New here, looking for some input.

Rabauer

Member
Hi folks, it seems I contracted the 8N disease recently. Here is some background:

I was told it was a 1950, but the engine serial number is not readable due to a weld repair I assume was due to a cracked block.

Overall a very solid tractor. This is what I have done so far.

New exhaust studs and gasket due to exhaust leak.
New exhaust system.
Removed a gazillion mud dauber nests from air filter.
New plug wires.
Fixed govenor oil leak.
Wired headlights to switch.
Replaced valve cover gaskets.
Adjusted carb.
New oil pressure guage.
Replaced ammeter with voltmeter.
12V conversion done by previous owner.

I have ordered a new alternator because I am getting flaky readings on my handheld voltmeter.

The tractor runs perfectly now. However, the 3 point hydraulics appear not to be working. Yes, I had the PTO engaged, and have tried everything I know how to make it work to no avail.

My next step is to dig in, but would like to hear from the knowledgeable members here where to start. I'm hoping it's a simple fix, but not afraid to roll my sleeves up and dig in. I just don't want to assume it's the pump before I try the easy things first.

Thanks for letting me join, and I look forward to hearing from y'all.
 
(quoted from post at 14:53:19 08/30/20) Hi folks, it seems I contracted the 8N disease recently. Here is some background:

I was told it was a 1950, but the engine serial number is not readable due to a weld repair I assume was due to a cracked block.

Overall a very solid tractor. This is what I have done so far.

New exhaust studs and gasket due to exhaust leak.
New exhaust system.
Removed a gazillion mud dauber nests from air filter.
New plug wires.
Fixed govenor oil leak.
Wired headlights to switch.
Replaced valve cover gaskets.
Adjusted carb.
New oil pressure guage.
Replaced ammeter with voltmeter.
12V conversion done by previous owner.

I have ordered a new alternator because I am getting flaky readings on my handheld voltmeter.

The tractor runs perfectly now. However, the 3 point hydraulics appear not to be working. Yes, I had the PTO engaged, and have tried everything I know how to make it work to no avail.

My next step is to dig in, but would like to hear from the knowledgeable members here where to start. I'm hoping it's a simple fix, but not afraid to roll my sleeves up and dig in. I just don't want to assume it's the pump before I try the easy things first.

Thanks for letting me join, and I look forward to hearing from y'all.

Have you removed one of the side covers and verified the control valve linkage is connected and moving the control valve that is located In the base of the pump?

TOH
 

Not yet. I have a service manual, and that would probably have been my first move. I just wanted to get things running properly before I moved on.

Do I need to drain any hydraulic oil before removing the side cover?

Also, thanks for your reply. Most likely, I will dive in after work tomorrow.
 
(quoted from post at 15:40:31 08/30/20)
Not yet. I have a service manual, and that would probably have been my first move. I just wanted to get things running properly before I moved on.

Do I need to drain any hydraulic oil before removing the side cover?

Also, thanks for your reply. Most likely, I will dive in after work tomorrow.

No need to drain oil. You can also reach in through the opening and manipulate the valve directly to make sure it is moving. Use care if doing that with the PTO shaft running. Sticking control valve is a pretty common issue with these tractors.

TOH
 
"I have ordered a new alternator because I am getting flaky readings on my handheld voltmeter."

See tip # 47.

If you have a digital meter, chances are there is nothing wrong with the alternator.
75 Tips
 
I can tell you and anyone else that reads this where NOT to buy parts. There is a nice looking Website that leads you to believe
that they are the best resource for restoration of your Redbelly Ford. I just spent $146 for a list of everything on their site to
replace the seat on our families all original 1952 8N. It is all made in China and I paid twice as much as other places that are
honest and upfront about selling Chinese knockoff parts. I will get one from the junkyard and use it before I keep the Chinese junk
on our elderly family member.

nnalert Buyer beware.
Boowah
 
I sincerely doubt if you can find any new parts for 9/2/8N tractors that are not made overseas. Including spark plugs!
 

Steiner has a video on youtube that shows removing the hyd dip stick and give it a shot of compressed air. Somehow restores prime to the pump.
 
Since the pump on an N is in the bottom
and always immersed in oil they pretty
much self prime. It's on the later Fords
with engine mounted vane or piston pumps
that you need to prime them.
 
Don't know much about the US & World market do you? Why didn't you just go to the local boneyard to begin with? What Harold said, just about everything today is made in Cheena -one of things President nnalert is fixing so look for more USA made stuff after 2020. I do know that parts for the front mount distributor can be found as Made In The USA fro the right source. NAPA sells all but the ECHLIN CS-35 points (no longer good anyway) and CNH sells Blue Streak/Standard Ignition points, p/n FX-6769-X with the TISCO brands being decent as well. Here's the deal. Dennis Carpenter has been licensed by FORD to repop many original parts for decades, even owns and uses some of the original tooling. Most every 'parts supplier' buys his stuff, many mark it up, and then sell them as well a lot of TISCO parts. In addition many will also contract the Cheena made suppliers who make cloned junk and sell their crap as well. 8N's prices are relatively the same as others so highly doubtful you 'paid twice as much a others'. If you want so spend $20 on a cheap -a$$ Cheena carb, it's your call. I offer some good advice on these old Fords. ALWAYS rebuild OEM parts before buying new. FORD engineered all major components to be rebuilt over and over. Starters, generators, water pumps, carbs, distributors, hydraulics and more should be your first choice when doing maintenance. There are plenty of used OEM parts on ebay to choose from and a local boneyard also will have parts tractors. Seats pop up all the time.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
I am overseas. I travel the world a lot, so don't tell me about world markets, when I get home I will be going shopping at my favorite junk Yard. I understand your perception of people, because I have spent time in Mi working. Thanks for taking me back.

BTW, I know it don't mean a thing to people in Mi.about how anyone else feels,but I really do learn from your posts.

Keep up the good work, and thanks again;
Boowah
 
You are correct. But you will have to admit if it is made in China, then why pay $62 when you can buy the same thing at the flea market for much less? I should have been more explicit, but that was the point, just because it was at this beautiful website don't mean the Chinese seat is any better than the one at the flea market. Thanks for your reply, Boowah
 
(quoted from post at 15:53:58 08/30/20) I sincerely doubt if you can find any new parts for 9/2/8N tractors that are not made overseas. Including spark plugs!

In the last couple of years since I've owned my N the only US made parts I've found was a carb kit (bought it at TSC surprisingly) and repop headlight assemblies from Dennis Carpenter.Also a Faria ammeter. Everything else was mostly made in India, China or Mexico.
 

cvphoto54657.jpg


The best upgrade to date.....
 
I just went through the hydraulic mess,kinda intimidating at first,as all I could see was a bunch of parts run by the PTO
shaft. I dived in,pulled the PTO,pump and cleaned until I could eat off of the case. I made a cradle to pull the cover and
used a jack to remove the pump. I have arthritis,so doing it by brute strength was not an option.I used two pump valve kits
from this site and NOS Ford parts



that I was lucky enough to find on ebay and they were dusty in old dusty Ford boxes. Today,I started it up,hooked a blade to
the 3 point and it actually worked well. The Naa ram piston,O-ring and leather backup ring helped,as the blade stayed up
until I almost drowned in a storm. Good luck!
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:10 08/31/20) I just went through the hydraulic mess,kinda intimidating at first,as all I could see was a bunch of parts run by the PTO
shaft. I dived in,pulled the PTO,pump and cleaned until I could eat off of the case. I made a cradle to pull the cover and
used a jack to remove the pump. I have arthritis,so doing it by brute strength was not an option.I used two pump valve kits
from this site and NOS Ford parts



that I was lucky enough to find on ebay and they were dusty in old dusty Ford boxes. Today,I started it up,hooked a blade to
the 3 point and it actually worked well. The Naa ram piston,O-ring and leather backup ring helped,as the blade stayed up
until I almost drowned in a storm. Good luck!

Great that it worked for you! I'm hoping that without too much expense, and some elbow grease, I will get mine working too.
 
So I replaced the alternator suspecting the
old one had an issue. No matter what RPM,
the voltmeter only read 12V. After the new
one was installed, the voltage went up to
what it should be, but only after high idle
RPM. After sitting, same thing, except it
only takes about 1/2 throttle to read
correctly. Wiring is correct. What am I
missing?
 
not all single-wire alternators begin putting out current immediately. some require higher RPMs than others.
 

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