/0. She spun!

Now i need to work on the carb. Looks like the needle valve isnt functioning as fuel pours out when i crank. I'll pull that apart next.

Thanks all

As Tim said, the gauge of the wires might not have been the problem. Just the fact that you used new wire might have done the job. Sometimes you just can't see a bad connection with your eyes. A connection can look very clean and still not work. Any time my tractors don't turn over, I remove each connection and clean it till it shines. That always works. Glad you got it fixed.
 

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