Paint for repainting motor on a 8N

FarmerHR

Member
Am redoing our 8N that has been a wonderful tractor for us. Am getting ready to pressure wash the engine before repainting.
Can I use the same paint that was used on the rear of the tractor to repaint the engine ?
Is there some special paint that should be used ?
Just trying to redo it so it will rust a little less. It will be used on our farm only and not for show etc.
Many thanks for any help you can give me.
 
As long as it's good and clean, the regular red paint has held up
pretty good for me on all but the manifold. Obvious heat issues there.
I use VHT brand ceramic header paint on the manifolds.

8N
mvphoto59736.jpg


mvphoto59737.jpg


Jubilee
mvphoto59738.jpg
 
Plan on doing a full restoration? Just cleaning before painting isn't enough as the paint will chip away after a few years or less. Removing the parts and blasting, priming, and then painting will make it last another 60/80 years. On a budget? I use the TISCO paints, made in the USA by the Van Sickle Paint Co. I'd advise that every FORD labeled paint, regardless of brand, is too orangy for the 8N Vermillion. TISCO IHC RED TP-110 is the closest match and their grey is a close match too.

FORD TRACTOR TISCO PAINT SHADES:
LrEDoKDh.jpg

9tPhCaUh.jpg

9N/2N = TISCO FORD DARK GREY M-2888

8N = FORD VERMILLION (RED)M-2822 - TISCO IH TP110 CLOSEST MATCH

8N (AND UP) = FORD MEDIUM GREY M-13243 - TISCO TP-240

8N (AND UP) = *CNH IRON-GARD© ®™ M1J-957 SE4DS

*NOTE: CNH brand says used '39/62' but that isn't right. This is the FORD MEDIUM GREY and not used on the 39-47 Models. CNH no longer makes a Ford M2888 Dark Grey shade.

Tim Daley(MI)
 


Yes, same color as the rear end. If you want it to last clean it good with dollar store oven cleaner, rinse it good and spray it down with a solvent like acetone, then prime it. The starter and generator were painted red at the factory.
 
Color changes tend to be modernized by the paint suppliers so as to obsolete and not have to stock the older colors. If one were to change the pictured paint labels changing the Tisco Med Gray dates to 48-57, the M1J-957 to state 1958 up they would be be very be much as originals. We had both new Fords and Farmalls in the 50's, they were not the same reds, Farmall red was darker and slightly flatter. Who knows what todays paints resemble. I'm sure the Tisco IHC red is fine. I'm really liking the Coronado Rust Scat OSHA red I'm doing on my 960 now. Nice glossy red, not at all orangeish.
 
(quoted from post at 10:53:00 08/04/20) Color changes tend to be modernized by the paint suppliers so as to obsolete and not have to stock the older colors. If one were to change the pictured paint labels changing the Tisco Med Gray dates to 48-57, the M1J-957 to state 1958 up they would be be very be much as originals. We had both new Fords and Farmalls in the 50's, they were not the same reds, Farmall red was darker and slightly flatter. Who knows what todays paints resemble. I'm sure the Tisco IHC red is fine. I'm really liking the Coronado Rust Scat OSHA red I'm doing on my 960 now. Nice glossy red, not at all orangeish.


Gaspump, the correct red for your 960 is the vermillion, same as the 8N and NAA, as opposed to the orange red of the XX1 Fords. The tractor manufacturers decided on their colors and ordered them from the paint manufacturers who supplied what was ordered.
 
Correct, as I mentioned earlier I prefered the red by Centari that John Smith listed for 8N's and 100's, now Centari is owned by Axalta so don't know how their colors stack up. My 960 is a worker so did not
want to spend the bucks for top of the line paint either. In the past I always used TruValue Xo-Rust Xo6 red for worker 8N's and 100 series, no longer available so I went hunting for a sutible 8N-100 series
red. Of the samples I got he Coronado Rust-Scat OSHA red suited me best. Many folks use the Case NH 956 & 957 Vermillion and gray, they are the 101 colors very close to that series original. The 101 series
red Is way to orangeish to suit me and Coronados red has none of that. It's sad, over the years I collected and have books of original paint codes for all kinds of equipment but in the OEM days most paints
contained lead and often are no longer matchable when converted to new formulatins. So finding what suits your taste and wallet is the most important thing. When I was at Ford I worked in Dealer Relations, the
folks that studied and almost mandated repainting trade in Fords the current colors. One reason you see the early colors dropping off the parts list and 101 reds and grays being listed on the CNH can as being
correct for 48-62.
 
You don't state whether you plan to use rattle cans or a paint gun.
A paint gun will do a better, longer lasting job on whatever you paint with it. If you use a spray gun spend the extra $20? and use a hardener. It makes the paint much shinier and is tougher. Use the same paint on the engine as the rear end.
I don't make jewlery so I just buy whatever brand is cheap - but always with a hardener.
I'm currently using some Tisco paint. I bought about 40 quarts of it a few years ago. I suppose a real body man would crap his pants if he heard this but I use any old brand of hardener with it. Most brands of tractor/implement enamel are pretty similar in formula so I don't worry about the small stuff ie same brand hardener, reducer, etc.
Don't forget that you can use a brush on your tractor too. Buy a good "china bristle" brush and have at it. Brush painting your tractor is Ford Approved :)

cvphoto52441.jpg




This Blue thing is off a later model Ford. It was brush painted. Brushing usually requires 2 coats btw.

cvphoto52436.jpg


Here's some rims and centers I brush painted too.

cvphoto52438.jpg




cvphoto52440.jpg
 
Thank you for answering my question and giving me additional helpful information. It is very much appreciated.
Best wishes to some great people !
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top