Now I''ve got you, you son-of-a-gun!

Good evening! This evening I believe I discovered what has been wrong with my 9N for months! (Similar topic to another recent post today!!).
I have been experiencing hard-to-start problems; Tried starting fluid, jumper box, replaced spark plugs. Still hard to start even in this warm weather. Well, today after an hour of steady grass-cutting, I went to turn the key off, and found there is an INTERMITTENT problem when key is wiggled. WELL,THERE IT IS, I thought to my self. So over the last months, while troubleshooting the seemingly hard-starting problem, the key switch was working sometimes, not working other times. I don't know why I never suspected it!! It is a cheap replacement 9N/2N type switch, over 25 years old. BTW, when I replace the switch, I should also install a pilot light that will verify power whenever the switch is turned on. Sorry, this is almost a rant.........

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 

BTDT got the t-shirt... That's why I will not use a standard N switch and like a voltmeter as an indicator the system is LIVE : )

It not as obvious as one would think is it... I spec a failing coil is about as bad as a failing ignition switch to catch...
 
Yes. This is a common problem.
I'm on my 3rd switch in 34 years on my 2N.
When I bought my new one I also bought a spare.
Our 8N also has a new one.
Very, very easy to test.
Just disconnect one lead from the switch and do a continuity test across the leads while lightly wiggling the switch.
The switch should provide a SOLID on or off and no in between.
 
Dad's Jubilee had that issue a while ago. Took a while to figure out. Since then, I installed a small clearance light on the
switched power from that switch (same screw that feeds power to the coil). Allows me to know then the key is REALLY on or
off. Also keeps ya from walking away from a non-running tractor and messing up the points.
 
Good evening, Pete and others, thanks for sympathy and some good suggestions. I should have things back to normal in a few days.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
I have been working on one that sat awhile. I checked power at the coil first thing and realized the switch doesn't work when turned all the way. I'm thinking of putting a light on it too. I can kinda tell by the amp meter jumping.
 

A voltmeter is powered up by the ignition switch a simple solution and you have hard data that's right damm hard to beat bar NONE...

If it indicates NO POWER no guess needed simple eh!

If we are gonna light it up light it up light up all the indicators : )

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.c...arameter=hobo,nc&w=pieces&cc=1&s=

I do like lights why cuzz I can I even have a big'N on my ford diesel truck to indicate the glow plugs are powered on : )...
 
I bought one for my 8N that lasted a very short time. Last one of those I'll buy. I bought an automotive type ignition switch from an auto parts store. No problems since.
 
I bought an 8N once from a mechanic who had given up on it starting. He had discovered the bad switch & had replaced it w/a toggle switch ------ that was also bad!
 
(quoted from post at 20:49:20 07/09/20)...It is a cheap replacement 9N/2N type switch

Unfortunately all aftermarket N tractor switches are junk. Stick with quality name brands for switches.

I use a [u:393b7bedef]Standard Ignition part# US-11[/u:393b7bedef] switch. This is a good quality switch, has 3 positions - Acc - Off - On. Have to file a flat spot on the threads to match/lock into a 9N instrument panel. May be others that are direct fit.
 
go to Caterpillar dealer, buy switch part # 9G-7641 problems solved. it will
outlast all of us. about $35 but worth every penny.
 
I use a [u:67bced6d16]Standard Ignition part# US-11[/u:67bced6d16] switch. This is a good quality switch, has 3 positions - Acc - Off - On.

This is what's on my 8N. I fits and works fine.
 
I have to laugh. In my 60 years of backyard fixes with my dad The switches and relays were the 1st thing we
tested.
I learned like you the easiest thing is the 1st to diagnose. lol
Me it was the wiper motor relay. spent hours pulling motor and found the relay was shorting. $7.95 and 2
minutes time, hours later...
 

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