New Manifold

Delvaughn

Member
Been awhile since I have been on here. I replaced my 49 8N manifold with one from yesterdays tractors. There isn't enough
clearance between the nut and the manifold on the end nuts to get a socket on. Even a thin wall socket. Also the mounting holes
for the bolts was enough off that I had to use a rubber mallet to make it go on. The manifold is "thicker" an wont let the air
tube for carb to line up. I talked to a very nice woman at yesterdays tractor an she said they haven't had this come up before.
They are sending me another manifold. My question is anyone here had this happen to them?
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:05 08/15/20) Been awhile since I have been on here. I replaced my 49 8N manifold with one from yesterdays tractors. There isn't enough
clearance between the nut and the manifold on the end nuts to get a socket on. Even a thin wall socket. Also the mounting holes
for the bolts was enough off that I had to use a rubber mallet to make it go on. The manifold is "thicker" an wont let the air
tube for carb to line up. I talked to a very nice woman at yesterdays tractor an she said they haven't had this come up before.
They are sending me another manifold. My question is anyone here had this happen to them?

Unfortunately a common problem with Chinese aftermarket parts. Get ready for a bit of fine grinding.
 
I got one from here, had to do a bit of grinding for valve cover clearance, brass nuts had plenty of clearance.
 
I had to do the same when I got my new one several years ago. I had to grind room for the nuts on every hole. Very disgusting and I think that was in 2006. You would think someone would say enough already,
let's get this right, it's been 14 years and no change. And I don't think I got mine from here. Mine's a universal one that has to have adapter to fit on a TO-20. I know Steiners now has one thats supposed to
have the same slant and have a correct fit. Never saw one yet, so don't know for sure.
 
Sorry about the Ferguson reference, I see it says 8N.....it's time for bed and the old noggin don't work like it used to.....
Irv
 
Used he same nuts that the old manifold used. It isn't made in China the box said made in Turkey. Hope the one they send me works
better. If not will get out the grinder. Will have to use some kind of fexable pipe to hookup the carb to air cleaner also.
 
(quoted from post at 06:14:40 08/16/20) Used he same nuts that the old manifold used. It isn't made in China the box said made in Turkey. Hope the one they send me works
better. If not will get out the grinder. Will have to use some kind of fexable pipe to hookup the carb to air cleaner also.

I posted about this exact problem in another thread here just the other day. I guess you didn't read that one. The last manifold I put on my 8N was from YT also, made in Turkey. In that thread, I said "always test install a new manifold "dry" and make sure you can get at the brass nuts with a socket.

I also had to use a Dremel with a grinder bit on it to relieve some of the metal around just one hole to get everything to fit. That air breather pipe can be a pain but it will fit. Just make sure you use two new pieces of rubber hose on it. With new hoses, you can push them all the way onto the pipe so there's no hose sticking past the end of the pipe. It also helps to apply a thin coat of grease so those hoses can slip on the pipe. Once you get the pipe in place, then just slide the hoses forward. Without fighting those old hard hoses, that pipe will fit on the new manifold without to much trouble.

I had three sockets from three socket sets but only one would fit in there to get at those nuts. A thin walled socket is a good thing.

It can be done. Follow what I said and have a little patience.
 


This has been a problem for probably twenty years. A thin wall socket can help and another possibility is a U-joint socket or a crow's foot. sometimes you have to alternate back and forth between two tools.
 
(quoted from post at 18:27:34 08/16/20)

This has been a problem for probably twenty years. A thin wall socket can help and another possibility is a U-joint socket or a crow's foot. sometimes you have to alternate back and forth between two tools.

I think we have had this disagreement before. There is no possible way a crows foot could possibly fit in there.


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A die grinder and proper selection of rotary rasp would make quick work of this problem.
Do you need a special, thin wall socket?
Do you have cheapy sockets laying around somewhere?
Place the cheap socket on an extension and snap it on your air-ratchet.
Start up your bench grinder and place the socket at a slight angle from the grinding stone.
Start the air-rachet slowly turning and begin the grinding at low pressure.
Sometimes the McGyver approach is in order.
 
(quoted from post at 19:22:14 08/16/20)
(quoted from post at 18:27:34 08/16/20)

This has been a problem for probably twenty years. A thin wall socket can help and another possibility is a U-joint socket or a crow's foot. sometimes you have to alternate back and forth between two tools.

I think we have had this disagreement before. There is no possible way a crows foot could possibly fit in there.


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OK Cary, I am not going to disagree with you but I have removed and replaced many different manifolds and a crow's foot was part of the solution on the last one. My point was simply that the more common tools sometimes don't get the job done and that additional ones are sometimes needed.
 

Showcrop, The point is that we are talking about an 8N, not some other tractor. We were talking about an 8N the last time I told you that a crowfoot wrench would be of no help on an 8N. Do you get the point?
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:24 08/16/20)
Showcrop, The point is that we are talking about an 8N, not some other tractor. We were talking about an 8N the last time I told you that a crowfoot wrench would be of no help on an 8N. Do you get the point?

Oh Cary great one. So good of you to keep such close track of posts, I have no such inclination. I have found that most work that I do on various pieces of equipment, machines, and tractors I use the same tools and the same basic methods, so what works well for an assembly or a problem on one will often or usually work on another brand or totally different piece of equipment. I have never worked on an N but I have had first times of working on many different brands and models. My tractors are/have been Case, David Brown, Oliver, and Kubota, but mostly Fords from 1957 to 1996. Along with many different brands of trucks and cars. I have always worked out of the same tool chest on them all. I apologize for asserting that a tool that worked on another tractor could be used on an N. What gun would you like me to use to shoot myself with? Do you require proof? I am planning to visit another forum member soon and could have him record and post it if necessary. Again my deepest apologies oh great one!
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:32 08/17/20)
(quoted from post at 20:29:24 08/16/20)
Showcrop, The point is that we are talking about an 8N, not some other tractor. We were talking about an 8N the last time I told you that a crowfoot wrench would be of no help on an 8N. Do you get the point?

Oh Cary great one. So good of you to keep such close track of posts, I have no such inclination. I have found that most work that I do on various pieces of equipment, machines, and tractors I use the same tools and the same basic methods, so what works well for an assembly or a problem on one will often or usually work on another brand or totally different piece of equipment. I have never worked on an N but I have had first times of working on many different brands and models. My tractors are/have been Case, David Brown, Oliver, and Kubota, but mostly Fords from 1957 to 1996. Along with many different brands of trucks and cars. I have always worked out of the same tool chest on them all. I apologize for asserting that a tool that worked on another tractor could be used on an N. What gun would you like me to use to shoot myself with? Do you require proof? I am planning to visit another forum member soon and could have him record and post it if necessary. Again my deepest apologies oh great one!

I know you are just trying to help the OP here as I am. But to give the same wrong advice twice on the same subject is just not a good thing. What if the OP ran out and bought a set of crow foot wrenches on your advice? Although with him owning an 8N, he would know that a crow foot wrench would be of no use in this application.

Tell me this, should I have not said anything about a crow foot wrench being of no use in this case on his 8N?
 
(quoted from post at 19:53:12 08/16/20) A die grinder and proper selection of rotary rasp would make quick work of this problem.
Do you need a special, thin wall socket?
Do you have cheapy sockets laying around somewhere?
Place the cheap socket on an extension and snap it on your air-ratchet.
Start up your bench grinder and place the socket at a slight angle from the grinding stone.
Start the air-rachet slowly turning and begin the grinding at low pressure.
Sometimes the McGyver approach is in order.

Your post got me to thinking. I purchased a set of air tools many many years ago. In that case is a die grinder and an air ratchet and some other tools. I don't think I've ever used anything from that case. I know I still have it. Maybe I should dig it out and keep it more visible in my shed. I just purchase a good new compressor less than a year ago.

You guys ever run across tools you didn't remember that you had?
 

I know you meant good : ) a crows feet taint gonna do it : (...

Making it work is part of the game to me I don't like it but can get out of most jams even if I have to make a tool and that my friend is the fun part..
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:32 08/17/20)
(quoted from post at 20:29:24 08/16/20)
Showcrop, The point is that we are talking about an 8N, not some other tractor. We were talking about an 8N the last time I told you that a crowfoot wrench would be of no help on an 8N. Do you get the point?

Oh Cary great one. So good of you to keep such close track of posts, I have no such inclination. I have found that most work that I do on various pieces of equipment, machines, and tractors I use the same tools and the same basic methods, so what works well for an assembly or a problem on one will often or usually work on another brand or totally different piece of equipment. I have never worked on an N but I have had first times of working on many different brands and models. My tractors are/have been Case, David Brown, Oliver, and Kubota, but mostly Fords from 1957 to 1996. Along with many different brands of trucks and cars. I have always worked out of the same tool chest on them all. I apologize for asserting that a tool that worked on another tractor could be used on an N. What gun would you like me to use to shoot myself with? Do you require proof? I am planning to visit another forum member soon and could have him record and post it if necessary. Again my deepest apologies oh great one!
Get a rope!" :)
 
Agree that it is a problem that existed for over 20 years now, however the brass nuts went out in the 50's. If you stop by a machine shop and pick up some more recent style manifold nuts the hex size will be smaller and no grinding is required. I die ground on one of these re-pop manifolds years ago, never again, getting the the right size hex is easier and they do not seize. The brass nut requirement is just another internet perpetuated myth.
 

Hmmm, got a manifold and brass nuts for my early 8N from YT about three years ago (maybe four). No fitment issues at all. Air cleaner lined up, socket went on the nuts, cleared the valve covers, exhaust pipe hooked up fine. Did I just get lucky?
 
(quoted from post at 18:29:21 08/20/20)
Hmmm, got a manifold and brass nuts for my early 8N from YT about three years ago (maybe four). No fitment issues at all. Air cleaner lined up, socket went on the nuts, cleared the valve covers, exhaust pipe hooked up fine. Did I just get lucky?

Did it say "Made in Turkey" on the manifold?
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:22 08/21/20)
Made in Turkey? Don't recall any markings on it.

The last 8N manifold I got from YT had "Made In Turkey" cast into it. I had to do some grinding on it.
 
Getting back to the OP . . . just installed a new manifold from YT - box said Tisco Made in Turkey. Had no issues . . . old came off leaving studs in place, on the new one clearances for valve covers and 4 nuts/studs were tight but no issues. Reinstalling the air intake was a booger but no more than last time as I recall - probably would have been easier if I'd bought new hose - and of course the pain is I'll need to remove & re-fight it to re-torque #4. Used Thermosteel and Clingfilm squished down w/ a wooden block made to fit rather than using whole manifold - much easier to handle. Installed gaskets w/ just a smidgen of Peratex Copper on #4 otherwise naked. Time will tell.
 
(quoted from post at 19:31:28 08/27/20) Getting back to the OP . . . just installed a new manifold from YT - box said Tisco Made in Turkey. Had no issues . . . old came off leaving studs in place, on the new one clearances for valve covers and 4 nuts/studs were tight but no issues. Reinstalling the air intake was a booger but no more than last time as I recall - probably would have been easier if I'd bought new hose - and of course the pain is I'll need to remove & re-fight it to re-torque #4. Used Thermosteel and Clingfilm squished down w/ a wooden block made to fit rather than using whole manifold - much easier to handle. Installed gaskets w/ just a smidgen of Peratex Copper on #4 otherwise naked. Time will tell.

When you remove that air cleaner pipe to re-torque, do yourself a BIG favor and use new rubber hoses. Grease the pipe and the inside of the hoses so they will slide all the way on the pipe. Then hold the pipe in place and slide the hoses onto the carb. You will find that those new hoses make it 100% easier. It also helps to have a helper.
 

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