Recommendations on PTO Shaft Kit and Hydraulic Pump Kit

Orion231

Member
So, now that I have the PTO shaft cut out, is there anything I should know in selecting a PTO shaft kit to install? I will go with the 1 3/8 inch conversion but just checking to see if there is anything else and if all the kit advertised are pretty much the same?

Also, I am taking the pump out to clean and/or rebuild. It looks like it might have been replaced or rebuilt some time in the past. It is pretty clean looking including on the bottom of the tractor. Any recommendations on what kit to use to rebuild it?

I will be finishing the top cover rebuild while I am waiting for the PTO shaft and pump parts but need to get them on order..

Thanks....
 

make sure the new shaft comes with a PTO cover. the larger shaft sticks a bit further out of the back of the tractor, and the original cap won't fit.
 
I replaced my shaft with an after market assembly. Discovered too late that there is nothing stopping the cover from pushing into the seal when screwed on. If you get a similar assembly simply save one of the retainer rings on the old shaft and install it on the new assembly between the cover threads and the seal!
JB
 
Thanks, I already got all the new parts (new lift arm bushings, new ram, new lift cylinder and piston, new cam follower pin, new quadrant shaft, and new position control shaft) for the top cover and will finish assembling it tonight..

Thanks for the tip on the PTO shaft. I have one on order and should be here in a week or so...

I will pull the pump out tonight and try to get the remaining piece of the PTO shaft out of it, clean it and inspect it for damage. So far, I see two "kits" for the pump rebuild. The only difference in the kits is whether the pump chambers are included. How can you tell if those need to be replaced?
 
So do I.

I also get the cam follower pins from CNH so that I can R & R them using the two hammer method (with a helper) without disassembling the linkage. I'm down to two vintage Fords now and both have new cam
follower pins so the single one remaining in my stores is more than I will ever need absent extraordinary circumstances.

Dean
 

You check the bore of the chamber and piston for damage... They will have to have some serious damage before I would can them...
Off the top of my head the chamber bore is .800 are .801 the piston is .799 are .800...

I have seen the worn well new ones worked no better...
 

You would also check the valve seats and valves for sealing if they look like they are sealing with no rust are pits on the seats are valve face run'em... You can conjure up away to check the valves for sealing...
 
Thanks for the additional info and the measurements.. I will pull the pump apart today and go through it to see if it looks like there is any damage or wear...
 
I have the pump disassembled on the bench now so I will check the diameters of the pump chamber bores. I am not sure how to tell the condition of the seats in the bottom of the chambers. I have a video scope so I will run that down in there and see if I can tell how they look.

I ran into some serious gasket sealer on pump chambers to pump frame. It looks like the gaskets were some form of rubber composite and they were glued to the frame on one and to the pump chamber on the other. It is almost impossible to scrape off especially on the frame since it is cast aluminum. Guess I will try some solvents and see what I can do to get them cleaned.
 
It does look like it might have asbestos in it... Think I will try some of the Permatex gasket remover and see how that works..
 
Ended up having to scrape the gaskets off... Ran the video bore scope into the pump chambers and it looks like the valve seats are not smooth so guessing I need new pump chambers.. Its just really hard to tell for sure.. My lift was working full range before teardown but I did have leak down problems with it over about 5 minutes...
 
Thanks. I decided to go with the full monty and replace the pump chambers as well. It just looks like the valve seats are too rough and I don't want to have to do a teardown again.. This way, everything will have been rebuilt in the hydraulic system.
 

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