8N front mount distributor replacement

Over the past 2-3 years, I have had discussions here about points failing and it is now where the tractor only has to run for a short period of time before the distributor (points fail again). So I have followed the advice I have received here checking different components and have decided that there is something in the distributor itself causing this failure, either with points just cleaned and reset, or with new point/condenser. (And yes, I know just enough to be dangerous when it comes to electrical systems) I have checked the current situation and have no spark (inline spark lite) from distributor to plug. Have traced ohms and power all the way through system and through coil itself. Everything seem to read within specs. The only significant play in the distributor I can find is about 1/8" movement in and out on the main shaft when pushing or pulling on the rotor cap.(No the rotor cap itself is not moving on and off the shaft). So I am going to replace the distributor and want some advice. Has anyone had any feedback on the distributors sold by Yesterdays Tractors? I ask that because so many of the after market parts, (if not all), are Chinese produced and many are failures before they are even installed or last 91 days if the guarantee is 90 days. I have never had problems before with anything from Yesterdays Tractors, but just need some feedback if anyone could provide that. Your assistance is appreciated!!!!
 
" So I am going to replace the distributor "

You're going to replace the entire distributor because the points are failing?

Where are you getting the points? As JMOR asked, what do they look like when they fail?

Are you setting the gap at .015 on the high side of the cam?


No spark has lots of causes. Seems like it would be a wise move to actually find the problem before you start replacing parts.

If you want to rule out the distributor itself as being defective, measure the component parts.

Here are the factory specs for a FM distributor:

Front Bushing ID .437

Rear Bushing ID .863

Front Shaft .436

Rear Shaft .863

Cam Flats .790

Cam Lobes .870
75 Tips
 
It will run after removing distributor and resetting points and then when it is turned off, it will not restart, either hot, cold, hours or days later. The last time I
was returning it to the shed and backing it in, the tractor was moving over a small stump in the ground, bogged down because I was almost at an idle and shut off. Tied
restarting, no go, and that was just after running for an hour or so. I have checked the resistor, the coil etc and if I remember correctly I was getting 6.25 volts
anywhere i checked and 1.0 to 1.5 reading on the ohm meter with the settings at the smallest setting 200ohms, (my meter has multiple settings from 2M down through
multiple K's to 200). And that went through the coil to the connection that comes in contact with the distributor. So is there something else I should be checking. Right
now its cheaper to replace parts than to have someone come out and work on it for me. (That knows what they are doing!)
 
OK you are addressing someone that has no idea what you are suggesting. I have been here asking questions previously and have been directed to check the system which I did the best I could. Most of the time when I check the points, they are burned with a raised buildup on one side and the burned indentation on the other. I have used NAPA, New Holland tractor dealer brand and a brand that someone here suggested, about $18.00-$23.00. can't remeber the name but was told they were the best. Other times there does not appear to be any residue on the points, but if I barely move a piece of fine emory cloth over them, reset at 15/1000ths, it fires up. So do I need to take the distributor apart that to measure the reading you gave me? I am about ready to sell the dang tractor because something with a system as simple as that 8N should not be that difficult to trace why it will not run and restart. Many have said in earlier discussions the front mount distributors were noted for wearing out, so that is why I said I was going to replace it
 
Ron, you say it's cheaper to replace parts than to have someone that knows what they are doing to work on it. Okay, replace the coil and see what happens.
 
Rock auto has Standard brand points,condenser,rotor and cap. I don't know about now,but I have a set in mine that's been in and working fine for about 6-7 years. The points now days are not what they used to be and need to aligned and squared up before set. Some brands are good,but I've seen some expensive ones that weren't aligned when installed. If the bushings are sloppy[loose],the gap will vary when run. I bought some bushings from YT and they've been good for 10-12 years now. It takes time and patience to work with the low quality stuff that's sold these days. Good luck!
 
" Most of the time when I check the points, they are burned with a raised buildup on one side and the burned indentation on the other. "

That is a text-book example of a failed condenser.

And a new distributor will not fix that.

Are you replacing condensers every time you replace the points? Do you know how to check a condenser?
75 Tips
 
Thanks, will try that again. And I guess I could try working on the distributor and see if I can do something with it before buying another. I don't even know it the one on there is the original or has been replaced in the 75+ years various people have owned this tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:14 07/24/20) OK you are addressing someone that has no idea what you are suggesting. I have been here asking questions previously and have been directed to check the system which I did the best I could. Most of the time when I check the points, they are burned with a raised buildup on one side and the burned indentation on the other. I have used NAPA, New Holland tractor dealer brand and a brand that someone here suggested, about $18.00-$23.00. can't remeber the name but was told they were the best. Other times there does not appear to be any residue on the points, but if I barely move a piece of fine emory cloth over them, reset at 15/1000ths, it fires up. So do I need to take the distributor apart that to measure the reading you gave me? I am about ready to sell the dang tractor because something with a system as simple as that 8N should not be that difficult to trace why it will not run and restart. Many have said in earlier discussions the front mount distributors were noted for wearing out, so that is why I said I was going to replace it
urned, pitted points are not likely the result of the virtually 100% mechanical distributor. Gap not set & secured properly, key left on with engine stalled, wired incorrectly, wrong value resistor, too high coil current, etc. are much more likely causes. Don't waste you $ on a new distributor.
 
Those tests tell you the coil is not bad.

The results do not mean that the coil is good.

There are a few ways to see if a coil is bad, but it’s not possible to determine if a coil is good w/o some expensive ( or old) testing equipment. If you detect a dead short or high resistance in the coil w/ an ohm meter, it’s bad. If it’s cracked, it’s bad. If a sidemount coil w/ battery voltage to the primary will not jump a ¼” gap from the secondary wire to the block, it’s bad. But, here is the hard part: even if you do not detect a short, even if it will produce a spark, even if it’s not cracked, that doesn’t mean the coil will work when it’s hot & under a load. So, it’s a process of elimination. If the tractor starts & runs fine for 30 minutes or an hour then cuts off & refuses to re-start, and you checked for spark at the plugs & it had no spark at all, AND you have the correct voltage at the coil that’s a good sign that you have a bad coil. Let it cool off, restart it & if you have a good spark, odds are it’s a bad coil. But, even then, you might end up w/ a spare coil on the shelf!

Bottom line.......coils do go bad, but I'll venture a guess that 75% of new N coils sold today are sold to folks who do not understand how to diagnose a poor spark problem or how a coil works. So, for those who don’t know any better, in a no spark situation the first suspect is usually the coil……and, more often than not, it isn’t the problem.
75 Tips
 
Bruce, thanks. Much more complicated for a non mechanic than I would have thought, given this was 1940 technology. But I was aware of coils failing when hot given cars that had that problem. But once it stops running, it wont restart at all. Its been 6 weeks since it stopped and no spark. So thats why I thought it in distributor. So based on previous comment here, I will check condenser. Now, if you would comment, should there be any vertical movement in the shaft? I open points and wiggle shaft and the points dont move, so that indicated to me the bushings are ok, but I dont understand the horizontal movement.
 
FYI, I heeded Bruce's advise when going through my front-mount distributor. I figured after 70 years there would be some perceptible wear and was correct. I replaced the bushings with new ones from our host. The play is gone.

My $.02: If you're going to pull it take care of all of it. Once & done. :)
 
Think of how the distributor mounts on the tractor.

The shaft will have some front to back movement off the tractor, but when you bolt it down, that stops.

It's the sideways movement of the shaft that causes problems. Because it effects the point gap. Replacing the bushings will fix that.
75 Tips
 
I forgot to mention that on Rockauto,you'd have to order parts from a 1942 Ford 1/2 ton truck with 120 ci motor.
 
Are you set up with the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or have you or someone else done a 12V switch over job? Don’t buy any new parts just yet –you need to determine if the old can be rebuilt or fixed. I would say with 95% certainty that it is NOT your coil or condenser. Did you or the previous owner mount the front distributor wrong? If it is 180° off, the offset male tang on the front mount distributor isn't set correctly to the engine female cam it will not bolt down flush and you will crack the distributor base the first time you try and fire it up, SEE PICTURE. When that happens the base is junk as it can’t be used or fixed. Get the essential manuals and read, read, read. Know how to set the timing correctly. Gap is .015” +/- .001” and buy quality parts –SEE LIST BELOW. I will rebuild, test, and guarantee your front mount distributor if you want –email is open. I am not an advocate of buying new aftermarket parts. FORD designed all major components to be rebuilt over and over and should be your first choice when doing any work. No need to buy newer Cheena made POS junkers.
You can static test a front mount square can coil easily. Take your 6V coil off and set your VOM to OHMS. Place one probe on the pigtail wire and the other probe (polarity unimportant) on the top terminal post. Your 6V coil should read about 1.5 OHMS +/-. A 12V coil will be more, about double. However, it does not guarantee that the coil is good –will need to determine that when it gets heated up. You (or I) don’t have the proper and very expensive test equipment to troubleshoot a coil.
Incorrect wiring is 99% of most non-starting issues whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. Just because you have a 12V battery does not ensure you have it wired correctly. The same is true with a 6V battery. Don’t assume – verify with confirmed actual data. Get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and JMOR’s WIRING PICTOGRAMS to map the electrical system. If you have a 12V system, are the generator and voltage regulator removed and an alternator installed? Do you have the OEM Ballast Resistor in place and wired correctly? You need it on both the 6V and the 12V setups. If using a 6V coil, you will need an external ceramic 1-OHM resistor in-line. There are only 3 brands (that I’ve found) of points that are good. Standard Ignition/Blue Streak/CNH/TISCO as the others I tested are all junk and can’t be timed. Set Breaker Points and set the timing per manuals. Once tested and assembled, install plug wires –firing order is: 1,2,4,3.
Disconnect battery and lights. Have battery tested not just charged. Lights can be reconnected after you get system running properly. Battery cables for a 6V need to be HD, thick. 12V cables are smaller diameter, like your car or truck. Generator (or alternator) must have a belt tension device attached. Lack of belt tension will result in a no-charging scenario.
Get the manuals -(MPC, I&T FO-4, & 8N Owner’s Manual area must). Get the wiring Pictograms by JMOR. Get “75 Tips For N-Owners” by Bruce(VA). Test coil. Verify wiring is correct. Verify distributor isn’t cracked as shown at tangs. Verify distributor timing is set correctly. Test unit before mounting via Bruce(VA). Mount distributor correctly. Test unit before firing up tractor. Use your VOM set to CONTINUITY and NOT a test light. Follow these measures and I promise you will have a good running tractor. Get the electrical right first, then you can work on the fuel test.

FORD 8N TRACTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS:
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CfuUUP3h.jpg
rxNF128h.jpg
lz8RwfQh.jpg

TBC19a5h.jpg
*PICTOGRAM courtesy of JMOR

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR – WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180° OFF:
eQMN65Fh.jpg

fqKAmFuh.jpg

FORD N-TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
2P5ECL5h.jpg
OcIturkh.jpg

HOW TO SET TIMING:
nM5tfJNh.jpg

FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:
Tbt5WvEh.jpg


PARTS:
FYI: *ECHLIN/NAPA POINTS #CS-35 are no longer any good quality-wise.

1. BREAKER POINTS:
*ECHLIN - #CS35 (NO LONGER A QUALITY PART –DON’T USE)
STANDARD IGNITION/BLUE STREAK - #FD-6769X
CNH: #877445424
TISCO: #ATK6FF –includes rotor, condenser, feeler gage, & cam lube.

2. CAP:
ECHLIN - #FA350 or STANDARD IGNITION - #FD-126

3. CONDENSER:
ECHLIN - #FA-200 or STANDARD IGNITION - #FD-71

4. ROTOR:
ECHLIN - #FA-300 or STANDARD INGNITION - #FD-104, TISCO KIT Includes rotor.

5. GASKET KIT:
SPAREX #S.60308

6. 6V COIL:
IC670
7. BALLAST RESISTOR:
# ICR40

8. SPARK PLUG WIRES –COPPER CORE #

9. SPARK PLUGS:
AUTO-LITE 437 (216) or CHAMPION H12 (512)

10. CAM LUBE:
STANDARD IGNITION - #SL-2
ECHLIN: ML-1


FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
qI9P22kh.jpg


Tim Daley(MI)
 
Tim, thank for this excellent information. So one additional question if you would be kind enough to answer if you have time.

This seems to address issues where the tractor is not and has not been running. My issue is it runs for short periods of time and then after a period of running, it wont start. Sometimes trying to restart right after shutdown, sometimes days/weeks after. Then I remove distributor, run some extra fine emory cloth through points, reset, tighten points back tight, reinstall distributor, tractor starts. The issue has been going on for years. Shortly after buying in the early 90's, it could go 6 months before problem reappeared. Then it got to where it would appear after running 10-15 times and then it after 2-3 times and now almost everytime the tractor has been used.

That is why I have discounted incorrect wiring, incorrect install of distributor since it has been on and off so many times with no damage showing anywhere, etc. I suspect I could go back on the forum site and find numerious questions I have posted and have followed instructions to determine problems. No luck.I will check the timing when I remove it to check condenser and will recheck coil ohms.

This problem is like looking for one flee on a Saint Bernard!
 
It is really easy to replace the bushings and this site has them. I bought a small tube of Mallory point grease about 15 years ago,it still has 3/4 of it's full amount,as it takes only a small amount.
 
(quoted from post at 14:19:05 07/25/20) It is really easy to replace the bushings and this site has them. I bought a small tube of Mallory point grease about 15 years ago,it still has 3/4 of it's full amount,as it takes only a small amount.
see nothing to indicate bushings are his problem.
 
(quoted from post at 14:37:01 07/25/20)
(quoted from post at 14:19:05 07/25/20) It is really easy to replace the bushings and this site has them. I bought a small tube of Mallory point grease about 15 years ago,it still has 3/4 of it's full amount,as it takes only a small amount.
see nothing to indicate bushings are his problem.
Some things to ponder when hot engine hard start or no start. As engine runs, engine and all things attached heat up, especially those parts that generate heat on their own, such as the coil. Consider that the copper wire in the coil windings has a resistance increase as it heats & it isn't inconsequential! In fact it reduces coil current by ~ 25% compared to room temperature current & since spark energy is proportional to the square of the current, spark energy is reduced by ~44% TO ABOUT 56% OF ITS ROOM temperature value.
Now, as a "for instance", let us say that various things are marginal in the engine, maybe mixture, compression, points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, state of battery charge, on & on, but spark is just good enough to make it run even with its problems, but as temperature increases, the spark drops from 100% (cold), to 90%, then 75% and finally drops below what it needs to be to keep the engine running fine. Whereas if all engine systems were perfect, it might "run fine" with a spark of 60%. ....and it could be a perfectly normal coil, but other weaknesses result in no run condition at higher temperatures. Bad plugs, wires, etc. that cause the engine to need a higher energy spark than when all systems are well. Then there is no start when hot. It was running until stalled or turned off, but
won't restart. When hot, battery output is reduced, coil spark energy down,! and additional factors may result in
need better spark to start than to run.
Maybe time for compression check, or insert ammeter in resistor to coil terminal wire & measure current with key on
& points closed. Don't tell those trying to help, "everything looks in spec", give us measured numbers!
 
Tim, Thanks for all this information. Someone yesterday asked for "actual" readings on the coil and not "it appears right", so I went back today and rechecked my numbers. The coil reading at 200 ohm setting (lowest on my ohm meter) from the resistor to the coil connector read 1.0 to 1.1 fluctuating. Then I connected to the pig tail inside the coil that connects to the top screw in the distributor. From the resistor to the pig tail 2.0 dropped to 1.1.

After that I decided to check the condenser since that was suggested. The You Tube sites suggested using the 20M ohms setting. Mine does not have that even though it has about 6 settings, so I used the 2M ohms setting. The condenser read 2.0 and stayed there, did not increase as the You Tube sight said it should increase. So that indicates to me that it could be bad.

However, I did notice this time taking the distributor cap off that the inside of the cap was filed down in the inside of the terminals around were the plug wires connect and also noticed the rotor itself seemed to come on and off much easier than before. It seemed much looser than previous.

So with all of this I am going to purchase the bushings and anything else that looks worn, replace those since I have the distributor off and replace all the electrical in the distributor and then see if that solves the problem.

And if you know or anyone that might reads this knows, how can you determine if a distributor is the original or a replacement? Did the original have any distinguishing markings to indicate original. Just wondering if this is an ofter market product itself.

Thanks all.
 
(quoted from post at 14:52:56 07/26/20) Tim, Thanks for all this information. Someone yesterday asked for "actual" readings on the coil and not "it appears right", so I went back today and rechecked my numbers. The coil reading at 200 ohm setting (lowest on my ohm meter) from the resistor to the coil connector read 1.0 to 1.1 fluctuating. Then I connected to the pig tail inside the coil that connects to the top screw in the distributor. From the resistor to the pig tail 2.0 dropped to 1.1.

After that I decided to check the condenser since that was suggested. The You Tube sites suggested using the 20M ohms setting. Mine does not have that even though it has about 6 settings, so I used the 2M ohms setting. The condenser read 2.0 and stayed there, did not increase as the You Tube sight said it should increase. So that indicates to me that it could be bad.

However, I did notice this time taking the distributor cap off that the inside of the cap was filed down in the inside of the terminals around were the plug wires connect and also noticed the rotor itself seemed to come on and off much easier than before. It seemed much looser than previous.

So with all of this I am going to purchase the bushings and anything else that looks worn, replace those since I have the distributor off and replace all the electrical in the distributor and then see if that solves the problem.

And if you know or anyone that might reads this knows, how can you determine if a distributor is the original or a replacement? Did the original have any distinguishing markings to indicate original. Just wondering if this is an ofter market product itself.

Thanks all.
have more or less reached the conclusion that you are not 'helpable'. Reminds me of an old song about "looking in all the wrong places". Bet you don't have a clue as to removing & installing those bushings either.
 
You have repeatedly said, "the only way you can return spark to the system is to file or change points".
If that is true, I would be looking for a reason your points are burning up so fast.
Or I would be looking at what I could possible be fixing in the process of removing and or replacing the distributor, like moving a grounded out wire or open connection.
If your bushings are worn enough to change the gap to where the points will burn, that should be evident when bench setting the points.
One last thing you did not state clearly whether, or not, you are changing out the condenser each time,or how long that condenser has been in place. Also you didn't say how well the engine runs once started,
 
32..I have replaced condenser, but not each time.

Once running, the tractor runs smooth, idles way down to a very slow idle well and not "missing" at high
speed. Does not "bog" down while using bushhog or plow.

The issue since the 90's is a starting issue after use, which I said started out as an every 6 mth issue
or 50-75 hours of run time. Cold or hot, no difference. As the years went by, the time between "no
starts" got shorter. so I posted question in the mid 2000's asking about electronic ignition. Was told by
many they are not good alternative for 6V system.So did not convert.

So now it is happening regularily and I asked about replacing distributor and received much info, which I
responded to, including voltage and amp readings and checking other stuff. Replacing distributor was not
recommended. So after receiving the various info, I pulled the distributor and checked the condenser. It
read 2.0 constant on my ohm meter, did not increase as it seems it should.

So with all the info I have received and after looking at distributor closely, I am going to replace
breaker plate as it is scored and chipped ( like filed small "v's" around the top edge) at the area where
the rotor attaches to the cam, and installing all Blue Streak components as recommened. Points,
condenser, distributor cap. And I ordered a front bushing in case the breaker plate does not have one,
which it should. When setting pounts or inspecting cam, there is no visable horizontal movement within
the bushings.

JMOR gave me the best advice. Your stupid, forget it!

But stupid is trying to fix something that is not readily apparent as to the cause. So that is me. Would
be much easier if some ohm reading was way off.

Thanks for your assistance!
 
It sounds like you have a plan in place, it will be interesting to see the outcome. Please make sure to get back to us.

One thing I would do if you experience a no spark problem again is to run a temporary jumper wire from your battery to the coil and measure the voltage at the coil terminal. . Just to make sure the problem is not the wire, resister or ignition switch causing the problem. Also, wondering to about the resister allowing too much voltage to the system burning the points, but not too likely.

I think if you still have ignition problems after all this I would be looking at the coil as suspect. I like others don't like throwing parts at problems but sometimes I am weak.

Also in the back of my mind, I hope you have diagnosed this correctly as a no spark problem and not something else.
Good luck!
 
(quoted from post at 14:26:31 07/27/20) I am going to replace breaker plate as it is scored and chipped ( like filed small "v's" around the top edge) at the area where the rotor attaches to the cam
This is interesting. Would you happen to have a picture of the scoring? This could be a clue to what is going on.
 
(quoted from post at 17:26:31 07/27/20) 32..I have replaced condenser, but not each time.

Once running, the tractor runs smooth, idles way down to a very slow idle well and not "missing" at high
speed. Does not "bog" down while using bushhog or plow.

The issue since the 90's is a starting issue after use, which I said started out as an every 6 mth issue
or 50-75 hours of run time. Cold or hot, no difference. As the years went by, the time between "no
starts" got shorter. so I posted question in the mid 2000's asking about electronic ignition. Was told by
many they are not good alternative for 6V system.So did not convert.

So now it is happening regularily and I asked about replacing distributor and received much info, which I
responded to, including voltage and amp readings and checking other stuff. Replacing distributor was not
recommended. So after receiving the various info, I pulled the distributor and checked the condenser. It
read 2.0 constant on my ohm meter, did not increase as it seems it should.

So with all the info I have received and after looking at distributor closely, I am going to replace
breaker plate as it is scored and chipped ( like filed small "v's" around the top edge) at the area where
the rotor attaches to the cam, and installing all Blue Streak components as recommened. Points,
condenser, distributor cap. And I ordered a front bushing in case the breaker plate does not have one,
which it should. When setting pounts or inspecting cam, there is no visable horizontal movement within
the bushings.

JMOR gave me the best advice. Your stupid, forget it!

But stupid is trying to fix something that is not readily apparent as to the cause. So that is me. Would
be much easier if some ohm reading was way off.

Thanks for your assistance!
hose are your words, not mine! You make helping difficult by not answering questions directly. I ask for measurements including under what conditions, where, etc. and get, " I have checked the resistor, the coil etc and if I remember correctly I was getting 6.25 volts
anywhere i checked and 1.0 to 1.5 reading on the ohm meter with the settings at the smallest setting 200ohms, (my meter has multiple settings from 2M down through
multiple K's to 200)." Well, "6.25v anywhere I checked...". Really??, points open, closed, key on/off, where are the two meter probes attached?, one stuck in the earth & other up dog's butt? I do not have a crystal ball. also, I asked for ammeter measurement with meter inserted between coil & resistor output, key on, points closed.....it never materialized. I, too , get frustrated, Sir.
 
Points closed
Switch on
6.25 volts on any circuit from switch to coil that carries voltage. Measured from various starting and ending points, not just point A to the coil. Rechecked everything after getting
the diagrams from others in discussion.
ohm meter is a Southwire 10031S multimeter, ohm settings 2M ohms, 200k ohms, 20k ohms,2k ohms and 200
ohms.
Meter probes, one attached at point A, beginning point of curcuit check and the second at point B, end of
circuit check.
I did respond concerning the resistor to coil ohms. Key on, points closed, from the exit terminal of the
resistor, where the wire to the coil attaches to the coil terminal and then to the pig tail output of the coil, the ohm reading fluctuated between 1.0 to 1.5 at the 200
ohm setting.
Sorry if I did not answer your questions direct. I answered many, some the same as yours and guess I
missed responding.
So given this info,did I answer everything?
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 20:43:49 07/27/20) Points closed
Switch on
6.25 volts on any circuit from switch to coil that carries voltage. Measured from various starting and ending points, not just point A to the coil. Rechecked everything after getting
the diagrams from others in discussion.
ohm meter is a Southwire 10031S multimeter, ohm settings 2M ohms, 200k ohms, 20k ohms,2k ohms and 200
ohms.
Meter probes, one attached at point A, beginning point of curcuit check and the second at point B, end of
circuit check.
I did respond concerning the resistor to coil ohms. Key on, points closed, from the exit terminal of the
resistor, where the wire to the coil attaches to the coil terminal and then to the pig tail output of the coil, the ohm reading fluctuated between 1.0 to 1.5 at the 200
ohm setting.
Sorry if I did not answer your questions direct. I answered many, some the same as yours and guess I
missed responding.
So given this info,did I answer everything?
Thanks
Meter probes, one attached at point A, beginning point of curcuit check and the second at point B, end of
circuit check.' I guess that statement means something to you, but tells me nothing.
"I did respond concerning the resistor to coil ohms. Key on, points closed, from the exit terminal of the
resistor, where the wire to the coil attaches to the coil terminal and then to the pig tail output of the coil, the ohm reading fluctuated between 1.0 to 1.5 at the 200
ohm setting." One does not measure Ohms in a powered circuit! Meter must have good protections or it would be toast now.
 
Thiis is the picture of the distributor and why i am replacing breaker plate. And Hunkydory, this is not for you, but no one please think I am stupid enough to file
around the top of the plate next to the cam. Maybe a previous owner did it in the 45 years before I bought the tractor. This is the worst side, the other side is less
scored. I could be that it has just been wearing like this and it is the first time I have noticed.

cvphoto51689.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:45:30 07/28/20) Thiis is the picture of the distributor and why i am replacing breaker plate. And Hunkydory, this is not for you, but no one please think I am stupid enough to file
around the top of the plate next to the cam. Maybe a previous owner did it in the 45 years before I bought the tractor. This is the worst side, the other side is less
scored. I could be that it has just been wearing like this and it is the first time I have noticed.

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto51689.jpg">
see nothing wrong there. That upper bushing mount is a bent up piece of formed sheetmetal, not some precision machined part. Again picking 'all the wrong places to look' for cause of pitted points! :roll:
OWz2e95.jpg
 
32..On vacation, so repairs on hold. Parts received, new breaker plate installed in distributor. Points
installed .O15 , new top bushing much more snug than old one, new rotor does not have any "play" when
installed like old one, new cap and new gaskets, drop of cam lub, so distributor is ready to be
reinstalled once I get home. Will find out if this solves problem. If not, will move to next item until I
track it down. Will let you know, thanks for checking.
 
32..Reinstalled distributor, started right up. Now the issue will be how many times it will start until I
have to work on it again. Thats always been the issue. Maybe this will be the fix.
 
(quoted from post at 12:53:05 08/11/20) 32..Reinstalled distributor, started right up. Now the issue will be how many times it will start until I
have to work on it again. Thats always been the issue. Maybe this will be the fix.

Good news! I know some here have good luck with having points last for years, however I remember the days when you changed ignition parts twice a year. We tuned up our vehicles before winter and once again in the spring before the summer vacation trip.

Granted there's a lot of difference between cars and tractors but the fact is the ignitions system used to be a regular maintenance activity, and changing out the points and condenser was a big part of it.

Maybe over kill, but no one wanted a car that didn't start in the winter or fail them on vacation.
 

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