Dad's 2N lift quite suddenly

edit subj Quit not Quite

Came up to WNY to do some work on Fathers 2N. Had something in the idle circuit and got that straightened out and she seems to be running well again. Was cutting some grass and the lift quit working completely. It went from working fine to not attempting to lift at all. It feels like the lift control is not engaging on anything. There is no resistance when moving the control arm from top to bottom.

I pulled out the 4 bolts that hold it in. The control rod that goes in side appears to be smooth and not excessively worn or anything. According to the diagram in the manual it looks like there is a positioning pin that goes through the case into the outer sleeve and that is sheared off almost flush with the inside of the case. I do not know if that was recent or not. The outer sleeve of the control rod does not rotate at all.

Looking for a direction to proceed.

This post was edited by Whiskerfish on 05/31/2022 at 11:12 am.
 
My 9n,pretty much the same machine,did that same thing. I found that the forks going to the control valve
came off. I reached through the inspection cover and the PTO mechanism and with some difficulty,got the
forks back in place. You can check by removing the cover on the right side of the hydraulic sump.
 
Okay tried that.

Pulled both side covers and the forks do not have any excessive play. Feels like they are attached in the bottom. They do not move when the control lever is raised up. When the control lever is pushed all the way to the lower position they do apply downward pressure and I do see tension on the large spring on the implement attachment point.

there is no movement at all on the lift arms.
 
Okay so yes the control valve was stuck. I gave it a jerk and everything seems to work as normal now.

So the question now, is this likely to happen again now that it has happened once and should I start sourcing parts?


Thanks so much for the help. I hate having to head south again and not have this thing working right.
 
Is the fluid milky looking?? If it is the problem could have been caused by water in the fluid. If I remember right this site has replacement valves for it.
 

Fluid was change about 2 years ago, less than 100 hours since. Looked a bit dirty but not milky in the least. Ok will order a new valve. Thanks!!
 
I'd still try this. Slowly open up a drain plug after it has sat a day or more. Only move it till you get drips from it. That will tell you for sure if it has water in it
 

I will do. Dad is pretty good about taking care of it. Never out in the rain and kept in a dry barn when not in use. Does occasionally get used in driving snow.
 
Ordering the parts to change the control valve on my next trip up here. Question is do I have to remove the pump to change the control valve or can it be done while it is in place??

Currently I have the differential gasket kit ( https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Differential-Gasket-Kit-6-Pieces_DGK928.html ) and the control valve in my shopping cart, will I need the gaskets for the pump itself??

Other than a fluid change is there anything else I should do while in there?
 
(quoted from post at 07:25:46 06/01/22) Ordering the parts to change the control valve on my next trip up here. Question is do I have to remove the pump to change the control valve or can it be done while it is in place??

Currently I have the differential gasket kit ( https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Differential-Gasket-Kit-6-Pieces_DGK928.html ) and the control valve in my shopping cart, will I need the gaskets for the pump itself??

Other than a fluid change is there anything else I should do while in there?
IMHO
A sticking valve is usually because of moisture, as old told you, or extreme crud. Not really an item I'd replace with a possibly cheap, and possibly lousy fitting, aftermarket part unless the valve is seriously compromised. Make sure the flexing spring at the front of the valve is intact and in good shape. Often times these are broken, and that can effect smooth operation of the valve. Moisture / water in the oil will eventually cause the problem of a sticky valve. Several fluid changes are needed to really get rid of all the old oil. Just one drain & refill does not get rid of all the oil throughout the system. If there is excessive crud throughout, the only way to completely clean that out is to drop the pump.
 

Excellent thank you. I went that route with the cheap aftermarket regulators and wasted way too much time and energy on them. Lesson learned.

I have a Napa and a Tractor supply in town not terribly far from here. What are the recommendations for the fluid?
 
I always use the Tractor Supply brand that meets the Ford specs[Mc 134,I think] for old tractors. Some
people use 90 weight axle lube,but that's a can that I don't want to open. Any oil discussion devolves into
many different opinions on the subject.
 
(quoted from post at 12:17:17 06/01/22) I always use the Tractor Supply brand that meets the Ford specs[Mc 134,I think] for old tractors. Some
people use 90 weight axle lube,but that's a can that I don't want to open. Any oil discussion devolves into
many different opinions on the subject.

Ha Ha Ha!! I run a motorcycle forum and all tire and oil discussions are immediately related to killing kittens.
 
(quoted from post at 11:29:49 06/01/22)
(quoted from post at 12:17:17 06/01/22) I always use the Tractor Supply brand that meets the Ford specs[Mc 134,I think] for old tractors. Some
people use 90 weight axle lube,but that's a can that I don't want to open. Any oil discussion devolves into
many different opinions on the subject.

Ha Ha Ha!! I run a motorcycle forum and all tire and oil discussions are immediately related to killing kittens.
s for purchasing a new control valve spool, I believe you will be wasting time and $.. Why? Because, Ford initially selected a fit at factory, among several different spools , each varying from another by 1 or 2 ten-thousandths of an inch, so as to obtain a sub-thousandths fit. Compare to what you can purchase today, and also, which do you need?
 
I know what you mean. I used to peruse Yamahaenduros.com and others when I was building dirt bike engines
and any mention of what type of oil is best set off a firestorm.
 
changed the fluid today. The only thing on the shelf at TSC was a shell product but it had the ford spec listed on the back, and only one can. It was working great till it stopped working again. A bit different now it will go up but not down at all. will check the valve again when I regain some energy.
 
(quoted from post at 18:03:37 06/01/22) A bit different now it will go up but not down at all
Yea, this seems to a bit more common from the sticking valve.

Watch out if there is weight on the hitch as a lot of times it will drop by itself later
 
(quoted from post at 18:03:37 06/01/22) changed the fluid today. The only thing on the shelf at TSC was a shell product but it had the ford spec listed on the back, and only one can. It was working great till it stopped working again. A bit different now it will go up but not down at all. will check the valve again when I regain some energy.
heck the spring from front of cylinder to mid point of horseshoe linkage. It is the only force available to move the valve. Lift control lever is stretching spring when moving to lower and relaxing spring when moving to lift. Feel a little more resistance at lever when stretching (lower). If said spring has enough force to move an un-stuck valve, but valve is actually stuck, the horseshoe will unhinge where spring is attached, during attempt to lower. It should never un-hinge, unless possibly with an extreme draft input.
 
I purchased a Ford 2-N........
Once the entire system / Trans / Diff / Hyd was cleaned, it now works great...Sat abandoned for 35+ years..
.
Grand-daughter of original owner painted Tractor wen she was five years of age....RED

NO bad components....Just neglect and water emulsification...

Bob...
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cvphoto127239.jpg

en she was five yeras of age....RED
 
The fork ears popped off the valve. I was pushing a large stump back into the brush and the blade rolled over the top and got raised up very high. Pretty sure that is what caused it. It was a bit tricky but I got that hooked back up and it seems to be working fine again. Will be out with it again this afternoon and see for sure.
Thanks everyone for all the help on this. I was lost!!!
 

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