Left Coast Geek
Member
it was running a little rough, and my son was using it to push stuff up into a slash pile for burning later in the winter... it boiled over (the radiator is toast), and blooshed the whole front of the engine in coolant. he burned out the starter motor trying to get it running, so I put a new 12V starter, solenoid, and new battery cables (old ones were in poor shape). I also had added a 10W solar battery charger so the battery wouldn't die when left parked for months.
before I started to take it apart, it would crank and crank, and barely chuffachufffa a few times if I modulate the choke while cranking before stopping. plenty of fuel smell in the exhaust gas.
when I pulled the original plugs they were black and fouled, so I gapped and put in a new set of plugs, same symptoms, occasional chuffa-chuffa-chuffa-wheeze (stop) after cranking if I have the throttle and choke just so, no sustained running.
my next step (today) will be to pull the distributor and go through the points, make sure they are gapped and static timed correctly (seen the diagrams)
then I plan on pulling hte 'new' plugs and doing a compression test on all 4. while I have the plugs out and battery back connected, I'll also check the spark.
(btw, my electronics engineering experience encompasses DC, AC, RF, and digital... I well know the difference between DC resistance and AC impedance and reactance, and I know about things like dwell and advance on older breaker point based ignition systems such as 1960s VWs).
~3.5 ohms, is that for a 12V system?
before I started to take it apart, it would crank and crank, and barely chuffachufffa a few times if I modulate the choke while cranking before stopping. plenty of fuel smell in the exhaust gas.
when I pulled the original plugs they were black and fouled, so I gapped and put in a new set of plugs, same symptoms, occasional chuffa-chuffa-chuffa-wheeze (stop) after cranking if I have the throttle and choke just so, no sustained running.
my next step (today) will be to pull the distributor and go through the points, make sure they are gapped and static timed correctly (seen the diagrams)
then I plan on pulling hte 'new' plugs and doing a compression test on all 4. while I have the plugs out and battery back connected, I'll also check the spark.
(btw, my electronics engineering experience encompasses DC, AC, RF, and digital... I well know the difference between DC resistance and AC impedance and reactance, and I know about things like dwell and advance on older breaker point based ignition systems such as 1960s VWs).
~3.5 ohms, is that for a 12V system?