Can someone explain this stuff to me?

hogluvr

Member
I'm gonna roll all my odds and ends questions into one post for simplicity, trying to wrap things up for at least a little while.

Q1 How does a tire that was loaded with liquid leak air?? Couldn't believe it when I tried filling it up. Only me... 🙄

Q2 How do the little pawl things work for the rear brakes, the ones that engage the serrated brackets that bolt to the side covers? Both of mine are dangling in the air. I now have a decent right brake, non-functional before because of the axle seal leak. But the left brake, the one that actually worked before, now just goes to the floor. Thought I had adjusted them about the same but? Thinking it's a combination of both required further adjustment and the dangling pawl thingies?

Q3 I didn't have any linkage to use my hydraulic lift so I am winging it, think it goes together something like this? (with the exception of the screwdriver lol)

Where do these brackets with chains attached bolt to?

Is this doohickey that the top link attaches to supposed to be splayed like this or is this another abused part on this poor old gal?

And does anyone know what size nuts I need to bolt the bottom arms on, and is there any more hardware required, washers etc?

I guess that's it for the moment, I'm sure I'll be adding more questions to the list. The good news is, thanks to all the helpful folks on this forum, what started out as a tractor that would run, had a bad axle seal and no hydraulics, has become a fully-functional workhorse again, minus the minor glitches mentioned above. Thank you to all for your help!!
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(quoted from post at 22:55:57 07/26/21) I'm gonna roll all my odds and ends questions into one post for simplicity, trying to wrap things up for at least a little while.

Q1 How does a tire that was loaded with liquid leak air?? Couldn't believe it when I tried filling it up. Only me... 🙄

Q2 How do the little pawl things work for the rear brakes, the ones that engage the serrated brackets that bolt to the side covers? Both of mine are dangling in the air. I now have a decent right brake, non-functional before because of the axle seal leak. But the left brake, the one that actually worked before, now just goes to the floor. Thought I had adjusted them about the same but? Thinking it's a combination of both required further adjustment and the dangling pawl thingies?

Q3 I didn't have any linkage to use my hydraulic lift so I am winging it, think it goes together something like this? (with the exception of the screwdriver lol)

Where do these brackets with chains attached bolt to?

Is this doohickey that the top link attaches to supposed to be splayed like this or is this another abused part on this poor old gal?

And does anyone know what size nuts I need to bolt the bottom arms on, and is there any more hardware required, washers etc?

I guess that's it for the moment, I'm sure I'll be adding more questions to the list. The good news is, thanks to all the helpful folks on this forum, what started out as a tractor that would run, had a bad axle seal and no hydraulics, has become a fully-functional workhorse again, minus the minor glitches mentioned above. Thank you to all for your help!!
mvphoto79154.jpg


mvphoto79155.jpg


mvphoto79156.jpg


mvphoto79157.jpg
ot 100% full of liquid. Always some air space at top. Pawls hold pedal down, once depressed & engaged. Toplink connection yoke looks bent.
Sounds like you don't have manuals?
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The nuts holding the lower arms to the pivot points are 5/8-18 NF self-locking nuts. The
originals were all-metal type, and that is what I use. The original part number is 356087-S8.
There is a 5/8 plain washer between the lift arm and the nut. I use hardened USS washers,
which are larger in outside diameter than the automotive SAE washers.
 
On the dangling pawl things:

They are the parking brake.

They engage the teeth in those sectors in front of them. The teeth of both the pawls and
the sectors need to be clean and in good shape for them to work. the pawls have to pivot
freely to work properly. Get everything in proper condition before using the parking brake.

The shape of the pawl includes a weight. The weight uses gravity to disengage the pawl when
you step on the brake. You engage the pawl by pushing on the pawl to make it touch the
sector and engage the teeth. On the 8N, each side works a little differently, but the
principle is the same. Experiment by pushing down hard on the brake pedal, pushing the pawl
into the sector, and releasing the pressure on the brake pedal. If engaged properly, the
pedal should remain down, and with pressure holding the brake engaged.

Do not get your finger between the pawl and the sector! Or any other part of the tractor.
 

Make absolutely sure the parking brake pawls are swinging freely before you use them.

I've got one N that my uncle decided to do paint job on, and I didn't think to check... Oh, the brakes engaged just fine, and held great. But when I stompped the pedal to release, those pawls just sat there, unmoving. This was of course with the tractor out away from the barn, in the sun, on a damn hot day... Took quite some time to get them loose, because you just can't put enough pressure on them, and get your hands down there at the same time.... We're at the foot of the mountain, so parking brakes get set tight...
 
Is that photo of something you own ? I was wondering were i could find a draw bar like that with the top link hook up.
 
The tires filled with fluid leak air because the are not completely filled with fluid. The most I have heard of is 90% fill, the rest being air. My tractor has about 75% fill.

The chain brackets are attached to the bolts holding the PTO shaft in. Remove 2 of them and slip the bracket under them. You might have to get longer bolts if the ones in there do not engage enough thread in the rear housing.

The top link bracket should not be spread apart like that. However, if the pin for it is long enough to go through so you can pin it in place it probably won't hurt. On my tractors those top link brackets are parallel and just wide enough for the top link to slip into. My top link pin and the snap keeper are held close by with short chains so I don't have to keep looking for where I left them.

You may have adjusted both brakes properly but they wear and need readjusting regularly. I find that the left on needs it more often because I use that brake more often.
 
Thanks guys, between that picture and your comments looks like most of my questions have been answered! Still trying to figure out how a tire with a hole in it can be (almost) full of liquid but lose air 🤔

Did not realize those pawls set the parking brakes, making sense now.

From the pick looks like those brackets with the chains attach by the PTO.

What kind of pins do you use to attach the arms and the top link at the top? Tractor Supply shows Cat 1 pins but look like they come in different lengths? And you thought I was done asking questions 😆
 
Ha ha you guys type way faster than me! 🤣

Q4 My starter button is bad and I ordered another, from the looks of things does it simply unscrew to replace it? When I was filling the hydraulics last night I felt up under there with my finger and it seemed like there was a large captive nut held somehow to the cover, is this the case? I just don't want to unscrew it and hear that nut drop down into my transmission!
 
Ha ha you guys type way faster than me! 🤣

Q4 My starter button is bad and I ordered another, from the looks of things does it simply unscrew to replace it? When I was filling the hydraulics last night I felt up under there with my finger and it seemed like there was a large captive nut held somehow to the cover, is this the case? I just don't want to unscrew it and hear that nut drop down into my transmission!

Yes, there is a nut on the bottom of the starter button. It is not captive though. You will have to pull the shift cover to replace the starter button.

This post was edited by Louis A on 07/27/2021 at 04:22 am.
 

The chain clevis hole goes to the top, the proper chain has 7 links. Its difficult to match the original chain and clevis length by using bulk chain and off the shelf hardware so I buy it for the application as a matched set.
 
(quoted from post at 07:15:49 07/27/21)
Ha ha you guys type way faster than me! 🤣

Q4 My starter button is bad and I ordered another, from the looks of things does it simply unscrew to replace it? When I was filling the hydraulics last night I felt up under there with my finger and it seemed like there was a large captive nut held somehow to the cover, is this the case? I just don't want to unscrew it and hear that nut drop down into my transmission!

Yes, there is a nut on the bottom of the starter button. It is not captive though. You will have to pull the shift cover to replace the starter button.

This post was edited by Louis A on 07/27/2021 at 04:22 am.
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Thanks, as they say a picture is worth a thousand words! Guess I'll never be done taking this thing apart!

And as far as those brackets go, looks like all the studs are broken off in the housing where they mount so that may not be getting fixed anytime soon, I don't have very good luck with easy-outs!!
 
You can get all of you answers in the Essential Owner/Operator/Parts/Service Manuals -best investment you can make -and read like your Bible. The 11-Hole Drawbar and the Stay Bars were part of the 2n-17003 shipping parts kit issued with all new tractors. ALL 8N's and up has the clevis bracket mounted as standard equipment on a new tractor, BUT, the Dearborn Swinging Drawbar which it was used for was a dealer accessory. The Dearborn Swinging Drawbar, the Dearborn VEE-Bar, and PTO adapter were also options. Best to wait til you get the manuals and read so you fully understand how each of these functions, notably the Stay Bars, so you don't do major damage to the 3-pt. lift. OEM parts are found around here and there but forget them for now. the Top Link Rocker also can be found as a used part, no longer made new, but getting the long link pin out is often a problem.


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FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER, OPERATOR, PARTS, & SERVICE MANUALS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
That top link bracket is shot and needs replacing before it breaks while trying to hold a load up. Somebody tried to spread it to put a cat 2 top link that is wider than the cat 1 top link that is supposed to be used with that tractor. And those chains if you notice the bracket is longer on one side of the chain than the other, there is a right and left to them and the short end of bracket goes up, putting them on upside down short part to bottom will keep the lift arms from raising and will make the tractor keep trying to raise the arms to correct stoping point. Hane a 41 9N, 44 2N and had a NAA and Ferguson TO30 all made same way for that part of hitch. The swinging drawbar will only work on the 8N, Naa or Ferguson as the 9 & 2N is not drilled for the front bracket for the swinging drawbar.
 
(quoted from post at 08:36:32 07/27/21) That top link bracket is shot and needs replacing before it breaks while trying to hold a load up. Somebody tried to spread it to put a cat 2 top link that is wider than the cat 1 top link that is supposed to be used with that tractor. And those chains if you notice the bracket is longer on one side of the chain than the other, there is a right and left to them and the short end of bracket goes up, putting them on upside down short part to bottom will keep the lift arms from raising and will make the tractor keep trying to raise the arms to correct stoping point. Hane a 41 9N, 44 2N and had a NAA and Ferguson TO30 all made same way for that part of hitch. The swinging drawbar will only work on the 8N, Naa or Ferguson as the 9 & 2N is not drilled for the front bracket for the swinging drawbar.
here were several swinging drawbar designs and the one I pictured with pivot just below PTO shaft will fit both 8N & 9N I do believe, but...the later 8N swinging drawbar that pivots further toward the front of tractor (near hyd pump) only fits 8N and later. That's the way I see it.
 

On your first picture, the one with the chain hanging from the lift arm, you need to get that situation fixed first. Those chains connect at each side of the PTO. Those chains keep the lift arms from from swinging over and hitting the tires. You don't want the lift arms catching on the lugs on the tires and ripping chunks out of the lugs, especially when moving in reverse. If you're not using an implement right now you can at least tie the two lift arms together to keep them out of the tires.
 
(quoted from post at 08:57:01 07/27/21)
On your first picture, the one with the chain hanging from the lift arm, you need to get that situation fixed first. Those chains connect at each side of the PTO. Those chains keep the lift arms from from swinging over and hitting the tires. You don't want the lift arms catching on the lugs on the tires and ripping chunks out of the lugs, especially when moving in reverse. If you're not using an implement right now you can at least tie the two lift arms together to keep them out of the tires.

Good to know, I'm having enough problems with my tires as it is 🙄
 
hogluvr, whenever a loaded tire is parked all the liquid goes to the lower half. If the leak is at the top half, then only air will come out of it.
 
Thanks but I should have explained better. When I pulled the tires off to replace the axle seals this tire was loaded, the other one was not. I emptied the loaded tire after it almost crushed me, and after I put it back on last night I attempted to fill it with air. I get it but I would think if the tire had a hole in it all along the fluid would've leaked out as well? Unless by some dumb luck I kept parking the tractor with the hole at the top of the tire??
 
Ok, I've got everything pretty much sorted out with the exception of this tire. Anyone have any ideas as far as a temporary fix? I really need to get this thing down to my new property and get a cut in.
 
That drawbar WILL NOT fit anything older than an 8N as there are no holes in the rear end housing to mount the underbelly bracket. That underbelly bracket is used with the Dearborn rear mounted loader and I was going to try to make a bracket to hold the orignal underbelly bracket so I could put that loader on but there was no way to do it. Your picture is the factory drawbar for the 8N that for pto use it requires the bto extension and the V hitch mounted on the lift arms and 11 hole drawbar to get the correct length for any pull type implement. Now the newer style swinging drawbars use those same underbelly holes to mount the front bracket and the rear bracket mounts to same bolts that hold those chains on and can be set in a short position for pulling an implement and left to swing as if you were using a drag type of disk or it can be put in longer position and used with just a 1 1/8 to 1 3/8 adapter and the hitch pin hole is far forward of the hitch pin hole on the drawbar in your picture. Those new style swinging drawbars CANNOT be made to work on any 9 or 2N tractors. There was a special swinging drawbar made for the 9-2N tractors that was sold with the Ferguson drag type disk so you could steer the tractor around the corners but in my 77 years I have not comme across any of them, only pictures in parts book for the disk.
 
(quoted from post at 09:53:35 07/28/21) That drawbar WILL NOT fit anything older than an 8N as there are no holes in the rear end housing to mount the underbelly bracket. That underbelly bracket is used with the Dearborn rear mounted loader and I was going to try to make a bracket to hold the orignal underbelly bracket so I could put that loader on but there was no way to do it. Your picture is the factory drawbar for the 8N that for pto use it requires the bto extension and the V hitch mounted on the lift arms and 11 hole drawbar to get the correct length for any pull type implement. Now the newer style swinging drawbars use those same underbelly holes to mount the front bracket and the rear bracket mounts to same bolts that hold those chains on and can be set in a short position for pulling an implement and left to swing as if you were using a drag type of disk or it can be put in longer position and used with just a 1 1/8 to 1 3/8 adapter and the hitch pin hole is far forward of the hitch pin hole on the drawbar in your picture. Those new style swinging drawbars CANNOT be made to work on any 9 or 2N tractors. There was a special swinging drawbar made for the 9-2N tractors that was sold with the Ferguson drag type disk so you could steer the tractor around the corners but in my 77 years I have not comme across any of them, only pictures in parts book for the disk.
ery good explanation. Got it.
 

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