Like Bruce says, you can go out and buy all new parts you can, replace, and you may or may not stumble on a fix. Wrong procedure for any problem. Use true root cause problem solving for any issue. Avoid 'guessing'. Determine if a part is defective before rebuilding or replacing. Most major parts are deigned to be rebuilt over and over. Your first choice rather than buying any cheap, Cheena made junker part. So, do you have the ESSENTIAL MANUALS? Should have been the first tools you invested in. Next, what are you running, don't say 8N as that means nothing. What matters is if a Front Mount distributor or an angle (side) mount? 6V/POS GRN or 12V/MEG GRN? Stalling out can be a few things. Did you perform the fuel glow test? Test for spark the moment it dies out. Learn how your setup is working and the how's and why's for that setup. If you don't now, don't guess ...my nest guess is the coil or distributor.... Learn or ask for help like on this board. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to mucked up wiring. Whatever setup you use, if it isn't wired correctly, you will have issues guaranteed. Many issues can be attributed to fellas trying to convert to 12V with no clue on how to do it right, but it doesn't matter if 12V or 6V, many 6V setups can be at fault as well, if the wiring isn't right for that system, you will have issues. Start with the fuel flow test with a cold engine. It could be once you start moving the tractor it causes the fuel to fluctuate, causing blockage. Get fuel right first then move on toe electrical. Get the MANUALS, read and learn. Leave guessing for lottery numbers.
Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. I wouldnt be shoving anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean.
FUEL FLOW TEST:
It's simple, easy, and takes less than half an hour. With tractor OFF and engine COLD, get a drip pan or empty coffee can and place under the carburetor. The Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve should be shut off when tractor is off. On the bottom of the carb is an NPT drain plug. Loosen and remove it. Position pan under it and open the fuel flow valve 2 turns. Observe the fuel flows at a steady uninterrupted stream about as thick as a pencil. You should have about a 1 pint of gas in 2 minutes. If so, turn valve off and replace the drain plug. Next, use a 7/16 flare nut wrench and loosen the steel fuel line at the carb inlet brass elbow. Gently take the line off to the side of carb and point down to the drip pan. Again open valve 2 turns and see if flow is free or obstructed. An obstruction can be caused by the filter on the brass elbow, remove and inspect and clean it, or the sediment bulb and/or screens are plugged, or the vent on gas tank i plugged, or all of the above. Take an hour out of your busy schedule to check this first. You can do much of the PM yourself on these N's.
FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:
The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.
FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
