TSX33 idle jet removal

Papillon · Jul 20, 2021

I am trying to remove a damaged idle jet but no success yet. Will heat help? What drill size and type of screw extractor, straight or spiral, is recommended? Any suggections? Thank you.

HCooke · Jul 20, 2021

How is it damaged? I had one break off. I was able to remove it with a dental ultrasonic device.

Papillon · Jul 20, 2021

(quoted from post at 17:39:37 07/20/21) How is it damaged? I had one break off. I was able to remove it with a dental ultrasonic device.

I tried heat, mouse milk and small drills up to 1/8 inch, then a spiral extractor. No luck. Now I have a brass sleeve stuck in the threads. I am afraid to go to a 5/32" drill, but maybe that is what I need to try next. Thanks for your reply.

deanostoybox · Jul 20, 2021

The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500°F but if there is rust involved 600°F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

Papillon · Jul 20, 2021

(quoted from post at 18:58:40 07/20/21) The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500F but if there is rust involved 600F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

I didn't heat it that hot. The 1/8" hole is slightly off center. I did order a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap and some round swiss needle files. Perhaps I can file out most of the brass and use the tap to clean the brass out of the threads. Wish me luck!

Thank you.

Royse · Jul 20, 2021

(quoted from post at 20:28:41 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 18:58:40 07/20/21) The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500F but if there is rust involved 600F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

Click to expand...

I didn't heat it that hot. The 1/8" hole is slightly off center. I did order a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap and some round swiss needle files. Perhaps I can file out most of the brass and use the tap to clean the brass out of the threads. Wish me luck!

Thank you.

I am wishing you luck!
In my experience, the best way to get them out is to boil the carb body in hot water,
so it is hot, and then turn it out before the ears are broken off.
That's not always an option, of course, but it does work well.
If your drilled hole is off center, I would tread lightly.
Or find another top half.

Papillon · Jul 21, 2021

If I understand your reply, I should heat it in boiling water and attempt to remove the jet while still hot. Is that correct?

Also, is the reason to remove the jets to be able to clean the passages behind them, because I do not see any obvious wear in the jets?

Thank you.

Smokeonthewater · Jul 21, 2021

He was saying he uses hot water before the jet is stripped... doesn't do any good on the one you already started drilling...

Jets are removed to inspect/clean/replace them and to clean the rest of the carb

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 07/21/2021 at 06:23 am.

Papillon · Jul 21, 2021

(quoted from post at 21:56:50 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 20:28:41 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 18:58:40 07/20/21) The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500F but if there is rust involved 600F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

Click to expand...

I didn't heat it that hot. The 1/8" hole is slightly off center. I did order a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap and some round swiss needle files. Perhaps I can file out most of the brass and use the tap to clean the brass out of the threads. Wish me luck!

Thank you.

Click to expand...

I am wishing you luck!
In my experience, the best way to get them out is to boil the carb body in hot water,
so it is hot, and then turn it out before the ears are broken off.
That's not always an option, of course, but it does work well.
If your drilled hole is off center, I would tread lightly.
Or find another top half.

It worked on another top that I have. Boiled it and the jet turned out easily. Now I would like to know where the economizer jet is located. I don't see any brass object in any of the other holes in the top casting.

Thank you.

JMOR · Jul 21, 2021

(quoted from post at 09:11:30 07/21/21)

(quoted from post at 21:56:50 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 20:28:41 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 18:58:40 07/20/21) The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500F but if there is rust involved 600F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

Click to expand...

I didn't heat it that hot. The 1/8" hole is slightly off center. I did order a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap and some round swiss needle files. Perhaps I can file out most of the brass and use the tap to clean the brass out of the threads. Wish me luck!

Thank you.

Click to expand...

I am wishing you luck!
In my experience, the best way to get them out is to boil the carb body in hot water,
so it is hot, and then turn it out before the ears are broken off.
That's not always an option, of course, but it does work well.
If your drilled hole is off center, I would tread lightly.
Or find another top half.

Click to expand...

It worked on another top that I have. Boiled it and the jet turned out easily. Now I would like to know where the economizer jet is located. I don't see any brass object in any of the other holes in the top casting.

Thank you.

conomizer jet is deep in hole marked and some carbs did not have economizer jet.

Papillon · Jul 21, 2021

(quoted from post at 09:11:16 07/21/21) He was saying he uses hot water before the jet is stripped... doesn't do any good on the one you already started drilling...

Jets are removed to inspect/clean/replace them and to clean the rest of the carb

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 07/21/2021 at 06:23 am.

Please don't assume I have only one TSX33. I have 4 of them.

Papillon · Jul 21, 2021

Thank you!

Ken(Ark) · Jul 22, 2021

Now I have a brass sleeve stuck in the threads. I am afraid to go to a 5/32" drill, but maybe that is what I need to try next. Thanks for your reply.

I have a caustic hot vat , but have not used in in 20 years . Eastwoods ? and other places sell small amounts of caustic chemicals . I don't remember which is which these days , but some clean cast iron and also eat yellow metals . You had to remove aluminum and brass before hot tanking your heads and block . It probably would not remove the jet completely or really make a noticeable difference but it would loosen the bond . A hot plate with a 6 quart pan on the shop table would do good . Gloves and safety glasses are a must .

Royse · Jul 23, 2021

(quoted from post at 09:11:30 07/21/21)

(quoted from post at 21:56:50 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 20:28:41 07/20/21)

(quoted from post at 18:58:40 07/20/21) The idle jet is 10-32 thread
No. 21 tap drill 0.1590

5/32 is 0.1562, still safe if your hole is drilled exact center.

Problem with an ease out is that in order to grab it expands the soft brass and makes it stick in the threads even tighter.

Heat does help. Normally heating the casting to 450-500F but if there is rust involved 600F is better. Something to do with rust giving up some oxygen. Let the casting cool back to room temperature naturally and you will find any brass parts much easier to remove.

Click to expand...

I didn't heat it that hot. The 1/8" hole is slightly off center. I did order a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap and some round swiss needle files. Perhaps I can file out most of the brass and use the tap to clean the brass out of the threads. Wish me luck!

Thank you.

Click to expand...

I am wishing you luck!
In my experience, the best way to get them out is to boil the carb body in hot water,
so it is hot, and then turn it out before the ears are broken off.
That's not always an option, of course, but it does work well.
If your drilled hole is off center, I would tread lightly.
Or find another top half.

Click to expand...

It worked on another top that I have. Boiled it and the jet turned out easily. Now I would like to know where the economizer jet is located. I don't see any brass object in any of the other holes in the top casting.

Thank you.

Sorry to be late getting back to you, but it looks like JMOR answered your question!
If you have to drill it again, or drill another one, use a left handed drill bit.
The left twist, especially if used in steps so the jet heats, will often turn them out.

Papillon · Jul 24, 2021

Sorry to be late getting back to you, but it looks like JMOR answered your question!
If you have to drill it again, or drill another one, use a left handed drill bit.
The left twist, especially if used in steps so the jet heats, will often turn them out.[/quote]

That's OK. I did use left hand drills, but that didn't help. I've been searching for a good set of round shank flat blade screwdrivers to fit these jets, but not much luck yet. Got some Klein ones, but they're too small. I may try Snap-On. I got one jet out by boiling, but the others won't budge. I am thinking of trying to immerse the pieces in either household ammonia or a 20% lye solution. They are both supposed to attack brass but not cast iron. Someone did mention hot tank solution, which is what gave me this idea.

Just got off the Snap-On site. They appear to have only 1/8" and 3/16" tipped flat bladed screw drivers in round shank. The Klein 1/8" is too small and I have a feeling the 3/16" may be too large. Does anyone have a source for suitable screw drivers?

Thank you.

This post was edited by Papillon on 07/24/2021 at 05:55 pm.

Royse · Jul 24, 2021

Hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers work well for me.
Pick your brand, but they may give you sticker shock.
Note the sizes on the handles. 3 and 16 work for me in most cases.

Papillon · Jul 25, 2021

Thank you for the info. I've ordered a set which should arrive Tuesday.

Papillon · Jul 28, 2021

(quoted from post at 20:50:30 07/24/21) Hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers work well for me.
Pick your brand, but they may give you sticker shock.
Note the sizes on the handles. 3 and 16 work for me in most cases.

The Forster screwdrivers arrived and they are superb; however, the pre-botched economizer jet just sheared off straight. It is now a perfectly flat piece of brass with the small hole apparently still intact. I will leave this one alone.

The two separate "experiments" of 20% by weight sodium hydroxide solution and household ammonia have not resulted in any attack on brass.

I have read elsewhere that heating the cast iron part very hot and then dunking in cold water will free up brass parts stuck in the cast iron without damage to the cast iron. Any thoughts on this method? Boiling did work on one jet, but so far not the others.

Papillon · Jul 28, 2021

Well, live and learn. Heat and lots of it gets the jets out. Also, quality screw drivers such as the Forster set.

Royse · Jul 28, 2021

I'm glad you got the rest of them out.
Your economizer jet will probably be just fine as is.
Be careful with "heat and lots of it".
I've brazed mounting ears back on these carbs with an oxy/acetylene
torch and I know the "cast" will melt pretty darned easily with that
much heat, even from a brazing tip. Wouldn't want any more.

Papillon · Jul 28, 2021

I used a map gas torch. It worked wonders.

TSX33 idle jet removal

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