carburator?

jmczzz

Member
cranks and runs fine for 5 minutes. then stops and will not restart. gas drips out air intake side. How do i adjust the float without the special tool shown in the manual? or where do i get the tool or any other way to measure?
 
(quoted from post at 15:43:50 02/18/21) cranks and runs fine for 5 minutes. then stops and will not restart. gas drips out air intake side. How do i adjust the float without the special tool shown in the manual? or where do i get the tool or any other way to measure?
ssuming M/S N carb, I use ruler & needle nose pliers. 1/4"
 
Go over to the subjects listed on the left side of this page.
Scroll down to RELATED SITES and open Ford/8N/9N club(last one).
Excellent article with lots of pictures on carb rebuild

Tom/Idaho
 
(quoted from post at 13:43:50 02/18/21) cranks and runs fine for 5 minutes. then stops and will not restart. gas drips out air intake side. How do i adjust the float without the special tool shown in the manual? or where do i get the tool or any other way to measure?
y FO-4 manual does not show a special tool for adjusting the float, just a picture and text talking about the 1/4". Easy to check and easy to bend the float arms it necessary!.
 
jmczzz, When you try to restart the tractor after it stops running, it is easy to flood it, which would be your fuel running out of it. You need to determine if you have spark at the plugs when it stops running. If you have an old spark plug, open the gap on it to 1/4 inch, pull a plug wire off a plug, plug your test plug into the wire, lay it on the head and with the key on, crank the engine and look for a spark to jump across that 1/4 inch gap.
 
thank you Jim L
I PUT new point. plugs. wires. rotor, dist cap, last fall. dist cal not even dirty yet. i have adjusted the carb floats several times
I get it to run longer or shorter, but not stay running. i have not had anew gasket and the old one has gotton pretty torn up. so i figure a new one may be needed. i don't want to restore it just get it running well enough to sell. i had it 15 years and plow my garden, bush hog pasture scape drive. i am ready to retire. i have reread the club stuff i had forgotten on the carb. i don't want to do a complete card re build but guess i need to replace the torn and regged gasket. Any thing else you suggest as a must do to just get it to run to dell/ i put an af von here. for $2000, but would take 1500 i paid for iy 15 yrs ago. does that sound like a sellable price to you? thanks jmc
 
$1500 - $2000 sounds like reasonable, however I don't remember seeing where you said what tractor it is. An 8N should fetch a bit more than an 9 or 2N. Getting back to your problem, have you ever checked for fuel flow out the bottom plug of the carburetor? It should fill a pint jar in roughly 2 minutes. That would have nothing to do with the float adjustment. I would still check for spark when it quits running. Have you tried bypassing the ignition switch?
 
Speaking of float levels, think this was causing any problems? That's a 1/4" bit and the actual gap.

Float-level1.jpg


Someone had been in there a very long time ago based on the condition of the gasket. The old float needle had a non-metallic tip and a spring.

BTW the float is clean and sound. It's an interesting patina. :)
 

the 8n club wite up says to measure at the lowest point? if you do that this one is looks pretty close to your dill bit size to me? just looking at your photo
 
(quoted from post at 16:24:25 02/21/21)
the 8n club wite up says to measure at the lowest point? if you do that this one is looks pretty close to your dill bit size to me? just looking at your photo
It was hard to get a good picture, so this one looks a little cock-eyed. :D The floats tilted up a bit from the needle. The lowest point, towards the needle, was still way off.

I bent each of the arms right after where they split to get the correct height all along both floats. Each float is now as close to level as I can get them.

The brass is thin and soft. I took the floats off, bent a little, reinstalled, checked, rinsed & repeated. It was a little tedious, but now they're right. :)
 

i really need to learn how you did this. is that why my 8N cranks great runs then stops. the float adjustment is that critical? so the idea is to get the whole float level and 1/4 in space at all poits?
thanks Jim
 

i ordered gaskets for the carb they said they would be here Tuesday so i will do the plug check tomorrow now that is has warmed up a bit and the snow is melted some. i will jump the ig switch too even it is fairly new. remember you had me do this before when i was having trouble getting the points adjusted correctly. i got that done last fal and it ran good i hauled a cut up downed tree out of the woods for my fireplace with it and it ran fine. do you thoikn the point gap cou;d have gottn off or worn? thanks jmc
 
Jim L ok i put the new gasket in the carb after cleaning it up and blowing it out. I adjusted the float i think pretty aquritly and crank it up it started right up but stopped after just a few mins. i checked the spark with an old plug and it sparked strong. i started it a cpuple of more times but it would not stay running. i found a pint jar and will check the flow rate tomorrow. I had to put the battery charger on it over night. i will make a jumper wire for the switch. but i still think i have a carburator problem? any sugestions? thanks.
 
i did this hunk i used a 1/4 inch drill bit and long nose bent it around until it looked good on both sides front to back. it still ony ran a few mins and shut down? any suggestions? thanks jmczzz
 
i did it with a 1/4 drill bit bruce thanks. but it still only runs a few mins. any ideas? thanks jmczzz
 
You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:


With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?


Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.


And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?

Once you narrow the problem to spark or fuel, post back and tell us what you found (and how you found it) and you will get plenty of help to get your tractor running.



* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. Its not the color of the spark that counts; its the distance it jumps.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000043798748&gclid=Cj0KCQiAovfvBRCRARIsADEmbRKBdAvAmtFfOvYiYXR7T6NYiW57uyv5-dEKjVT_h2KogQNUUMsRixYaAlU3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
75 Tips
 

no, it took 2 mins 20 -30 seconds.
but there is only a gallon or so in the tank (IF THAT MAKES ANY DIFFERENCE)

SPARK JUMMPED USING OLD PLUG WITH ELECTROD BENT AS OPEN AS POSSIBLE APPROX 1/4 INCH.

TJANKS JMCZZZ
 


no, it took 2 mins 20 -30 seconds.
but there is only a gallon or so in the tank (IF THAT MAKES ANY DIFFERENCE)

SPARK JUMMPED USING OLD PLUG WITH ELECTROD BENT AS OPEN AS POSSIBLE APPROX 1/4 INCH.

THANKS JMCZZZ
 
(quoted from post at 18:39:27 02/23/21)

no, it took 2 mins 20 -30 seconds.
but there is only a gallon or so in the tank (IF THAT MAKES ANY DIFFERENCE)

SPARK JUMMPED USING OLD PLUG WITH ELECTROD BENT AS OPEN AS POSSIBLE APPROX 1/4 INCH.

THANKS JMCZZZ
ood enough
 

I point out here that i have followed all suggestions, test and procedures to the best of my ability.

However, my 8N still will not stay running but a a few minutes!

thank you, jmczzz :roll:
 
jmczzz,You say ,no, it took 2 mins 20 -30 seconds. but there is only a gallon or so in the tank (IF THAT MAKES ANY DIFFERENCE)
Put 2 or 3 gallons of gas in the tank and see if it will stay running.If it starts to die after 5 minutes or so can you feather the choke to keep it running?When it dies can you start it right back up and if so how long will it run before dying again with out choking it?
Do you have a Marvel Schebler carburetor or is it some after market china carburetor?
 

Are you turning the shutoff valve 2 turns or wide open?
If you are turning it wide open, you are picking up all the crap in the bottom of the tank, it can get lodeged under the needle and cause it to flood.
If you are opening it 2 turns, you don't have enough gas in the tank.
 

it is the original marvel sch... the fuel cut off at the bowl is hard for me to turn. I can only turn it about a quarter turn at a time so i lose count how many turns i have done. i kinda thought the fuel bowl and it's screen was there to catch the trash coming out of the fuel tank as well as the little tube screen in the carb inlet fitting? anyway, i just turn it the quarter-turn 10 or 12 times. so that would be 2-3 full turns. Now the gas leaks at the carb inlet because the flare on the metal line has broken off further and i have cleand the crud off. so i am going to figure i need to replace the bowl valve, metal fuel line, and the carb inlet fitting. but first i going down to a Caribbean Sea island for some sunshine and thawing out. so i will pick up the tractor work later. (that is if it does not sell from my ad in the classifieds).
I really apreciate everyone trying to help me and both you two guys as well.
thank you jmczzz
 

Compeling logic supports your suggestions. i will put more fuel in the tank, Will removing the fuel bowl and valve let the crud in the bottom of the tank come out with the remaining fuel? i guess I should catch it in a comtainer so i can see if that happens. then as stated below i will replace these parts. i have had the tractor 15 or so years and have had to do some repair each spring to get it running after the winter. frankly I am trying to retire and have an ad on here to sell it.
i will save my remaining life energy for my sail boat. thanks.

it is the original marvel sch... the fuel cut off at the bowl is hard for me to turn. I can only turn it about a quarter turn at a time so i lose count how many turns i have done. i kinda thought the fuel bowl and it's screen was there to catch the trash coming out of the fuel tankas well as the little tube screen in the carb inlet fitting? anyway, i just turn it the quarter-turn 10 or 12 times. so that would be 2-3 full turns. Now the gas leaks at the carb inlet because the flare on the metal line has broken off further and i have cleand the crud off. so i am going to figure i need to replace the bowl valve, metal fuel line, and the carb inlet fitting. but first i going down to a Caribbean Sea island for some sunshine and thawing out. so i will pick up the tractor work later. (that is if it does not sell from my ad in the classifieds).
I really apreciate everyone trying to help me and both you two guys as well.
thank you jmczzz
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:41 02/21/21)
i really need to learn how you did this. is that why my 8N cranks great runs then stops. the float adjustment is that critical? so the idea is to get the whole float level and 1/4 in space at all poits?
thanks Jim
This is my first time with an 8N, so I don't know how important the float height is here. It's easy enough to set to 1/4". I bent the lever holding each float until the float was level and 1/4" across it's length.

Bend a hair, put the float on, measure, remove it, bend another hair, etc. until it's where I wanted it. It takes a minute, but isn't hard.

I have several motorcycles with carbs and proper float height is critical for the best performance.

Have fun at that sea island! I work on my 8N for fun and mental therapy. It's always something simple, just a matter of figuring out exactly what. :D
 

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