46 2n hydraulics

boler76

Member
well I am still in need of advice from some one who knows what parts I should replace in my
hydraulics system to eliminate the hammering under load, the hydraulics work fine, just hammer
under load, Thanks
 
My 44 2N is like that, think it is normal. And I did have it apart and cleaned and inspected and found nothing wrong. Did that when I had to replace top lift cover due to it getting a crack. The 3 point booster cylinder mounts to that top cover and after 50 years is when it cracked where the booster cylinder mounts.
 
(quoted from post at 03:39:22 07/27/21) well I am still in need of advice from some one who knows what parts I should replace in my
hydraulics system to eliminate the hammering under load, the hydraulics work fine, just hammer
under load, Thanks

From where I'm at it's tough to judge the intensity of what you are calling a "knock".

It is normal for the Scotch Yoke-operated piston pumps to make SOME noise under load, and even ones the make quite a bit of noise typically just go on working.

Unless the noise is REALLY excessive AND you are going to put hundreds upon hundreds of hours of use on the tractor I wouldn't worry about it.

I suppose the knock will be more noticeable if you are using a light "UTF-type" oil vs. a heavier gear oil.

Have you ever checked to see if there's a significant amount of metal filings in the oil, if lots of brass and/or iron filing that WOULD possibly indicate severe or rapid wear of pump parts.

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If you are determined to tear into your CURRENTLY WORKING pump, the most likely points of wear would be the brass parts, front and back bushings (Key #42), cam blocks (Key #17), and possibly the cam (Key #18 ) and yokes/pistons (Key #16).

Before proceeding be aware any new parts you buy will likely have been made in "The Land of Almost Right" and some fitment issues have been reported with certain parts.

Hopefully some others will chime in here with their opinions!
 
First of all, model year matters na-da as all 9N and 2N's used the same hydraulic system. Do not tear anything apart until you know for sure what you are doing and if you even need to buy any new parts until you perform a true root cause problem solving method. You should do a lift test before you think about pulling the top cover off. Connect a load to your 3-pt like blade or plow. Remove the side inspection covers on center housing case. Start engine, engage PTO, raise the lift all the way to the fullest UP position, leave it, then shut down tractor. Observe if the load drops in few minutes, a few hours, or a few days. A fully functional system will maintain a load UP for weeks, even months. If load drops fast as stated, your system needs PM. Chances are great the cylinder is worn and leaking oil down. Repeat lift procedure then once load begins to drop look up into the inspection covers to the cylinder on the top and observe if oil is seeping out and down. The original N cylinder used a 3-Steel ring type piston. If never rebuilt, it is probably still in there. As the steel rings moved in the cylinder bore they'd wear grooves and thus were the major cause of leaking. You would then need to pull top cover and rebuild with a new cylinder and a new piston. Forget about trying to hone out or rebuild the cylinder, get a new one. Also, since the advent of the NAA (Jubilee) a new style piston (NAA-530-B) was invented that uses a rubber O-Ring with a leather back-up wiper/washer and this piston will also work in the older 9N, 2N, and 8N systems. Extreme caution: the 9N/2N system is different than the 8N and NAA systems. DO NOT START taking off nuts and bolts until you know exactly what you are doing and which ones to remove first. the 9N/2N system also used a 'wishbone' bracket connecting the top cover underside and this bracket linkage needs to be slipped off BEFORE you pull the top cover. Four bolts under the seat fasten the cylinder on and to the top cover and are not loosened until you get the top cover on your bench. Failure to comply with proper procedure will result in disaster. Once top cover is sagely off, cleaning the rest of the system may require dropping the pump too. Plugged chamber are the usual culprit in a knocking lift. get the manuals and a helpful D-I-Y video (see link) and read and watch before you do any wrenching.

FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 

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