1952 side mount timing

Ok guys in serious need of some help. Im trying to time the
dis. I have the #1 cylinder TDC. Ive read several different
things that Ive tried. Ha being the rotor face the #1 spot on
the cap and Ive tried favibg it toward the number 1 cylinder.

Point gap is set to .025
Spark gap is set to .025
Firing order is 1243 ccw

Has the distributor been removed from the tractor?

Do you have a timing light?

Do you have a multimeter?

Have you located and highlighted the timing marks on the flywheel?
75 Tips

I have found the 0 on the flu wheel and the dis has been removed. No timing light or multi meter

You can set the static timing w/ a test light.

But contrary to what others may say, you a not going to accurately set the dynamic timing w/o a light.

Do you own a test light?
75 Tips

I do not own one. Ive just been going off of past posts and what everyone sets things to. I cant even get it to start partially.

(quoted from post at 17:25:07 08/07/21) I have found the 0 on the flu wheel and the dis has been removed. No timing light or multi meter

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1 TDC comes up every engine revolution, however, TDC-compression only occurs once every two engine revolutions. Gotta get the right revolution. #1 spark plug wire can be in any one of 4 places on distributor cap, (not just where #1 is molded into plastic) depending on how you stabbed/installed the distributor....and will run fine in any one of the 4 locations when all is done correctly.

Okay. How do I know when its on the right revolution for
TDC?

Thanks for the Info

By the position of the valves. But the easy way, is just to guess. You have a fifty-fifty chance of getting it right, and it only takes a few seconds to turn the distributor 180 degrees if you get it wrong.

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 08/07/2021 at 03:00 pm.

You are working on a 69 year old tractor w/o benefit of simple, common diagnostic tools. You can keep turning that distributor and pointing the rotor this way and that and you might get lucky. Or, you can pay $12 and buy a multimeter and set the dynamic timing, then borrow a timing light from the parts store and set the dynamic timing.

Your call.

If you decide to do it the easy way, here's how: Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

If you want to set the dynamic timing via a timing light you'll most likely have to either borrow one from a gearhead friend or purchase one. Timing lights have largely gone the way of buggy whips.

(quoted from post at 14:25:07 08/07/21) I have found the 0 on the flu wheel and the dis has been removed. No timing light or multi meter

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To add to the excitement, there's TWO timing marks on the flywheel 180 degrees apart!

An "industrial version" of the side-mount engine was made having the timing mark viewing "window" in the opposite side of the flywheel housing and to keep from having to have two flywheel part numbers they chose to make two sets of marks and use the same flywheel on both versions of the engine!

This post was edited by wore out on 08/07/2021 at 10:26 pm.

Do you have and have you read the ESSENTIAL MANUALS? The FORD 8N OPERATOR'S MANUAL and the I&T FO-4 MANUAL have chapters detailing the timing procedure on the angle mount (front too)distributor. I'd start there.


FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:



Tim Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 14:28:54 08/07/21) You can set the static timing w/ a test light.

But contrary to what others may say, you a not going to accurately set the dynamic timing w/o a light.

Do you own a test light?
75 Tips

Click to expand...

You can set static timing with a cigarette rolling paper.

If points are decent it will within a degree vs a light.

Done this many years, 60-70s motorcycles, 50-70s cars +trucks. Sometimes roadside or up in the woods.

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 08/08/2021 at 02:09 pm.

Zig-Zag, TOPS, or E-Z Wider???


Tim Daley(MI)

Timmy BOY , it don't matter much.

You need:
1) clean flat points, and motor at static timing mark

2) Back off timing plate or Dist so points are shut. Grab yur rolling paper, insert into point contacts. Give the paper a tug

3) Turn timing plate/dist until rolling paper just slips, lock down timing plate dist. Timing is set.

I did this on Jap bikes that did 10,000 RPMs

YOU GOT THAT!!!????

P.S. Don't fill any papers with the wild wood weed , the 1st time YOU try this

(quoted from post at 07:46:59 08/09/21) Zig-Zag, TOPS, or E-Z Wider???


Tim Daley(MI)

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If you can't roll use E-Z Widers. But too much paper for a good NY needle.

TOH

Whatever. Sounds like ya'll been rollin' and smokin' yer own home-grown blend for a while. Gotta admit I thought I'd heard all the farmerized/shadetree mechanic methods but I guess not.

TPD

(quoted from post at 15:06:50 08/07/21) Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock,

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First OP my apologies that I hijack your thread. I suspect I have timing issue on my tractor (bought it this year from someone). My oiler is more at 5 o'clock and stud is at 7 o'clock. Or it doesn't matter?

(quoted from post at 14:07:35 09/08/21)

(quoted from post at 15:06:50 08/07/21) Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock,

Click to expand...

First OP my apologies that I hijack your thread. I suspect I have timing issue on my tractor (bought it this year from someone). My oiler is more at 5 o'clock and stud is at 7 o'clock. Or it doesn't matter?

Click to expand...

does not matter.