Governor Gasket

My 8N front mount is starting and working great, but it has evolved from an annoying oil leak around the governor to puddles. Never have
messed with this part, so it is quite mysterious to me; the governor works perfectly and I hate to do anything that could change that. I
have read to keep the top bolt and bottom bolt identified to avoid a problem on reinstall since they are different lengths; but what else
will I run into if I replace the gasket?
 
If the governor is leaking oil, the housing is probably warped from being over tightened. Pull the governor off and remove the small set screw that you’ll find on the face next to the gear. Grasp the gear and pull the guts out of the housing and set them aside. Lay a metal rule across the cover & see if it is warped. If it is, get a fresh sheet of 100 grit sandpaper, lay it on a flat, true piece of steel, and lap the face of the housing until it’s flat again. Do not get carried away w/ the sanding! You can take too much off. Reassemble and put it back on with one fresh gasket. Permatex Ultra Grey works well as does Copper Coat. Some folks have had good luck w/o any gasket; they use black RTV silicone glue. After both surfaces have been cleaned of oil and dirt put a good round bead of RTV all the way around the governor housing and then bolt it on. Allow about 24 hours to completely cure. And, do not forget to put the short bolt back on top. (tip # 1)
 

Just put Permatex Ultra Grey RTV on both sides of the gasket life will be good... Give it time to set up overnight will do...

You can do away with the gasket apply good RTV your call...
 
Thanks for the help; I'm wondering if there are things I can really foul up putting it all back together. I can take things apart, but if something can go wrong on reassembly it will happen to me.
 
(quoted from post at 20:42:44 08/19/20) My 8N front mount ... has evolved an annoying oil leak around the governor to puddles

Bruce & Hobo told you.

I'll add, They all warp. Even if you flatten it, after reinstall once or twice it will be warped again. I gently use a bench table belt sander to flatten stuff like this. Then RTV here is a must.

Nothing critical or should fall apart while removing, unlike the IH C60, 113, 123, etc where there is timing involved and thrust bearings to fall apart. Just get your linkages back in correct position. And if it's working good now, don't mess with the external spring, or linkage lengths.
 
49 years ago my Ford dealer told me to cut the ears off the gasket as my housing ears were bent like most are. That is what I have been doing ever since and it seems to work. I think the bent ear cantilevers force toward the main body with ears cut off. Little RTV won't hurt either.
 
My 2N has the same problem. Even more annoying when i'm moving along against the wind, it splashes oil on my vertical exhaust pipe, making it look like my new rebuild is smoking. After mowing season, I will be taking this apart and following some of the advice listed in this post.
 
Mine is a bit more than just a sanding thickness. I'll have to remove the ears of the gasket and use permatex of some sort to make this work without purchasing a new housing. I think i could stick a putty knife in one place on the flange.
 
Mine is a bit more than just a sanding thickness. I'll have to remove the ears of the gasket and use permatex of some sort to make this work without purchasing a new housing. I think i could stick a putty knife in one place on the flange.
Mine has the same problem. The plan is to fill up the gap with some Ultra Copper.

@ Jim in Eastern NC: It can also leak from the "dust seal" that is on the lever assembly. Mine leaks there, too.

I couldn't tell where it was leaking from until I removed it, then the leak points were obvious.
 

You can use what ever ruffles yer feathers, in my world we never use ultra red/copper for general use around oil... Ultra Grey is the most common used RTV for sealing engines by most all manufactures...

If you want to step up your game use "The Right Stuff" (trade Name) its bad arse as it gets...
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:46 08/20/20)
You can use what ever ruffles yer feathers, in my world we never use ultra red/copper for general use around oil... Ultra Grey is the most common used RTV for sealing engines by most all manufactures...

If you want to step up your game use "The Right Stuff" (trade Name) its bad arse as it gets...
I usually use what's at hand. It's all good. :)

I found this Permatex chart that's pretty says what's what: https://www.permatex.com/gasket-maker-comparsion-chart/

Looks like Ultra Black would be the way to go with regular RTV.

"The Right Stuff" is interesting.
Make leak-proof gaskets and return equipment to service immediately! Permatex’ premier instant gasket maker was designed as a replacement for conventional gaskets.
Any idea what it takes to remove it?
 
They just came out with fuel resistant RTV I was sent some by mistake I thought it was defective RTV and sent it back they sent me another tube I then read the label... It flows I though they sure have a bad batch out there...
 
Once you get it apart a razor blade...
It sets up pretty good then. Sounds like the ThreeBond I use for sealing cases that don't have a gasket. Sets up firm and does not leak. Not too bad to scrape off.
 

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