Hydraulic control spring

Tenacres · May 5, 2021

Working on a tractor is a new skill set for me, but I've learned a lot by jumping in and doing some things I read about in the75 tips and the manuals, but some things make the assumption that I know more than I do. To the point - the triangular flange on the front of the control spring is broken and I have a new one, as well as the seat and a felt seal. I loosened the 3 bolts, but I stopped because I was afraid of what might happen if I pull the spring. Am I right to be concerned about the ramifications? (I'm a retired minister, pianist and house painter, and have done whatever I could do on my cars, but I know my limits.)

Jim Dickinson in central Oregon

JMOR · May 5, 2021

(quoted from post at 00:31:13 05/06/21) Working on a tractor is a new skill set for me, but I've learned a lot by jumping in and doing some things I read about in the75 tips and the manuals, but some things make the assumption that I know more than I do. To the point - the triangular flange on the front of the control spring is broken and I have a new one, as well as the seat and a felt seal. I loosened the 3 bolts, but I stopped because I was afraid of what might happen if I pull the spring. Am I right to be concerned about the ramifications? (I'm a retired minister, pianist and house painter, and have done whatever I could do on my cars, but I know my limits.)

Jim Dickinson in central Oregon

ou have to un-screw the yoke off the opposite (rear) end of spring first & that is usually the hard part. After that,there is not much to be concerned about & will be pretty obvious.

Tenacres · May 6, 2021

I didn't realize that the yoke comes off. That does sound better. Another job for tomorrow. Thank you.

Jim

zuhnc · May 6, 2021

The shaft and yoke are fine threads, and a lot of them. Penetrating oil for a few days, and then possibly the blue wrench - use gloves after the wrench. The yoke will be hot. Might take two people - one for the wrench, the other to turn. Anti-sieze on the threads when reassembling. zuhnc

Tenacres · May 6, 2021

What is a blue wrench? Why would the yoke be hot? I've been cleaning (and cleaning and cleaning) the tractor since September, prepping for paint, and I'm in the process of painting it now. I have pulled everything off it and drained fluids, so it's not running quite yet.

JMOR · May 6, 2021

(quoted from post at 23:38:25 05/06/21) What is a blue wrench? Why would the yoke be hot? I've been cleaning (and cleaning and cleaning) the tractor since September, prepping for paint, and I'm in the process of painting it now. I have pulled everything off it and drained fluids, so it's not running quite yet.

ust slang for a torch to heat the yoke...heat expands metal & sometimes lets it break free from the rust.

Tenacres · May 6, 2021

Gotcha. I tried heat to get the steering arm out of the pitman arm. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Thanks for the explanation. I'm going to have a go at it tomorrow.

Tenacres · May 25, 2021

I put a lot of heat on both ends of the spring, but the yoke still won't budge. Should I remove the 3 bolts on the triangular flange on the front of the spring? I'm frustrated with this. I've been spraying Blaster on it every day for a couple of weeks.

jimtrs · May 25, 2021

(quoted from post at 18:12:19 05/25/21) I put a lot of heat on both ends of the spring, but the yoke still won't budge. Should I remove the 3 bolts on the triangular flange on the front of the spring? I'm frustrated with this. I've been spraying Blaster on it every day for a couple of weeks.

Not sure what you're using for heat, but you really need the heat of an acetylene torch. You need to heat the threaded portion of the yoke. Put a long rod through the yoke to help in turning, as it will be too hot to touch. Get the torch flame between the coils of the spring. This is all usually done, and a bit easier with the lift cover off, and in a shop vise. Carefully not to break the threaded rod the yoke is on, or you will be pulling the lift cover off for repair.

Tenacres · May 25, 2021

All I have is a small propane torch. And I used it up. So, the yoke itself is threaded? It isn't visible in the picture in the parts catalog. I pretty much burned it down to charred metal.

I'm using a heavy 3' rod that's pretty stout. Maybe if I weighed more than 140 lbs at 6'2", and younger than 70, I might be able to get this thing apart. The only reason for doing this is to replace the broken flange at the front of the spring. I think I should have just put some caulk on it. Perfectionism makes for extra work sometimes.

JMOR · May 25, 2021

(quoted from post at 18:12:19 05/25/21) I put a lot of heat on both ends of the spring, but the yoke still won't budge. Should I remove the 3 bolts on the triangular flange on the front of the spring? I'm frustrated with this. I've been spraying Blaster on it every day for a couple of weeks.

on't do any good to remove the 3 bolts, because the triangular part can not be removed without removing the yoke, and spring first.

Tenacres · May 25, 2021

I think that what I've been doing would be labeled excessive force. I'll check around and see if any of my neighbors have an acetylene torch. Thank you for your help.

JMOR · May 25, 2021

The little pin on that triangular piece is taking all the torque that you apply, until it breaks or bends, then the draft control linkage that plunger it pinned to will try to handle torque as it bends or breaks.

Tenacres · May 25, 2021

I will hope that by leaving the bolts in, I won't have done any damage.

jimtrs · May 26, 2021

(quoted from post at 19:52:02 05/25/21) All I have is a small propane torch. And I used it up

Unfortunately propane does not get anywhere near hot enough to expand the metal enough. Lengthy heating only serves to heat ALL the metal, the yoke and the threaded rod. This defeats the purpose of using heat to loosen the yoke, and again, propane won't get the yoke hot enough anyway. Let the whole thing cool down then heat the yoke with acetylene. Probably take about 3 minutes or so. Don't need it cherry red, but need it good and hot. That makes the yoke expand, without all the heat transferring to the rod. That's how the yoke loosens up. Keep heating while trying to turn. You'll know when it's enough heat. Once it loosens, keep turning until it's off. May need to keep adding some heat as you go as it during this time the yoke begins to cool and can tighten back up. Go by feel.

I pretty much burned it down to charred metal.

Didn't hurt a thing using propane.

I'm using a heavy 3' rod that's pretty stout. Maybe if I weighed more than 140 lbs at 6'2", and younger than 70, I might be able to get this thing apart

I think that what I've been doing would be labeled excessive force

It's not brute force that loosens the yoke, it's heat. The rod is only so you have something to turn the hot yoke with.

Tenacres · Jun 4, 2021

I'm still working on the yoke, finally figured out exactly where the yoke threads are. I'll let you know how it goes. I appreciate your help. I was just speaking with someone at YT, and he recommended service manual FO4 for better detail.

Hydraulic control spring

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