Ford 8n slow loader

Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:44:55 02/21/21) Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.

First, check the drive between the engine and pump. Those have been known to wear out. You changed to oil, does it have a suction filter or screen? If so did you changed or clean that? If the problem is just in the lift, not the bucket functions, you could have bad packings in one or both cylinders. If the problem is both, the lift and bucket, the pump could be worn out or a relief valve stuck open/broken.
 
The drive from the engine to pump seems to be spinning fine.and I didnt see a screen or filter for the fluid. And its both bucket and lift they are super slow. I took the pump apart to inspect and everything looked good not worn out or anything
 
I would look at the pressure relief valve first. It is possible that it isn't seating, due to crap in the system, or a rusty seat. Tee a
pressure gauge into the pressure line from the pump, bottom a cylinder out, and see what kind of pressure you are getting. I'm not sure what
your system is capable of, you might need to research it. If the relief valve looks good, try increasing tension on the spring and see if
the pressure increases, if it doesn't it may be the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 11:27:48 02/21/21) Where on the system would the pressure relief valve be?
he screen will be inside the reserve tank where the larger low pressure line feeds the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 13:44:55 02/21/21) Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.

Take the hose from the pump loose at the valve inlet and stick it in the filler on the reservoir. Make sure its not going to fall out by tying it to the reservoir. Now start the tractor and set RPM to mid throttle. Observe the flow coming from the pump. If its flowing like a garden hose the pump is moving oil. If its just a trickle the pump is either shot. not spinning, or starved of oil on the supply side. Once you do that report the result and we can move to step 2.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:56 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 13:44:55 02/21/21) Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.

Take the hose from the pump loose at the valve inlet and stick it in the filler on the reservoir. Make sure its not going to fall out by tying it to the reservoir. Now start the tractor and set RPM to mid throttle. Observe the flow coming from the pump. If its flowing like a garden hose the pump is moving oil. If its just a trickle the pump is either shot. not spinning, or starved of oil on the supply side. Once you do that report the result and we can move to step 2.

TOH

Flowing like a garden hose seems to have good pressure from the pump
 
(quoted from post at 19:52:37 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 14:06:56 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 13:44:55 02/21/21) Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.

Take the hose from the pump loose at the valve inlet and stick it in the filler on the reservoir. Make sure its not going to fall out by tying it to the reservoir. Now start the tractor and set RPM to mid throttle. Observe the flow coming from the pump. If its flowing like a garden hose the pump is moving oil. If its just a trickle the pump is either shot. not spinning, or starved of oil on the supply side. Once you do that report the result and we can move to step 2.

TOH

Flowing like a garden hose seems to have good pressure from the pump

OK that's encouraging. Next is a pressure test. Do you have a hydraulic pressure gauge good for 3000 PSI?

TOH.
 
(quoted from post at 16:57:51 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 19:52:37 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 14:06:56 02/21/21)
(quoted from post at 13:44:55 02/21/21) Hello I have a ford 8n with a loader on it auxiliary hydraulic pump on the front loader body is the reservoir has hydraulic bucket also. I replaced all the lines and fluid because when I got it the fluid was contaminated with water and lines leaking bad loader wouldnt move at all so new hoses new fluid now loader will only go up with throttle all the way up and even then it goes super slow and can not lift any extra weight looking for ideas on what issue could be. I do not no how it ran before I replaced everything because the tractor didnt run when I got it.

Take the hose from the pump loose at the valve inlet and stick it in the filler on the reservoir. Make sure its not going to fall out by tying it to the reservoir. Now start the tractor and set RPM to mid throttle. Observe the flow coming from the pump. If its flowing like a garden hose the pump is moving oil. If its just a trickle the pump is either shot. not spinning, or starved of oil on the supply side. Once you do that report the result and we can move to step 2.

TOH

Flowing like a garden hose seems to have good pressure from the pump

OK that's encouraging. Next is a pressure test. Do you have a hydraulic pressure gauge good for 3000 PSI?

TOH.
I do not have one Ill see if I can get one
 
(quoted from post at 22:31:29 02/21/21)

I do not have one Ill see if I can get one

You will need a gauge with a short hose and adapters for connecting to various test points in your hydraulic system. Don't spend a lot of money. The gauges are not expensive - $15 for a nice liquid filled one. The hose and adapters can add up quickly. Post a picture of the hose connections on your loader valve . I should have everything you will need and it won't cost you sn arm and a leg. If you own a tractor and especially one with a loader this is a toolbox essential.

TOH

mvphoto70522.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 05:50:25 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 22:31:29 02/21/21)

I do not have one Ill see if I can get one

You will need a gauge with a short hose and adapters for connecting to various test points in your hydraulic system. Don't spend a lot of money. The gauges are not expensive - $15 for a nice liquid filled one. The hose and adapters can add up quickly. Post a picture of the hose connections on your loader valve . I should have everything you will need and it won't cost you sn arm and a leg. If you own a tractor and especially one with a loader this is a toolbox essential.

TOH

mvphoto70522.jpg

Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors
 
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/22/21)
Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors

Excellent. First test is at one of the work ports on the loader valve. I would suggest the one that raised the loader. Remove the hose going to the cylinder and svrew the the gauge into that port. Leave the hose disconnected while you conduct test. Once the gauge is in olace start the tractor and operate the control valve as you would to raise the loader. DO NOT move the lever to the lower position - that will make an oily mess!!!

With the lever held in the raised position you have the pump deadheaded at the gauge. If the pump and relief valve are working the gauge should immediately register and hold at 1600-2000 PSI. Hold that pressure for seversl seconds to get a reliable number. After running the test reconnect the hose and report the pressure you observed. Also post a couple pictures of the valve so we can decide where to go next.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 09:20:07 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/22/21)
Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors

Excellent. First test is at one of the work ports on the loader valve. I would suggest the one that raised the loader. Remove the hose going to the cylinder and svrew the the gauge into that port. Leave the hose disconnected while you conduct test. Once the gauge is in olace start the tractor and operate the control valve as you would to raise the loader. DO NOT move the lever to the lower position - that will make an oily mess!!!

With the lever held in the raised position you have the pump deadheaded at the gauge. If the pump and relief valve are working the gauge should immediately register and hold at 1600-2000 PSI. Hold that pressure for seversl seconds to get a reliable number. After running the test reconnect the hose and report the pressure you observed. Also post a couple pictures of the valve so we can decide where to go next.

TOH
So I wanted to make sure the pump was really good so I connected the gauge to the pressure line coming out of the pump it went up to 700psi then dropped all the way to 0psi and stayed there no matter what the throttle was at so Im guessing I have a bad pump just when it has a load on it
 
If you connected the gauge directly to the outlet of the pump, you broke either the gauge or the pump. Gear pumps MUST have some sort of relief valve. They are positive displacement pumps, and will build pressure until something breaks. I believe you were instructed to connect the gauge to a CYLINDER line; that ensures that a relief valve is in the circuit. If the pump shows no signs of external damage, then, most likely, the woodruff key connecting the drive shaft input to the drive gear is sheared. Pump has to come off and apart to fix that. zuhnc
 

Nothing broke checked it all and have good flow out of hose from pump into reservoir Ill get the reading from the cylinder
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:08 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 09:20:07 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/22/21)
Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors

Excellent. First test is at one of the work ports on the loader valve. I would suggest the one that raised the loader. Remove the hose going to the cylinder and svrew the the gauge into that port. Leave the hose disconnected while you conduct test. Once the gauge is in olace start the tractor and operate the control valve as you would to raise the loader. DO NOT move the lever to the lower position - that will make an oily mess!!!

With the lever held in the raised position you have the pump deadheaded at the gauge. If the pump and relief valve are working the gauge should immediately register and hold at 1600-2000 PSI. Hold that pressure for seversl seconds to get a reliable number. After running the test reconnect the hose and report the pressure you observed. Also post a couple pictures of the valve so we can decide where to go next.

TOH
So I wanted to make sure the pump was really good so I connected the gauge to the pressure line coming out of the pump it went up to 700psi then dropped all the way to 0psi and stayed there no matter what the throttle was at so Im guessing I have a bad pump just when it has a load on it

Zhunc has explained it perfectly. Start over with the first test - hose in reservoir - to see if the pump is still producing flow. If the gauge only went to 700 PSI good chance the pump was shot to begin with but we have know way of knowing that now.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 17:25:21 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 19:24:08 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 09:20:07 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/22/21)
Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors

Excellent. First test is at one of the work ports on the loader valve. I would suggest the one that raised the loader. Remove the hose going to the cylinder and svrew the the gauge into that port. Leave the hose disconnected while you conduct test. Once the gauge is in olace start the tractor and operate the control valve as you would to raise the loader. DO NOT move the lever to the lower position - that will make an oily mess!!!

With the lever held in the raised position you have the pump deadheaded at the gauge. If the pump and relief valve are working the gauge should immediately register and hold at 1600-2000 PSI. Hold that pressure for seversl seconds to get a reliable number. After running the test reconnect the hose and report the pressure you observed. Also post a couple pictures of the valve so we can decide where to go next.

TOH
So I wanted to make sure the pump was really good so I connected the gauge to the pressure line coming out of the pump it went up to 700psi then dropped all the way to 0psi and stayed there no matter what the throttle was at so Im guessing I have a bad pump just when it has a load on it

Zhunc has explained it perfectly. Start over with the first test - hose in reservoir - to see if the pump is still producing flow. If the gauge only went to 700 PSI good chance the pump was shot to begin with but we have know way of knowing that now.

TOH

Pump is just like before I re tested in to the reservoir and has the same amount of flow now I tested the port coming out of the control valve to raise loader and at half throttle only has 400 psi at full throttle only has 500psi
 
(quoted from post at 16:50:57 02/23/21)
(quoted from post at 17:25:21 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 19:24:08 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 09:20:07 02/22/21)
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/22/21)
Where do I start the tests? I got a hydraulic pressure gauge and connectors

Excellent. First test is at one of the work ports on the loader valve. I would suggest the one that raised the loader. Remove the hose going to the cylinder and svrew the the gauge into that port. Leave the hose disconnected while you conduct test. Once the gauge is in olace start the tractor and operate the control valve as you would to raise the loader. DO NOT move the lever to the lower position - that will make an oily mess!!!

With the lever held in the raised position you have the pump deadheaded at the gauge. If the pump and relief valve are working the gauge should immediately register and hold at 1600-2000 PSI. Hold that pressure for seversl seconds to get a reliable number. After running the test reconnect the hose and report the pressure you observed. Also post a couple pictures of the valve so we can decide where to go next.

TOH
So I wanted to make sure the pump was really good so I connected the gauge to the pressure line coming out of the pump it went up to 700psi then dropped all the way to 0psi and stayed there no matter what the throttle was at so Im guessing I have a bad pump just when it has a load on it

Zhunc has explained it perfectly. Start over with the first test - hose in reservoir - to see if the pump is still producing flow. If the gauge only went to 700 PSI good chance the pump was shot to begin with but we have know way of knowing that now.

TOH

Pump is just like before I re tested in to the reservoir and has the same amount of flow now I tested the port coming out of the control valve to raise loader and at half throttle only has 400 psi at full throttle only has 500psi

OK - since you didn't blow anything up with the first test I'd say your pump is shot. New ones are not expensive - post a picture of the one you have along with the drive setup. Also see if you xan find a data plate on the pump that might help identify it.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 17:53:14 02/23/21)
Here you go
mvphoto70603.jpg


mvphoto70604.jpg


mvphoto70605.jpg

Partially decoding the model number :

P = pump
2= form factor
9 = GPM
E = ?
H=?
L=left rotation
0=?
1=?

Next is what size and type of input shaft does it have. Unless someone can glean that from the model number you will need to remove it to check that. Replacement will run you about $125 plus whatever bits and pieces you need to make it fit the coupler and hoses.

TOH
 

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