2N Generator

Hello. We purchased a Ford 2N very recently. It appears to have a 12v battery without conversion. The key was accidently left on for a period of time and was noticed by a smell. We turned the key off and the generator was extremely hot and smoking. Not sure, but after charging the battery it may only run for a short period of time before stalling and having to recharge the battery (only went though this cycle once so far so not 100%). The volt meter pegs negative while the tractor is running. We believe it showed normal charging range prior to this happening. Did we kill the generator? The tractor seems to run now as it did with the battery charged. Any thoughts on likely damage, or suggestions on tests would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Huck the whole works in the bush (or recycle) Conversions to alternator are available from this site - GOOD idea. HTH

(quoted from post at 18:01:27 09/09/21) Hello. We purchased a Ford 2N very recently. It appears to have a 12v battery without conversion. The key was accidently left on for a period of time and was noticed by a smell. We turned the key off and the generator was extremely hot and smoking. Not sure, but after charging the battery it may only run for a short period of time before stalling and having to recharge the battery (only went though this cycle once so far so not 100%). The volt meter pegs negative while the tractor is running. We believe it showed normal charging range prior to this happening. Did we kill the generator? The tractor seems to run now as it did with the battery charged. Any thoughts on likely damage, or suggestions on tests would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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he old 2N generator was for 6v, as well as the cut-out. Now that you have exposed both to 12v, both are probably scrap, ....unless the gen is a very early small diameter gen & in that case, even a burnt up unit is still worth $ to a collector/restorer. Measure barrel of gen, the "collectables" are
those with barrel dia of 3 3/4" dia (11 1/2 circumference), later much more common are 4 1/4" dia (14.25" circ)or larger .
'

No big deal, just a mistake.
Have the generator rebuilt and buy a new 6V battery.
DON'T make the 12V mistake.

DON'T make the 12V mistake.

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Did you get copies of THE ESSENTIAL MANUALS before you got your 2N ans started to use it? FWIW & FYI: 99.98% of all non-starting/non-running FORD TRACTORS are due to
mucked up wiring and yours was incorrect from the start. Leaving the ignition Key Switch ON will burn up the points when left on so you did more damage than you know.
You need teh OEM ESSENTIAL MANUALS to read before you do any more work on it if you don't know where to start. REMOVE THE BATTERY. Determine what the system has, on the
OEM 6V/POS GRN setup, the GEN is a 1-WIRE/3-BRUSH, 11-AMP, 'A' Circuit unit that uses the Round-Can Cutout Circuit. Are you sure you don't have an AMMETER, not a
Voltmeter? FORD used an AMP GAUGE on the N-Series Models. It is a passive device, OEM 30/30 Induction (LOOP) Style. The STARTER MOTOR is a 1-Wire unit and uses NO
Solenoid. The front mount distributor is tuned up off the tractor on your bench per manuals and must be remounted only one correct way. Whether using 6V or 12V, the
system requires the use of the OEM Ballast Resistor. On a 12V wiring job, the GEN and CUTOUT are removed and a 12V ALT installed. Regardless if 6V or 12V the charging
device must have a fan belt tensioning device installed otherows the unit will never charge the battery. Simply charging a battery with a standard trickle charger won't
do much if battery is weak or dead. So, decide what system you want -6V POS GRN or 12V NEG GRN. Take the battery, GEN, CUTOUT, COIL, Resistor, AMMETER, Switch to a
trusty local starter shop who nows old FORDs to be tested. Get your ESSENTIAL MANUALS and JMOR's Wiring Pictograms. If you decide to use 12V, note if you want to use
your 6V coil, you will need an external 1-OHM resistor in the coil wiring circuit. Buy a 12 Volt Coil and eliminate the external resistor. Again, the OEM Ballast
Resistor is NOT the same as the external resistor -know the difference -you must keep the Ballast Resistor on a 12V switcheroo job. DON't apply battery power yet! THEN
you will probably need to pull the DIST and rebuild it. Timing and mounting are important. Use new points, STANDARD IGNITION/BLUE STREAK FD-6769-X, gap set .015. Plugs
(Champion H12 or AUTO-LITE 437) gapped at .025. Firing Order 1,2,4,3 CCW. VERIFY ALL WIRING BEFORE YOU CONNECT THE BATTERY! See 75 Tips from Bruce(VA) for DIST info.
Mount DIST the Correct Way! Test unit before stating tractor. Most importantly is to get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read religiously.

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:

FORD 9N/2N WIRING 6V & 12V:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

EXTERNAL IN-LINE 1-OHM CERAMIC RESISTOR REQUIRED WITH THE FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHEN USING A 6-VOLT COIL:


FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT USED AFTER S/N 12,500 TO S/N 258504 ON 9N & 2N MODELS ONLY:
*NOTE: Eliminate cutout along with the generator when doing a 12V switch over job.


FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Thank you all for your help.

(quoted from post at 15:01:27 09/09/21) Hello. We purchased a Ford 2N very recently. It appears to have a 12v battery without conversion. The key was accidently left on for a period of time and was noticed by a smell. We turned the key off and the generator was extremely hot and smoking. Not sure, but after charging the battery it may only run for a short period of time before stalling and having to recharge the battery (only went though this cycle once so far so not 100%). The volt meter pegs negative while the tractor is running. We believe it showed normal charging range prior to this happening. Did we kill the generator? The tractor seems to run now as it did with the battery charged. Any thoughts on likely damage, or suggestions on tests would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Thank you all for your help.