Ballast Resistor

I have a 1950 Ford 8n 12 v. with side mount distributor. I am upgrading my ignition system with new 12 v. 3 ohm Pertronix coil, new plugs, points and condenser. New distributor cap, rotor and all new spark plug wires. In reading the instructions for the Pertronix coil, it says to remove the ballast resistor for all 4 and 6 cylinder engines. However I am unsure whether the instructions pertain to electronic ignitor or breaker points systems or both. Would appreciate some advice.[/b]

(quoted from post at 14:16:51 08/10/21) I have a 1950 Ford 8n 12 v. with side mount distributor. I am upgrading my ignition system with new 12 v. 3 ohm Pertronix coil, new plugs, points and condenser. New distributor cap, rotor and all new spark plug wires. In reading the instructions for the Pertronix coil, it says to remove the ballast resistor for all 4 and 6 cylinder engines. However I am unsure whether the instructions pertain to electronic ignitor or breaker points systems or both. Would appreciate some advice.[/b]

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hy ask here? You don't actually want a bunch of opinions vs facts, do you?? Contact Pertronix. They sold you the product. They have your money. They are the ones that have the power to invalidate the warranty on mis-use of their product!

Seems to me they said 'all'.... all should mean all right?

I haven't read your instructions but what you said they say is remove it....

Seems pretty cut and dried to me...

Check with Pertronix - but you should find that the new round coil has an internal resister - meaning that the external one (if it was there) shouldn't be needed.

With all those upgrades I was curious about the "points" being replaced with new ones. Did you mean Electronic Ignition module instead of points or are you keeping the points system?

Just curious.

- Joe -

This post was edited by Joe.S.AK on 08/11/2021 at 07:44 pm.

(quoted from post at 12:16:51 08/10/21) I have a 1950 Ford 8n 12 v. with side mount distributor. I am upgrading my ignition system with new 12 v. 3 ohm Pertronix coil, new plugs, points and condenser. New distributor cap, rotor and all new spark plug wires. In reading the instructions for the Pertronix coil, it says to remove the ballast resistor for all 4 and 6 cylinder engines. However I am unsure whether the instructions pertain to electronic ignitor or breaker points systems or both. Would appreciate some advice.[/b]

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Do as JMOR says!! That said a1950 with a side mount distributor does not have a ballest resistor! A 1950 with front mount does! You can not remote what it does not have!

"a 1950 8N with a side mount distributor does not have a ballast resistor"

BRAVO and AMEN Mr. Geiger!

To the O.P., tossing out the somewhat robust and "even a caveman can fix it" breaker point system and replacing it with a relatively finicky and FRAGILE aftermarket E.I. is NOT an "upgrade" in the eyes of some of us crotchety old tractor "GURUS", IMHO.

Modern automotive E.I.s are built to a MUCH higher level of performance and reliability than the aftermarket E.I. units being sold for our old tractors.

(quoted from post at 00:45:19 08/12/21)
"a 1950 8N with a side mount distributor does not have a ballast resistor"

BRAVO and AMEN Mr. Geiger!

To the O.P., tossing out the somewhat robust and "even a caveman can fix it" breaker point system and replacing it with a relatively finicky and FRAGILE aftermarket E.I. is NOT an "upgrade" in the eyes of some of us crotchety old tractor "GURUS", IMHO.

Modern automotive E.I.s are built to a MUCH higher level of performance and reliability than the aftermarket E.I. units being sold for our old tractors.

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es, I am annoyed at the wide spread us of the term "upgrade" in reference to several types of modification!
Further more, it amazes me that so many seem to resist ballast?! Going back at least to sailing ships, ballast has been used in the lower hull for stability. Here is is for stability of current (the electric kind, not the ocean kind). :wink:

I just replaced the ballast resistor on my 2N. I bought the resistor (without the phenolic
backing plate) from NAPA and used the old parts to install it. If the phenolic plate had been
damaged, I'd have replaced the whole unit.

Yepper, many fellas don't realize that you can just buy the resistor and NOT have to get a whole new unit with the backing plate. The Bakelite backing plate can be used over and over. They sell the entire units, both for the 9N/2N and the 8N, and also just the resistor itself, p/n 18-12250. The two top terminal connectors are fastened onto the backing plate and secured with the nuts included. These two terminal posts are the active conductors in the circuit. The single bottom post is only a junction terminal that the AMMETER wire, the cutout (or VR if an 8N), and the ignition switch wire. Heck, you could even make your own backing plate if you wanted to. You just need a non-conductive piece of Masonite or a piece of circuit board, but use a 1/8 thick one.

FWIW & FYI: Ditto with the Sediment Bulb Assembly. You only need to buy a new Valve Stem Assembly, p/n APN-9194 ($6) and not a whole new bulb assembly ($25) when the seal wears out and it starts leaking.


Tim Daley(MI)