9N no spark

Got a 9N 42, EI, 12V where I'm not getting spark, just wondering what's first checks for me to do to get it running again. It did seem during winter (here in Michigan) that the tractor seemed to lag, maybe a a timing issue, but guess I'll go with the no spark, no run issue for now.

(quoted from post at 18:52:13 06/12/22) Got a 9N 42, EI, 12V where I'm not getting spark, just wondering what's first checks for me to do to get it running again. It did seem during winter (here in Michigan) that the tractor seemed to lag, maybe a a timing issue, but guess I'll go with the no spark, no run issue for now.

Click to expand...

Checking it, with it disassembled, at times I had battery voltage, other times I had almost none. As I rotated the distributor, the voltage did not seem to change, pending the starting location of the distributor the voltage stayed where it was with I started it at. Sounds to me I got a failure, if I'm picking up what you're throwing down. So either replace my EI or go back to points? What's the consensus out there?

" What's the consensus out there?"
Not sure of consensus, but here's my vote:
Throw all of the 12 volt conversion mistake in the recycling bin and set back up as original.
Your tractor will not and cannot run any better than bone stock.
Read back through years of this forum and you will find that about 90% of start / run problems are 12V conversions.

[i:654c4848f0]'Throw all of the 12 volt conversion
mistake in the recycling bin and set back
up as original.'[/i:654c4848f0]

Reminds me of the old addage- A lie oft
repeated becomes the truth.'
You have been here long enough to know
there are numerous advantages to 12V.
Whether or not you choose to acknowledge
that fact is immaterial.

[i:654c4848f0]Read back through years of this forum
and you will find that about 90% of start /
run problems are 12V conversions.[/i:654c4848f0]

Another falacy...
A lot of posts are about electrical
problems.
Many guys don't understand electrics.
So when there is a issue with their tractor
they think a 12v conversion or EI will
magically solve the problem.
Only after they've thrown a bunch of money
at it and it still doesn't work do they
come here and Bruce and Jmor patiently
teach them what they SHOULD have done in
the first place. But by then - at least to
you - it has become a 12V/EI problem.

I grew up with cars that all had points and condensers and my buddies and I were very comfortable "Tuning up" those old cars. Although I do embrace modern electronics in most things I just can't get on board with the EI on my 8N. If you have the manuals setting the points and timing is relatively easy on these machines.

(quoted from post at 21:40:52 06/12/22)
Checking it, with it disassembled, at times I had battery voltage, other times I had almost none. As I rotated the distributor, the voltage did not seem to change, pending the starting location of the distributor the voltage stayed where it was with I started it at. Sounds to me I got a failure, if I'm picking up what you're throwing down. So either replace my EI or go back to points? What's the consensus out there?

Click to expand...

espite all the words, you didn't say, "it passed" or "it failed" the Pertronix test that I provided for you?

Sorry about that - Guess I failed #5, Passed #6 (since voltage was either High or low, not changing pending the location when I started it). I think it might have really went bad when I left the battery on
for sometime (I know I was bad, since I violated Bruce's #38th tip).

I understand this is under warranty.

I did buy a distributor asm off amazon for my 2N. If I get time, I might try that for sometime... Too much going on with work, not on the fire end (storms coming tonight, then 90+ heat later - not too often
in MI).

" I think it might have really went bad when I left the battery on
for sometime " That will kill them.. Pertronix does make a model with some protection from that, I believe, Ignitor II

(quoted from post at 18:40:52 06/12/22)
So either replace my EI or go back to points? What's the consensus out there?

Click to expand...

What's the cost difference between points and condenser or a Petronix? Even if the distributor needs new bushings, it's still cheaper.

(quoted from post at 09:17:44 06/14/22)
What's the cost difference between points and condenser or a Petronix? Even if the distributor needs new bushings, it's still cheaper.

Click to expand...

Ultradog put it perfectly:
"Many guys don't understand electrics.
So when there is a issue with their tractor
they think a 12v conversion or EI will
magically solve the problem.
Only after they've thrown a bunch of money
at it and it still doesn't work do they
come here and Bruce and Jmor patiently
teach them what they SHOULD have done in
the first place. "

And what they should have done in the first place is to learn to repair and maintain their tractor.

(quoted from post at 15:52:13 06/12/22) Got a 9N 42, EI, 12V where I'm not getting spark, just wondering what's first checks for me to do to get it running again. It did seem during winter (here in Michigan) that the tractor seemed to lag, maybe a a timing issue, but guess I'll go with the no spark, no run issue for now.

Click to expand...

I personally went to 12v system simply due to the availability to accessory lighting and giggle parts. 12v coolers, 12v lighting, you get the idea. 6v did not offer the supper bright lighting that I wanted. my reasoning is to follow.

I am a heat causality. Bad. Multiple outs due to stupid kid bravery. (read that boy chute and you will be right. all the way arround.) and if I want to work in my shop or anywhere in Texas summers outside, I have to do it at night and have fluids and a fan close by. read that 12v to find anything.

so now, I will drive my tractor out where I am to work on my property, set up two 12v flood lighting, my little fridge, yes I know I could use ice, but have you ever eaten soggy bread on your sandwich? and then I have to buy ice every day. this way I plug into the alternator, lighting and all, and do what I am going to do. if I get shaky, I unplug and roll home, usually not far, but still, you walk when shakes from heat and see how you like it... hehehe... I cool off with the fan if needed, and cold water.

I hate being weak, but hey I can still bring home the tree to build the fire. :?

the Pertronix I put in my was at first bad off the shelf. it had a dwell gap of size enough to drop a thick coin in, and pertronix told me I was insane. I ran there checks, even sent them a video of me doing it to make them believe me, then made it adjustable gap. closed it up to about .030-ish and boom off Chugg went. Yes, his name... live with it. I left the switch on as well, Took it about an hour in my case, and no start after that. DANNNNNG it. I knew what I did right off the bat. as of now, I have 100+ hours of smooth running, most of a year ish, + the idle time on top of that of great running somewhat efficient, 0 resettings run time. not somthing I can say about my more modern tractors. These things are grease, check oil and gas, and go. every time. My vote for EI....

My two Pennies...

Got an update - I placed my new distributor asm on, and still had no spark. Started checking wire voltage from the key and found that the voltage wasn't getting far from the keyed switch. Found a loose crimp connection (Non-soldered) so recrimped it and started up with ease. I do need to make that crimped connection to a soldered one, so it doesn't fail me in the future (again).

Appreciate all your help.