1952 8N 12 volt wiring went gunnysack

MacLance

New User
This is my first Tractor, I tried to follow all the wireing diagrams for a 12 volt system .everything is new but when you push the starter button....it does nothing. Could you please take a look at my
wirering and let me know what went gunnysack. I would like to drive the tractor insted of pulling it around with a rope. Thank you,
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I tried to follow all the wireing diagrams for a 12 volt system

I agree.

You have both an oem ballast resistor ( for a front coil which you do not have) as well as a ceramic resistor, which you probably do not need either if you have a 12v coil. Do you?

You also have an in-line fuel filter which could easily restrict fuel flow.

So, even if you could get the starter to spin, it probably wouldn't start.

That MAY be the wrong solenoid. How many terminals on the back of it?
75 Tips
 
Looks like you have the ignition switch wired to the wrong terminal on the oem resistor, plus you have the lights hooked to the wrong terminal. Like H. Cooke said google JMOR's wiring diagrams.

Trouttman
 
Looks like an automotive solenoid

Likely designed for 12v+ activation

The tractor start button supplies a ground

The stock 6v solenoid works just fine w 12v...

I painted mine

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And yeah, get rid of the stock resistor, doesn't belong on that tractor. If you have a 12v coil, get rid of the other resistor too.... If you have a 6v coil, personally, I'd ditch it and the resistor and get a 12v coil
 
I do have a 12 volt coil,
There is one terminal on the back of the starter solenoid.
I have made some changes, I replaced the 3 terminal resister block with the original 2 post terminal conector but still have the cermaic block resiter hooked up.
I changed the starter solienod to a Echlin ST71 (NAPA) 4 terminal and flattened a copper tube to make the conection to the starter.
On the two smaller terminals of the new solenoid, I hooked one to the foot starter and the other to the negative ground of the battery,
I tried to start it and it accually clicked...but that was all she wrote..just a click.
In regards to the glass filter, it is temporary until I put the hood on, it will have one single metal gas line hooked up from the carb to the sediment bowl.
I have a little gas can set up temporarily so I can try to get her started.
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Thank you, I downloaded JMOR,s diagrams and have them nailed up on the walls down in the shop, I guess I am confused as to which one aplies to this tractor.
I posted some pics of the new work...please have a look ,I might be going from bad to worst..but I will keep tring till I get her right.
 
Yep, you just wired it all incorrectly and the other guys have given you the right information. Usually when the starter solenoid just click click clicks when the pushbutton pressed means, it is a weak or dead battery. Take it in to a local starter shop and it get tested under load. While he is doing that, rip out your wiring and start over. Use JMOR's WIRING PICTOGRAMS. The OEM Ballast Resistor is only used on the earlier front mount distributor. You have the side mount. I'd opt for an OEM style ignition switch as well and get a 12V coil that way you won't have to muck with an external resistor. My final advice is to invest in copies of all The ESSENTIAL MANUALS if'N ya wanna be an 8N owner. Best tools you can have. Should have done that when you first got your 8N and before you did any work. What instrument Lights are you referring to? The 8N never had any lights stock especially any dash lights. Lighting kits were only from the dealer as accessories -2 headlights and a taillight and the 8N released the Implement Lamp in 1949 as an extra option too. Disconnect the lights, til you get the wiring all corrected. You can reconnect once you get to that point when tractor starts, charges, and runs fine.

8N 12V SWITCHOVER ON THE ANGLE (SIDE) MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
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*PICTOGRAM courtesy of JMOR

OEM 8N WIRING(6V/POS GRN) AFTER S/N 8N-263844 WITH ANGLE (SIDE) MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
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FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
Visual does not tell with certainty, which solenoid that you have, as more than one look same but are electrically different. Got a part number? As a try, move the bottom solenoid wire from battery neg to battery positive and try to start.
 
(quoted from post at 15:41:44 08/29/21) Starter Solenoid Switch
Part #: ECH ST71
Line: Echlin Ignition
ire as I said above & it will work. If you wish extra safety, the wire on small terminal now connected to battery can be connected to switched side of Ignition switch and then starter will not run unless Ignition key sw is on & you simultaneously press Start sw.
 
As you have it now, you have negative to BOTH sides of the solenoid lol...

I really think it's worth your time to get a stock 8n solenoid...
Fits right, looks right, and works right.
 
Thank you so much for your great advice and encouragemnet. So this afternoon I went and tore out all the wiring and resistor blocks off the tractor and took them out to the feild , put them in a pile then set it on fire, then I left.
I came back in and wired it EXactly like the very first diagram on this page, Then I tried to start it.
It makes a two-clunk-it sound now, you hit the starter buton a couple times it goes two-clunk-it...two-clunk-it which is better than the click-it sound from before.
At this point I understand I have been defeated, its a terrible feeling and I did not really want to set the tractor on fire ,so I took some jumper cables and hoocked right up to the starter .
It went tah-whirrrrr tah whirrrr whirrr whirrrr . It actually turned over. Progress !
So I took the solenoid and ampmeeter out to the feild and thew them on the other stuff that was still burning from befor ,then I left.
I am going to order me a stock solenoid, nobody in this city has one.
My question to you sir...is...do I need to puch the clutch in to ease the drag on the motor?
I went and got a FORD Tractor shop maual as well and will read it tonight,
I really appreicate all your help here.
 
No appreciable drag difference with clutch in or out... push of you want but the tractor doesn't care.

Without the neutral safety system it would easily start in gear and idle on down the road....

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 08/29/2021 at 08:59 pm.
 
Well, with the 4 terminal solenoid, this statement is impossible: wired it EXactly like the very first diagram on this page,. Now if you want the 4 terminal S71 to behave exactly the same as the standard 8N solenoid (8N11450), then wire it like this, adding red wire. Difference is red wire is external, where with 8N11450 it is inside the solenoid case.
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(quoted from post at 21:57:37 08/29/21) No appreciable drag difference with clutch in or out... push of you want but the tractor doesn't care.

Without the neutral safety system it would easily start in gear and idle on down the road....

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 08/29/2021 at 08:59 pm.
I will disagree with that statement! Cold weather, thick oil in trans and the tractor will care!
 
Temperatures below 0*F can make a big difference in engine cranking speeds if the clutch is not depressed. This would be less noticeable on a 12v system, but still significant depending on battery and starter condition and ambient temperature.

Colin, MN
 
Here is the new solenoid I ordered from Yesterdays Tractors...I can not believe how fast they got it here, I think they set a new world record for fastest shipping.
Thank you Yesterdays tractors.
Doest this look like the right one gentelmen?
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(quoted from post at 11:38:27 09/01/21) Here is the new solenoid I ordered from Yesterdays Tractors...I can not believe how fast they got it here, I think they set a new world record for fastest shipping.
Thank you Yesterdays tractors.
Doest this look like the right one gentelmen?
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto99684.jpg>
umber on box looks right, but as far as appearance of the part itself, not a lot can be determined, particularly as to the circuit inside.
 
(quoted from post at 12:10:15 09/01/21) Here you go, a better picture.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto99686.jpg>
don't really need to repeat myself, doI?
 
On the off chance you posted pics for all of us and not just trying to get someone repeat himself....

While it's not the one I prefer, that one is listed on all sorts if sites as correct for your tractor.... SHOULD be fine.... remember the small terminal points toward the engine and is triggered by being grounded by the start switch NOT the battery
 

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Ok ,
I rewired it and installed the new solenoid, when I push the foot stater it just goes click.
So if I ground the bracket on the solenoid to the negative terminal of the batter the tractor turns over but the wire smokes then catches on fire.
I don't think it is supposed to do that.
Wonder what I did wrong.
 
Ok ,
I rewired it and installed the new solenoid, when I push the foot stater it just goes click.
So if I ground the bracket on the solenoid to the negative terminal of the batter the tractor turns over but the wire smokes then catches on fire.
I don't think it is supposed to do that.
Wonder what I did wrong.[/quote]

You need a heavy cable making good connection from the negative side of your battery to the engine block and the starter needs to be making a good electrical connection to the engine block
 

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