Are you set up with the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or have you or someone else done a 12V switch over job? Don’t buy any new parts just yet –you need to determine if the old can be rebuilt or fixed. I would say with 95% certainty that it is NOT your coil or condenser. Did you or the previous owner mount the front distributor wrong? If it is 180° off, the offset male tang on the front mount distributor isn't set correctly to the engine female cam it will not bolt down flush and you will crack the distributor base the first time you try and fire it up, SEE PICTURE. When that happens the base is junk as it can’t be used or fixed. Get the essential manuals and read, read, read. Know how to set the timing correctly. Gap is .015” +/- .001” and buy quality parts –SEE LIST BELOW. I will rebuild, test, and guarantee your front mount distributor if you want –email is open. I am not an advocate of buying new aftermarket parts. FORD designed all major components to be rebuilt over and over and should be your first choice when doing any work. No need to buy newer Cheena made POS junkers.
You can static test a front mount square can coil easily. Take your 6V coil off and set your VOM to OHMS. Place one probe on the pigtail wire and the other probe (polarity unimportant) on the top terminal post. Your 6V coil should read about 1.5 OHMS +/-. A 12V coil will be more, about double. However, it does not guarantee that the coil is good –will need to determine that when it gets heated up. You (or I) don’t have the proper and very expensive test equipment to troubleshoot a coil.
Incorrect wiring is 99% of most non-starting issues whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. Just because you have a 12V battery does not ensure you have it wired correctly. The same is true with a 6V battery. Don’t assume – verify with confirmed actual data. Get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and JMOR’s WIRING PICTOGRAMS to map the electrical system. If you have a 12V system, are the generator and voltage regulator removed and an alternator installed? Do you have the OEM Ballast Resistor in place and wired correctly? You need it on both the 6V and the 12V setups. If using a 6V coil, you will need an external ceramic 1-OHM resistor in-line. There are only 3 brands (that I’ve found) of points that are good. Standard Ignition/Blue Streak/CNH/TISCO as the others I tested are all junk and can’t be timed. Set Breaker Points and set the timing per manuals. Once tested and assembled, install plug wires –firing order is: 1,2,4,3.
Disconnect battery and lights. Have battery tested not just charged. Lights can be reconnected after you get system running properly. Battery cables for a 6V need to be HD, thick. 12V cables are smaller diameter, like your car or truck. Generator (or alternator) must have a belt tension device attached. Lack of belt tension will result in a no-charging scenario.
Get the manuals -(MPC, I&T FO-4, & 8N Owner’s Manual area must). Get the wiring Pictograms by JMOR. Get “75 Tips For N-Owners” by Bruce(VA). Test coil. Verify wiring is correct. Verify distributor isn’t cracked as shown at tangs. Verify distributor timing is set correctly. Test unit before mounting via Bruce(VA). Mount distributor correctly. Test unit before firing up tractor. Use your VOM set to CONTINUITY and NOT a test light. Follow these measures and I promise you will have a good running tractor. Get the electrical right first, then you can work on the fuel test.
FORD 8N TRACTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS:
*PICTOGRAM courtesy of JMOR
FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR – WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180° OFF:
FORD N-TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
HOW TO SET TIMING:
FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:
PARTS:
FYI: *ECHLIN/NAPA POINTS #CS-35 are no longer any good quality-wise.
1. BREAKER POINTS:
*ECHLIN - #CS35 (NO LONGER A QUALITY PART –DON’T USE)
STANDARD IGNITION/BLUE STREAK - #FD-6769X
CNH: #877445424
TISCO: #ATK6FF –includes rotor, condenser, feeler gage, & cam lube.
2. CAP:
ECHLIN - #FA350 or STANDARD IGNITION - #FD-126
3. CONDENSER:
ECHLIN - #FA-200 or STANDARD IGNITION - #FD-71
4. ROTOR:
ECHLIN - #FA-300 or STANDARD INGNITION - #FD-104, TISCO KIT Includes rotor.
5. GASKET KIT:
SPAREX #S.60308
6. 6V COIL:
IC670
7. BALLAST RESISTOR:
# ICR40
8. SPARK PLUG WIRES –COPPER CORE #
9. SPARK PLUGS:
AUTO-LITE 437 (216) or CHAMPION H12 (512)
10. CAM LUBE:
STANDARD IGNITION - #SL-2
ECHLIN: ML-1
FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
Tim Daley(MI)