1941 9N For Sale

I have a 41 9N that I wanted to see if anyone on the forum would be interested in before I try to sell else where. The previous owner told me it was a 41. The engine doesn't not have a stamp on the side, so at some point it was replaced.

Ok, the bad first. I got this tractor with several implements because it didn't run. The owner said it had lost compression. I brought the tractor home and checked for compression. It didn't have any compression. PO said it had been sitting for a while. So, I started to soak it with MM oil. It did turn over freely so I figured it was stuck rings. After many soaks through the spark plug hole, still no compression. I did pull it from one shed to the next and when I pulled it in gear, I started to get air out of the cylinders like it was starting to make some compression. I figured I would pull the head and see if I could see any major damage. Pulled the head and there were no major scratches or damage to the pistons or cylinder walls. I was thinking stuck vales. I put MM oil on the vales and turned it over and let it soak. After several soaks, all valves were move fine and I could put a little bit of oil around the head of the valve to see if they were seated. It didn't drain right through so I thought I would have a half way decent seat. Bought new head gasket, exhaust/intake gasket and valve cover gasket and buttoned everything back up. Still won't start. I checked spark and I think there is an issue with spark now.

The good. This tractor has good rubber front and back and good rims. Rims have been replaced with loop rims. Sheetmetal is in good shape. Some dents in the dog legs, but other wise the hood and fenders are in good shape. Better then my running 8N. The hydraulic pump does work because you can spin the PTO and the arms will raise. The PO had regularly tuned this tractor up at the local Ford dealership. I have all the receipts that go along with it. It has an extra carburetor. Both carbs are not originals. Two square coils, 5 distributor caps that look in good shape, a couple rotors, set of points, and I think 3 sets of plugs that also look usable. When pulling the tractor, I moved through the three forward gears and all was fine and the clutch engaged and disengage the way it should.

The bottom line is I just don't have time to mess with this tractor to get it running. I did some simple things to try, but have other projects that need to get done and I need to move this tractor on to someone who has the time to work on it.

If anyone is interested, let me know. I wanted to try here before just putting out there in other places.

I live between Baltimore and Frederick MD just to give you the location.
Rob







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The engine block serial number is on a cast boss behind the oil filter housing only; did you look there? It wouldn't be blank. S/N only ID's the block so if it was
swapped out, look on bottom of hyd pump for a ID Tag and on the axle trumpets too. May be a casting ID Date Code Tag on starter pocket. BUT, s/n means nothing unless
you have an early 9N you plan to restore to all original. Concentrate on the important facts. Early FORD N so used the front mount distributor. All 9N and 2Ns after s/n
12500 were the same with only changes to the GEN with the 2N and steering boxes getting changed. The MPC's will detail the changes. The data plate you show means
nothing. The I-Beam Rad Rods means it was used before 1944. The GENERATOR appears to be the correct 9N-10000-C 1-Wire/3-Brush Unit, however, I don't see any fan belt
tensioner on it so without belt tension maintained, unit will never charge the battery. A correct GEN doesn't mean that the tractor is wired for the OEM 6V/POS GRN
system though. Got the cutout and Ballast Resistor? Just because there is a 6V battery on it doesn't mean the system is wired correctly for it. Carb on it now is not an
OEM M/S TSX unit - just an aftermarket clone. Extra caps and rotors mean nothing if used. The front mount distributor must be tuned perfectly and more importantly,
mounted on engine correctly. If it gets forced down 180 off, you will bust the base at first power up. When PTO is NOT engaged the shaft will spin freely. It doesn't
mean the pump works. Only way is to run tractor, engage the PTO then raise lift with touch control. Pull dipstick and look at oil level an color. A milky/whitish color
means system is contaminated with water. If no dipstick reading, pull side inspection covers and look inside at oil sump. I wouldn't worry about hydraulic system until
you get engine running. Rear lighting wiring is a disaster. BTW, MMO is only one of the many 'snake-oil' products sold today. The main ingredient, like all others, is
plain mineral spirits. You can buy in bulk at NAPA or just get paint thinner or charcoal lighter fluid -same stuff. A 50/50 mix of acetone and UTF works very good.
There probably other issues but once engine is free, go thru wiring and get the essential manuals, don't be guessing. Then place a PHOTO AD in that forum here.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION:

FORD 2N-10181-B BELT TENSIONER KIT FOR 9N-10000-C GEN:

FORD 9N & 2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:



Tim Daley(MI)

="Tim PloughNman Dal"](reply to post at 06:30:53 01/18/22)

Click to expand...

Tim,
Your info, as always is great.
But I think you missed missed the part where he wants to sell it.
He didn't ask about restoration nor how to get it running.

Appreciate the comments. I was aware he wanted to sell it but is trying to get engine unstuck and I offered advice. A stuck engine isn't going to sell if at all so since
he has all apart may as well go thru the entire systems - if'N he wants to get it running. Can't offer much for a stuck, non-running engine but as-is may be a good
project tractor for cheap.

TPD

WOW!! You really had me hooked as I'm (kind of) looking for another project right now. Then I got to the last line - 850 miles away! Guess I'll keep looking (kind of)!

Tim, Unfortunately, the belt tightener was not there when I got it. They seem to be a rare piece, but it wasn't there when I got it.

The motor is not stuck. It turns over freely. That is why I was hoping just a ring soak would work which I think it did. Again, just don't have the time to go through it right now.

Here are two pictures of the motor. I can't make out anything on the boss where the numbers are supposed to be. If there was anything there at one time, it was stamped so lightly that it is no longer visible. The other picture is at the started. Not sure if those numbers tell you anything, but they are the only ones I can find.

I thought I remember seeing a Youtube video that maybe Kirk did that showed if you are looking at a non-running tractor, you can engage the PTO, lift the control arm, and spin the PTO shaft to see if the arms would raise which is what I did and the arms on this tractor raise.

Hoping someone might be interested.