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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Ford Project

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TractorTucker

07-06-2020 19:54:38




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I just got this Ford home. It is missing all of the sheet metal except one side panel. What is the correct style of grill and should the correct sheet metal have the Ford script on it? The serial number appears to be 9N239159 I believe that this serial number would make it a 1946 2N.
Below are some pictures of parts I have already obtained for it or that came with it. I believe that all of them will work on the tractor except the hydraulic pump which I believe is for a Jubilee.
I would like to sell the pump to pay for some parts for this tractor. Any idea of a fair value for it? It is not seized.

What am I missing for this tractor other than the generator, hood, grill, fenders, and right side panel? What is not original on this tractor?

What color should it be. I have heard that it should be all grey. Under the blue paint there is red paint. The only place that I have found gray paint is on the dash.





















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TractorTucker

07-13-2020 19:27:34




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
Today I drove the tractor around a little bit. I didn't have the correct fittings to make my temporary fuel tank set up work so I was just driving around off of what gas was in the carb. The tractor runs great and drives very nicely.
I also visited the tractor salvage yard to buy a distributor and part of the air cleaner for my Farmall, while I was there I asked about how much sheet metal for my Ford would cost me. I was told a distributor without a coil would cost me $110, a pair of fenders $100, and the hood assembly was $75. I only bought the hood. I will probably go back for fenders some other time after I get a bit more money. I got the hood, grill, both side panels, and the battery door. The person running the register also let me take both headlights off of another hood at no additional charge. The hood needs a little bit of work but after pricing out new sheet metal I was very happy with what I got for the price. I made sure to get a hood without the ford script on the sides, I also got a grill with the Ferguson System emblem on it.

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TractorTucker

07-10-2020 19:59:41




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
I cleaned the points and sprayed some carb cleaner in the carb and the tractor runs! Next I have to clean out the carb, rig up a temporary fuel tank, and put the radiator back on and (hopefully) go for a drive.



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HarryVanderpool

07-09-2020 20:39:35




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
I would strongly suggest a systematic approach.

Don't get bogged down by looking at the entire project at the same time.

Start out first with a compression check.

Pull the plugs, open the throttle plate fully and conduct a compression check.

You very likely may have a sticky valve that will give a crazy reading on a cylinder or two.

No problem. If you receive a crazy low reading, pull the valve covers and look to see if the valves operate. You can free them up if they don't.

Then adjust the valves.

Next, pull off the distributor and do a COMPLETE tune up.

Rebuild the carburetor.
THIS IS NOT throwing parts at your tractor.

This is a systematic approach to static set-up for your soon to be a fine running machine.

You don't know and shouldn't care about the past.

Your focus is to systematically work through each mechanism, circuits, etc and know for certain that the work behind you is completed.

Your tractor was designed and engineered to run and work.

After you have carefully worked through each "system" on your tractor there can be only one outcome:

It will run as it was designed to run.

Don't get in a hurry!

Have fun!

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TractorTucker

07-09-2020 19:56:27




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
I finally got some time to work on it today! I decided to get it running before making a decision on paint. I stripped all of the old wiring off of it except for the wiring for the starter and the starter works nice. I ran one wire to a ballast resistor and then to the coil to test for spark. I do not have any spark but the contacts in the distributor are a mess. I need to clean and gap the points and otherwise clean everything. After I do that I need to clean the carb and rig up a little gas can to test the engine. I pulled the fan off to give myself more room to work, I can see why the side mounted distributors are nicer.
Anyone think it would be a bad idea to start the engine and let it run for a short period of time without a radiator and a questionable amount of coolant in the block? I would rather not reassemble the radiator and fan only to decide to strip the thing back down to paint it.

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Lynn Patrick

07-08-2020 05:47:38




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
[quote= I do not have a v-bar for the tractor. What would be a fair price to pay for one? I saw one on Craigslist for $30 a while back.[/quote]

In my area you would never buy a v-bar for $30 - I would have beat you to it!



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Rustic1s

07-08-2020 05:42:19




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
You have the 2 most important items.

The desire.

The tractor.

You found the right place/forum.

Hold up on the sandblasting for now.

Why not STOP,STUDY,LEARN and plan..

To me step 1 is, IS IT STUCK. pull plugs,spray with blaster "Wd40" and slowly crank by hand to soften,shave the surface rust from the cylinder walls. NEVER TO LATE.

Then I run a compression test.
Test fire to see how it runs.
Determine what I have and how far I want to go.

Tell us about yourself,how you aquired them and your ultimate plan. Personally, I'm inspired by a young man that wants to help preserve a long forgotten part of farming history. That's just me,that's what I do.

So, tell us about you.

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Royse

07-07-2020 19:14:41




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
Painting it before you know it runs makes no sense to me.

Why spend the money on a non-running tractor?

I sandblast parts of my tractors, but not while assembled.

I don't want sand getting into the oil, transmission, rear end, etc.

I have quite a few of the parts you need, in Michigan.

I'd be willing to work with you on price. Shipping may be an issue.

If you send me a closer picture of that pump, maybe we could even

trade some parts. My email is open on modern view.

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TractorTucker

07-07-2020 18:37:45




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
My biggest problem is that I am 16 and do not have a full time job. I can find parts pretty readily, I just have problems finding parts that I can afford. I also have four other tractors, that I have gotten for free; a Case DC, a Farmall M, a Co-op e3, and a Sears Suburban 725. I will probably sell the Farmall though to pay for something else. The Farmall, Case, and Sears all run, the Co-op is seized with 4 bad tires and a shot manifold, and my Ford is missing a bunch of parts although the engine is free.

I am unsure if I should strip the tractor down and paint it before getting it running or if I should get it going then strip and paint it. The tractor has been sitting inside for a decade since the sheet metal was stolen. I am told that before it was stolen it got used all the time and that it runs great. I am also told that before it was parked the transmission was gone through and had a hi-low added.

What would be the best way to strip the old paint and rust off? I have an uncle with a sandblaster I could borrow, but I am wondering if I should just use a wire wheel on a grinder since the tractor is so small.

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TractorTucker

07-07-2020 17:16:00




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
I am located fairly close to Omaha, Nebraska.

After looking at it some more it appears that it was painted red without taking the metal off of it. There is blue paint and gray paint on the back side of the dash but there is no red paint. I found some red paint and chipped it off to reveal that it was definitely gray before it was red or blue. After talking to the person I got it from I found out that it was blue when he got the tractor over 40 years ago.

I do have a drawbar for it. I think mine is only an 11 hole drawbar though. I do not have a v-bar for the tractor. What would be a fair price to pay for one? I saw one on Craigslist for $30 a while back.

The tractor came with an over running clutch. I have no intentions of using the tractor with a bush hog so I am considering removing the ORC in favor of the pto extenders I have.

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Rustic1s

07-07-2020 17:11:46




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
Wow. Bought a 43 2N last night. Same "wrong color ford blue".
Tell us where you are located, used parts are plentiful. I own basket case #1 a 1946 Plain Jane. Yours has the thru hood air cleaner option, which is cool. Keep us posted, tractor fever at your service..









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Shaun Wallace

07-07-2020 08:36:58




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
Not much demand for vane hyd pump and manifold off 6/800. Have plenty stay bars for 13 hole drawbar,no 13 hole drawbar. Pto extensions mite be worth something.



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HCooke

07-07-2020 05:46:45




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
Where are you located? I have some old fenders in good condition.



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warbaby

07-07-2020 04:43:28




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 Re: Ford Project in reply to TractorTucker, 07-06-2020 19:54:38  
No script on 9N-2N hoods, that came out on the 8N. It should be all Ford dark grey, but several owners before you had other ideas!



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