Ford 2N ballast resister question

I am trying to help get a 2N Ford running. As far as the wiring goes it appears to be original and not modified per Jmors diagram. It will almost always start cold but after running a few minutes and shutting it off it cranks and will not fire- no spark. I put a volt meter on the coil terminal and only get 2 volts with the key on. I put a jumper wire from the battery to the coil terminal and when they start cranking it over as soon as I touch the jumper wire to the battery it starts immediately and stays running. If you shut it off it will not start until you touch the jumper wire to the battery again My question is do the ballast resisters get weak and what voltage should you get out of a warm ballast resister? Thanks in advance!
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:08 08/13/22) Everything appears to be original on this tractor. Nothing
appears to have been replaced or hacked.
hose are just a special resistive wire wound on a core & very unlikely to change value with time or wear out, however, the connections have been known to rust and alter the overall resistance of the assembly. Best way to do overall test of resistor, coil & connections is to measure current (points closed of course). Then if too low, start tracking all connections, switch, wires, etc to find the weak spot.
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Even this resistor (core broken, wire still intact) still works & measured 0.3 cold & 1.3 Ohms red hot, after I crimped strips on ends for electrical connections..
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Thanks for the reply! The tractor belongs to a historical group that I recently joined. It has given them fits as it usually starts but will not restart warm. I am trying to help out. They meet once a week so it will be next week before I can work on it. I will update when I get a chance to work on it. Thanks again!
 
Here is an update on this 2N project. We checked all the wiring and found a lot of rust and corrosion on the ballast resister and the wires to it. We replaced the resister and cleaned up all the wiring connections, battery connections and starter mounting area. That got us good current to the coil, a little faster spinning with the starter and cold starting was pretty good but it still would not start hot. We replaced the coil which looked like it was original to the tractor and put in a new set of NGK 3112 spark plugs and now it runs and starts like it should hot or cold! The 2N had been donated to the historical society years ago and had always been a problem getting it running and keeping it running.
 

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