I don't know where to begin...

Vicious

New User
Good day guys,

I'm hoping someone can help point me in the right direction as I'm at a loss as to where to go. This will probably be a long post, so I'll apologize in advance :)

To start, I don't know exactly what tractor I have. It's a hand me down that came through my wife's family. I believe it's a 9n, but I can't find any of the casting markings to indicate any year. I'll post some pictures below and maybe it will help if necessary.

I've used it to brush hog my property for years until the key was left on and I believe that it caused the points to burn up. It sat for a bit, and then I replaced the points, condenser, cap, plug wires, and plugs.

After that, the tractor seemed to start okay, and it would run and idle fine, but any time I tried to engage the brush hog, the tractor would die. It simply no longer had power.

I spent some time in the forums looking for answers, and it seemed as though it could be plug wires for the #3 and #4 cylinders were swapped. I double checked and believe the firing order is correct. Then it seemed as though it may be a carb issue, and since it was already prone to leaking I replaced it.

It fired up immediately, but exhibited the same issues. I also noticed that the throttle response was a bit slow. I can't say how it was before I replaced the carb, but actually opening the throttle on the carb seemed to have a bit of delay. Fast forward through me fumbling around with the main and idle screws, and I've managed to really screw it up now.

So, would anyone have any suggestions / ideas / resources I might use to get myself back on track? Of course, if there are any questions I might be able to answer that could help, ask away.

Thanks in advance!
 
I can't seem to add the pictures to the post. I'm getting caught by a spam filter by adding h_t_t_p to the url. The same thing happens when I try to upload using the post. The links to the pictures of my tractor, without the u r l stuff are below.

Thanks again!

viciouscustoms.com/images/trac2.jpg

viciouscustoms.com/images/trac4.jpg

viciouscustoms.com/images/trac3.jpg

viciouscustoms.com/images/trac1.jpg

This post was edited by Vicious on 07/27/2021 at 03:31 pm.
 
It takes several posts to be able to link to stuff and add pictures. That may be your posting issue.
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:36 07/27/21) Coil?

Replaced with a brand new 12V coil at the time I did the rest of the ignition stuff. It does have a 12V conversion, that was done well before I came along :)
 

I didn't realize this was my first post. I've been registered since 2016, and spend a good bit of time on here, so it's a bit surprising, but I guess it happens :)
 
(quoted from post at 23:15:24 07/27/21) Good day guys,

I'm hoping someone can help point me in the right direction as I'm at a loss as to where to go. This will probably be a long post, so I'll apologize in advance :)

To start, I don't know exactly what tractor I have. It's a hand me down that came through my wife's family. I believe it's a 9n, but I can't find any of the casting markings to indicate any year.

A 9N or 2N has a 3 speed transmission, an 8N has a 4 speed.
See if you can find some letters and numbers just above and behind the starter and tell us what they are.

I spent some time in the forums looking for answers, and it seemed as though it could be plug wires for the #3 and #4 cylinders were swapped. I double checked and believe the firing order is correct. Then it seemed as though it may be a carb issue, and since it was already prone to leaking I replaced it.

While you were looking, did you run across Bruce's 75 tips? You must have. Find them and print them out.
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:00 07/27/21)
(quoted from post at 23:15:24 07/27/21) Good day guys,

I'm hoping someone can help point me in the right direction as I'm at a loss as to where to go. This will probably be a long post, so I'll apologize in advance :)

To start, I don't know exactly what tractor I have. It's a hand me down that came through my wife's family. I believe it's a 9n, but I can't find any of the casting markings to indicate any year.

A 9N or 2N has a 3 speed transmission, an 8N has a 4 speed.
See if you can find some letters and numbers just above and behind the starter and tell us what they are.

I spent some time in the forums looking for answers, and it seemed as though it could be plug wires for the #3 and #4 cylinders were swapped. I double checked and believe the firing order is correct. Then it seemed as though it may be a carb issue, and since it was already prone to leaking I replaced it.

While you were looking, did you run across Bruce's 75 tips? You must have. Find them and print them out.

It's a 3 speed with reverse. I do indeed have Bruce's 75 tips. It was something I used a bit ago when I removed the added fuel filters. It seems as though keep it simple stupid is the way to go.
 
You think this is long? Ha! More technical info required. First, there is but one place where the serial number is located and that is behind the oil filter housing on
the engine block -see pix. The s/n was hand stamped on the block AFTER it was assembled and passed QC Inspection. It was meant to also ID the whole tractor as well but
means nothing today because many engines have been swapped out. Unless you have an early 9N you want to restore to OEM, forget the s/n. The important items to know are
that ALL 9N and 2N models were basically the same after s/n 9N-12500. The 9N/2N had a 3-SPD TRANS; DRAFT CONTROL only with same hydraulic system; with a different
electrical system and a different steering system over their lives. The wheels on the 9N and 2N were different than the ones used after 1947 on the 8N and up. Any part
found with a 9N prefix is only a casting number. Bottom line, forget the serial number. Next important item to know is what electrical system are you using? The OEM
setup was 6V/POS GRN. Many have been switched out to 12V. Regardless, 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. The front mount distributor is a
mystery to many. Replacing distributor parts without doing a proper tuneup means problems will arise. Did you have a good set of points (Blue Streak) and set gap at
.015 and then set timing per manual then test before mounting? If the DIST isn't mounted correctly on the engine, and is off 180 deg, the second power is applied it
will bust the aluminum base and render it junk with starting issues thereafter. Electrically, ALL 9N and 2N tractors used a 1-Wire/3-Brush 11-AMP GENERATOR with the
roundcan cutout (after s/n 12500); a 1-Wire Starter Motor with NO Solenoid; a Ballast Resistor; Ignition switch; AMMETER, safety start pushbutton switch; and all wired
correctly in a 6V/POS GRN system. When guys started doing 12V conversions correctly, the GEN & CUTOUT were removed and a 12V battery and alternator installed. With
either the GEN or the ALT, if no fan belt tension device is attached, the system will never charge the battery. Also, lights were never on the tractor at the factory.
Lighting kits were always dealer options and many were installed wrong by them or the farmer and thus are a source of shorts. Why did you replace the carb? Dont guess
the problem. All these parts can be and should be rebuilt as there were intended to be, but determine if defective or not first. If fuel flow test passed, leave it
alone. New parts are usually junk. Finally, having the ESSENTIAL MANUALS are the best investment tools you can have for your tractor. If you dont know what it is
supposed to be, how can you fix it or make changes to it? Here's the OEM WIRING and 12V wiring pictograms from JMOR.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR ENGINE BLOCK SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/2QvuQBGl.jpg>​
NOTE: ALL 9N & 2N models used the STAR symbol before and after the serial number and ALL used the 9N prefix. The 8N prefix was used on the 8N model after JULY 1947
and the STAR symbols were used til 1950.

OEM FORD 9N/2N WIRING DIAGRAMS; 6V/POS GRN:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/CJedLEcl.jpg>​
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/iP09xMVl.jpg>​
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/SGwwM6tl.jpg>​

FORD 9N OEM WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/d0yuVcil.jpg>​

FORD 9N/2N WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR, 12V CONVERSION:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/Swubdfml.jpg>​

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED OFF 180 DG:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/eQMN65Fl.jpg>​
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/UwHSwizl.jpg>​

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
<img src=https://i.imgur.com/i2gbSeol.jpg>​

Tim Daley(MI)
 

Thank you for this. The serial number is completely eroded on the side of the block. With that said, forgetting the serial number is easy to do :) From what I've read, its a later model 9N. I take that from some of the differences I read about between the 9N and 2N, but it's as likely that it's a franken-N.

The electrical system was converted from 6V to 12V, and the coil that's being used is a 12V model (based off the 75 tips). Previously it had the in-line resistors to drop the voltage to the 6V coil.

Out of curiosity, would putting the distributor back in upside down result in a good running tractor, with no power? It looks like it would be more catastrophic from the pictures, but I thought it would be worth asking.

Thanks again!
 
(quoted from post at 19:16:50 07/27/21)
I didn't realize this was my first post. I've been registered since 2016, and spend a good bit of time on here, so it's a bit surprising, but I guess it happens :)

You can link images on day one. Uploading images takes up server resources and that is what is restricted to established users.

TOH
 
Here are the images I tried to attach previously. The last picture reflects the firing order I used. As mentioned, I'll look at regaping the points. Thanks again!

https://www.viciouscustoms.com/images/trac2.jpg

https://www.viciouscustoms.com/images/trac4.jpg

https://www.viciouscustoms.com/images/trac3.jpg

https://www.viciouscustoms.com/images/trac1.jpg

This post was edited by Vicious on 07/29/2021 at 07:25 am.
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:49 07/29/21) Tim is at it again with his over sized posts messing things up!

I think that was me. I re-added the pictures from my server, and they were larger than I thought :)
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:12 07/27/21)
(quoted from post at 17:55:36 07/27/21) Coil?

Replaced with a brand new 12V coil at the time I did the rest of the ignition stuff. It does have a 12V conversion, that was done well before I came along :)

Does it have the OEM resistor PLUS a second resistor? With a 12V coil it should be just the OEM resistor.

What voltage at the top of the coil with the points open? When closed? (you can turn the engine or bump the starter until the voltage changes to get both values)
 

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