2N coil

I'm putting the coil back on the distributor. I have the spring contact in place but am trying to figure out what goes in the other threaded hole that I'm assuming the other tab on the coil makes contact with. Took it apart over a year ago and don't remember.

What is screwed into the threaded hole on the cap? I can't quite tell. Is it just a screw?

(quoted from post at 12:47:27 09/14/20) What is screwed into the threaded hole on the cap? I can't quite tell. Is it just a screw?

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he two caps I have on bench have no threaded holes. The high voltage connection point looks to be possibly a metal pin pressed into a hole in cap?

Get your ESSENTIAL MANUALS out and review. There's NO threaded hole on the front mount that affixes to the coil. Pigtail contact under the unit to condenser screw head, yes. SEE "C" in picture. Did you set the timing correctly? Point gap is .015" and offset timing set on your bench according to the manuals. Test before mounting -see 75 Tips. Unit is mounted one way only, get it off 180 and you bust the base for good. Firing order is: 1, 2, 4, 3 CCW. 6V (12V too) requires OEM Ballast Resistor, 6V requires 1-Wire/3-Brush generator with the roundcan cutout. Starter Motor = 1-Wire Unit with NO SOLENOID.

FORD N-TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:

HOW TO SET TIMING:

RESULTS WHEN UNIT IS MOUNTED 180° OFF:

FORD 8N-SERIES TRACTOR OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING PICTOGRAM:

FORD OEM BALLAST RESISTOR -USED ONLY WITH FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:

FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:


HELP: The LH resistor Terminal Post connects to the COIL Stud Terminal Post as you face the back off dash. OEM Wiring is RED.





FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:


FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)



75 TIPS FOR N-OWNERS by BRUCE(VA)
75 TIPS

What Jmor said. That flat spring just contacts the distributor cap with a lead to the center post in the cap where the rotor picks up the spark.

I just got done doing my 9N 6V distributor. I took it all the way down. The front bushing was more worn than I'd like but I needed it running. Made up my own fixture for setting timing. Will post some pictures when I get my camera fixed. Runs a lot better.

It's still cutting out when it gets really hot, coil must be bad. I've got an Echlin coil from NAPA to put in today. The coils at TCS we so horrible the one they had was defective out of the box. The Echlin coil is much better made but twice the price (comes with a gasket too). Will try to get pictures.

I'm wondering if I can get new coil in without pulling distributor? I might give it a try as it's all still clean from removing the distributor.

(quoted from post at 10:22:36 09/15/20)
What Jmor said. That flat spring just contacts the distributor cap with a lead to the center post in the cap where the rotor picks up the spark.

I just got done doing my 9N 6V distributor. I took it all the way down. The front bushing was more worn than I'd like but I needed it running. Made up my own fixture for setting timing. Will post some pictures when I get my camera fixed. Runs a lot better.

It's still cutting out when it gets really hot, coil must be bad. I've got an Echlin coil from NAPA to put in today. The coils at TCS we so horrible the one they had was defective out of the box. The Echlin coil is much better made but twice the price (comes with a gasket too). Will try to get pictures.

I'm wondering if I can get new coil in without pulling distributor? I might give it a try as it's all still clean from removing the distributor.

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es, you can.

Maybe I'm just lucky,but I've had the same TSC coil for 15 years without any problems. It may go out Tomorrow,though.

(quoted from post at 13:37:53 09/15/20) Maybe I'm just lucky,but I've had the same TSC coil for 15 years without any problems. It may go out Tomorrow,though.

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The TSC coil I looked at didn't have the top on secure. It flopped all around, could probably fit a 0.030" feeler in the gap. The bail might have held it down when installed but that is just not right. The pigtail was very thick and stiff, if you were close to the limit either way on the advance, you'd have a hard time getting it to fit into the recess on the brass screw that makes contact to the breaker assy.

The Echlin coil was better made but did have some fitment issues. The plastic molding where the coil fits over the condenser area of the distributor was distorted to the point that the gasket would not fit without trimming it. The OEM coil did not have a lip in this area, the Echlin did and it was visibly distorted. I had to trim the gasket to get it to fit inside the lip. The coil was also a little loose once the bail was flipped onto it. I had to tweak the bail a bit to get the coil to seat securely. I checked the resistance before installing the coil, it was 1.1 and 12,000 ohms.

One other thing of interest. The distributor cap I used was a NOS Echlin (purchased ~ 25 years ago). It had a bad fitment issue. The lip which fits into the distributor was oversize, so much so it would not install. I spent about an hour carefully filing the lip to get it to fit.

The parts I took out of the distributor all seemed to be OEM Ford. Both the cap and the points had the Ford logo/script, they had been in this tractor since I purchased it in the late 1980s. That says something about the quality of original parts. I'd never messed with them since the tractor still started right up even in winter.

The old coil had no markings or script, I assume that may have been OEM too? The primary resistance was still OK, 1.2 ohms. The secondary was quite high, first time I had it out checked out at 36,000 ohms, today was 140,000 ohms!!! Funny thing the tractor still started and ran well until an hour or so of use then it would cut out, no spark.

Anyway, with new coil the old 9N is running like a champ. I cut a few acres with the 5' rotary cutter, it was pulling strong in 2nd gear in a field that had not been mowed this spring/summer. I've got a good sized field to mow tomorrow.

(quoted from post at 08:38:05 09/15/20) yes, you can.

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JMOR,

I did get the coil in without pulling the distributor. I'd not have attempted it if I didn't just have the distributor out and everything was clean.

It is nice installing the coil with the distributor out so you can check the primary connection to the points with the ohm meter, as you turn the distributor shaft. I was was worried about getting the pigtail in place on the brass screw.

Thanks to all here who have detailed and given advice on R + R the front mount distributor.