Why are 2Ns so hard to start in cold weather. And why do they end up dripping gas out of the carb intake when they are being difficult to start in cold weather. System is converted to 12 volt and battery is fully up to charge. Put a good quality charger on it, let it take a full charge and then go into float mode prior to trying to start it. Might mention weather had been in the low 20s to teens to single digits or below zero.
Thanks,
Bill

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"Flatheads" in general had a reputation for being more "cold-blooded" than their "OHV" cousins.

Add an "updraft" carb to that and it's no wonder they tend to be ornery in cold weather.

Of course, as opposed to vehicles an updraft card was pretty much the norm on old tractors.

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While some post how hard it is to start their tractor, and others post how easy it is to start theirs's in cold weather, fact is all gasoline engines (diesel's for that matter too) do not start as easy in cold weather as they do in hot / warm weather.

A lot of things contribute to this. First off the condition of all operating system is more important than ever in cold weather. Bruce(VA)'s lengthy and detailed reply to your earlier post HERE outlines a lot of these points. The importance of every system being up to snuff cannot be underestimated.

Automotive batteries do not like very cold weather. This reduces the cranking speed and also reduces the voltage to the ignition system. Keeping a tractor in a warm area helps immensely (as would removing the battery from the tractor and storing in a warm area until ready to use).

Another has to do with the fuel not vaporizing the the same in cold weather, thus making it harder to ignite.

The cold weather brings out all the problems that do not affect starting in warm weather as much.

With that being said, they can and will start in cold weather when evrything is in good shape.

The other day,I started my '41 9n in 9 degree weather to warm it up and cycle oil. It hasn't been started in a couple of weeks,so I started it in my regular sequence of loading the cylinders with a rich mixture before trying to get it to fire. It started with no grinding,after maybe one revolution. One revolution with the key off,choke full,throttle about 1/4 gets a charge of rich gas into the cylinders and readies it to start immediately. It always works for me,but many poo=poo this idea that has worked for me since the mid '70s on flatheads.

That is the way I taught my kids to start our tractors too. They start them at -20 with the 6 volt systems.

Why do people post questions here, get answers, then re-post the same question 4 days later?

You asked this same question here on February 14th. I replied with a rather lengthy list of common causes of hard starting in winter, one comment addressed specifically to gas dripping from the carb.

Did you not see the replies on the 14th?

Not understand them?

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It's super-easy to flood an N in cold weather and requires a light touch on the choke, otherwise you end up with raw gas dribbling out the carb. Each individual tractor has its own idiosyncrasies, too, so what works on one may not be the best for another.

If you crank-crank-crank without starting, your plugs are also now coated with raw gas deposits, and won't spark as well. Dell, our resident 'sparkie-meister' (passed a few years ago), would often post about this. Pulling the plugs and hitting them briefly with a propane torch was one method for removing these deposits, IIRC.

My 8N spends a lot more time sitting now since I retired and we moved from the farm to a neighborhood. It fired right up yesterday in high-teens weather (and is still running its original 6V electrics). When we lived in IL, I'd regularly crank it up in single-digit and even sub-zero weather. Had to be super-careful, though, as if I didn't hold my tongue just right the first couple attempts, it would definitely flood out.

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