I would greatly appreciate any advice/words of wisdom from all of you Ford "N" series guys.
I have an 8N with a front mount distributor converted to 12 volt with low oil pressure and weak compression that always started easy but now doesn't. I have many questions and nobody local that I can go to. My tractor is 2 hours away from where I live and I am considering an overhaul but I have questions. This tractor was running good and started easy until a month ago when it just decided not to start. The battery does hold a charge and the only way I can get it started is by jumping the battery and spraying starting fluid in. I do not smell gas like it is flooded and when I take out the plugs, #1 and #2 are a little wet and #3 and #4 are dry.
Spark is weak and everything has been replaced. Spark plugs, points and condenser. I have not replaced the coil yet, I have one but I do not like the way it fits ( it seems loose when I swing the clamp in place).
I have 12.4 volts at the wire that connects to the post on the coil but when I hook up the wire to the coil the voltage drops down to 1.4 volts indicating that I must have a short but I do not know where to start looking or what to look for.
Starter wants to stay engaged after releasing start button. Tapping on the starter/solenoid makes it stop. Why would this happen?
Compression, dry checked (with cold engine since I can't start it) is 85, 77, 85, and 85 (#1-#4). Next time I go up to cabin I will conduct a wet test.
Oil pressure is low after warm up. Starts at around 30 psi but after warm up goes down to around 5 psi at around 1000 rpm (at idle it's around 2 psi, just above 0). I have been doing some reading and main bearings/rod bearings are probably the culprit. What about cam shaft? Can this wear out? I don't see any replacement camshafts available or what to do if the journals are worn.
I run SAE30 non-detergent oil and I am considering running conventional higher viscosity oil but I am afraid of years of sludge breaking free and ruining more of the engine. Can I drain the oil, fill it with kerosene, let it soak for the winter, drain it in the spring and fill it back up with conventional oil or is that a crazy idea?
Everything else on this tractor works great (considering age). I don't want to stick any more money trying to resolve the spark issue until I look at the entire package. I would have to haul this back home since there is no easy way to pull the engine out where it currently is but could possibly do an in-frame rebuild. The issue would be taking the thing apart, deciding what is needed, ordering parts and if I have all the necessary tools.
I have tried to explain, in as much detail as I could, what is going on with my tractor and I would greatly appreciate feedback.
I have an 8N with a front mount distributor converted to 12 volt with low oil pressure and weak compression that always started easy but now doesn't. I have many questions and nobody local that I can go to. My tractor is 2 hours away from where I live and I am considering an overhaul but I have questions. This tractor was running good and started easy until a month ago when it just decided not to start. The battery does hold a charge and the only way I can get it started is by jumping the battery and spraying starting fluid in. I do not smell gas like it is flooded and when I take out the plugs, #1 and #2 are a little wet and #3 and #4 are dry.
Spark is weak and everything has been replaced. Spark plugs, points and condenser. I have not replaced the coil yet, I have one but I do not like the way it fits ( it seems loose when I swing the clamp in place).
I have 12.4 volts at the wire that connects to the post on the coil but when I hook up the wire to the coil the voltage drops down to 1.4 volts indicating that I must have a short but I do not know where to start looking or what to look for.
Starter wants to stay engaged after releasing start button. Tapping on the starter/solenoid makes it stop. Why would this happen?
Compression, dry checked (with cold engine since I can't start it) is 85, 77, 85, and 85 (#1-#4). Next time I go up to cabin I will conduct a wet test.
Oil pressure is low after warm up. Starts at around 30 psi but after warm up goes down to around 5 psi at around 1000 rpm (at idle it's around 2 psi, just above 0). I have been doing some reading and main bearings/rod bearings are probably the culprit. What about cam shaft? Can this wear out? I don't see any replacement camshafts available or what to do if the journals are worn.
I run SAE30 non-detergent oil and I am considering running conventional higher viscosity oil but I am afraid of years of sludge breaking free and ruining more of the engine. Can I drain the oil, fill it with kerosene, let it soak for the winter, drain it in the spring and fill it back up with conventional oil or is that a crazy idea?
Everything else on this tractor works great (considering age). I don't want to stick any more money trying to resolve the spark issue until I look at the entire package. I would have to haul this back home since there is no easy way to pull the engine out where it currently is but could possibly do an in-frame rebuild. The issue would be taking the thing apart, deciding what is needed, ordering parts and if I have all the necessary tools.
I have tried to explain, in as much detail as I could, what is going on with my tractor and I would greatly appreciate feedback.