Hydraulic and electrical issues

I have a 1948 Ford 8N front mount dist with ELI and Sherman Step up. Totally rebuilt engine and entire hydraulic system has been rebuilt as well. All new hydraulic pump mechanisms, top lift has new piston( jubilee style), cylinder ram, ram arm pin and gasket. ( Did not replace draft control pin), new complete PTO shaft and housing, 90w gear oil filled to bottom insp plate bolt hole.
Before tractor rebuild the 3 point would lift but bleed off quickly and never reach max height. After installation and careful 3 day process of adjusting top lift from the manual, and adjusting the hydraulic touch control lever and control arm connection to hyd pump intake valve, PTO spins, no leaks from above while running, a 3 to 5 second sequence of BUBBLES raising through fluid above hyd pump, and 3 point is dead in the water gentlemen.
Pressure relief valve tested and also swapped with another.
1) Either my top lift internals are badly worn? or adjustment is super messed up?
2) Or The hyd pump housing is done?, which at 73 years old is acceptable.
Any advice will be appreciated guys.
I have a electrical issue as well if someone is willing.
Thank you

All new hydraulic pump mechanisms

What exactly did you replace in the pump?

I have a electrical issue

Tell us about it.
75 Tips

1st step is to verify this:

Bruce the pump has all new everything other then the base. New pump valve chambers,valve guides intake and outlet valves, and springs within the chambers, cam blocks, yoke pistons, PTO shaft brass bushing as well as intake and exhaust control valves and spring, pressure relief valve as well. All brand new and all bores have recommended diameters and very good finishes.

Yes JMOR that has been done and triple checked The control rod isnt bent or anything and it meets hyd pump when control lever is about 3/4 towards the top.


12 volt conversion was crap when purchased, so new wiring and connections, solenoid, 12 volt coil and petronix electronic ign, new ignition switch battery and ammeter, as well as OEM ballast resistor
( not ceramic white) with junction terminal. its is currently wired this way. Since installing resistor i have straight fried 2 12v coils. tried swapping terminals on resistor as well but to no avail. OHMS are correct and volts are where they should be when hey need to be. Coil is also NOT internally resisted and reads 2.3 ohms guys. Again JMOR thank you for the diagram and Bruce for your time.

Thank you Bruce those tips have proved helpful over the past few months