Ford 8n ignition issues

Hello fellow tractor mechanics. I have had a 52 Ford 8n for a couple
of years now and I am running into issues getting it to start this year.
Ran great last year and after sitting through the winter it won’t start.
Battery is only a year old so I charged it up and still can’t get it to
start. Found I was getting weak to no spark so I replaced the points,
condenser, rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, plug wires, and the coil.
After doing all of this I got it to start and run for about 5-10 seconds
then nothing. Took the gas line off the carb and got solid gas flow.
Pulled the carb off and everything in it seems to be fine and allowing
gas to be sent into the intake manifold. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated.

These tractors are pretty simple machines; it’s usually pretty easy to get them running with some basic troubleshooting steps. You can:

1. Replace every part you can until it starts or you run out of money.

2. List every possible cause of the problem and then randomly pick your favorite to check. It could be your coil. Or your ignition switch. Or about 10 other things.


3. Like diagnosing any other equipment failure, take a step-by-step approach, working from the most likely to the least likely, one system at a time.



I’ve tried all three approaches. The third one always worked for me.



I might not be able to tell you why your tractor isn’t running, but I can tell you how to figure it out for yourself.


You could have a spark issue.


You could have a fuel issue.


Don’t guess. Troubleshoot. See tip # 13 at the link below.


You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:


With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?


Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.


And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?

Once you narrow the problem to spark or fuel, post back and tell us what you found (and how you found it) and you will get plenty of help to get your tractor running. And tell us if your tractor is 6v or 12v and has a front or side distributor.



* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It’s not the color of the spark that counts; it’s the distance it jumps.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000043798748&gclid=Cj0KCQiAovfvBRCRARIsADEmbRKBdAvAmtFfOvYiYXR7T6NYiW57uyv5-dEKjVT_h2KogQNUUMsRixYaAlU3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
75 Tips

I don’t have a plug gap checker so I pulled all the plug lines going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs and let them jump to a ground over a 1/4 inch away (The engine block). All were able to make the jump with a nice spark. When the I removed the bolt from the carb the gas flows out at a pretty steady pace. I would say it would qualify as the minimum flow you described (pint jar in under 2 minutes). I also went ahead and check the points to insure they are getting power and they are getting a solid reading from my meter. I also went ahead and checked the engine for compression while I had the plugs out and got a 100psi give or take a few psi out of each cylinder. It is a 6 volt system with a side mount distributor. Prior to the replacements I described I found the original rotator and distributor cap had made contact, breaking the rotor and gouging the points inside the distributor cap which spurred the replacement. Is it possibly a timing issue that was created from when the rotor was having resistance against it?

Sorry for your troubles.
Have you done a compression check?
A stuck valve or two can cause symptoms like yours.
Watch some videos on compression checks and carefully conduct one.
You'll get 'er going. Don't worry!

I got similar readings of around 100 psi out of all the cylinders. From
what I could find it should be right around the mid 90s.

" Is it possibly a timing issue that was created from when the rotor was having resistance against it? "

No.


" I found the original rotator and distributor cap had made contact"

Why?

Make sure you have the little clip under the rotor.

Make sure you have NO sideways movement in the shaft.

Double check the firing order, 1-2-4-3, CCW
75 Tips

the fuel rate out of the drain plug will look good if you only take quick look. ethe bowl has to drain before you really see what you need to see, that is why draining it into a glass jar is better. It is easy to loose the rotor clip, don't ask how I know that!

Your ignition switch has two leads.
Disconnect one lead and run a continuity test.
With the meter connected, wiggle the key while in the "on" position and see if you get a faulty connection. If so, replace.
Remember to disconnect battery before running this test.
I just recently had this problem. The switch was shot.

After doing all of this I got it to start and run for about 5-10 seconds
then nothing.

The last two ignition tune up kits I have install both ran for a short time like you describe. I re-installed the old original condensor/capacitor and my problem was solved. Two bad condensors right out of the box?! I now have 4 new condensors on the shelf hoping that when the original condensor fails I will have at least one good one!
J B

Just ran the test as you described and got solid readings on the
meter even when wiggling in the on position.