Intalling fan belt on 8-N!!

I was told that I could put belt on 8-N without removing the shroud-radiator-etc. I am about to lose my belt(fraying) but am dreading taking all this stuff off. Has anyone experienced belt replacement and could give me step by step instructions? Thanx!!
 
I've never needed to do it, but I think you can remove the bolts from the fan, slide the fan forward and down into the shroud, and then change the belt.
 
I was able to route my belt around the fan blades without removing the fan or shroud. But my shroud has been 'loved' on some too. You might have to work a little bit and you may accidentally bend a few more fins on the radiator, but not impossible to get that belt around the fan.
 
Good afternoon: I am not an expert, but about a year ago I bought a fan shroud for my 9N because tractor did not have one. I had to remove the radiator to attach the shroud to it. I left gas tank on the tractor, but nearly all the bolts had to be removed, also one dogleg. It was like some kind of Chinese puzzle, and took most of the day. The belt alone should not be too bad, but you may need wrenches you have never seen before, and small flexible hands. Others should chime in here, I am pretty sure belt change can be done ok.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
As was said, you have to work the fan belt around the blade and using a combination of spinning the fan and working through the blades, you get there. It took me ten minutes to do it last month, but an hour before to figure it out.
 
The Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor did not use a radiator/fan shroud on the early 9N-8005 non-pressurized radiator. It wasn't until the 2n-8005 4 PSI Pressurized Radiator was introduced in 1943 that they added the shroud, p/n 2N-8146. The shroud's intended usage was for the pull-type fan blade pulling warm air back to the operator in cold weather. That's it. Many run their 2N's and 8N's without one. What 'special tools' are you talking about?

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Taking "all what stuff off"? There is nothing to take off except the old belt. On the Front Mount Distributor w/ OEM 6V POS/GRN setup, loosen generator belt tensioner arm, p/n 8N-10145, then loosen the generator mounting/pivot bolt, slacken the genny so fan belt slips off pulley, then gently relax the unit down. Slip the fan belt off the crank pulley. At this point you can work the old belt around the fan blade or cut it with good tin snips -you don't need it anymore so why do you care if you cut it? Work the new fan belt around the blade; the fan blade spins easy when not under load on crank pulley. Once all blades are over belt and water pump, work belt onto crank pulley then position over generator pulley. Test to see belt is fully on the pulleys. Using a pipe, pry bar, or crowbar, apply tension on the genny body and manifold so belt tightens as op manual shows and tighten mounting/pivot bolt. Lastly, before you forget, tighten the belt tensioner arm so it stays in place. The fan belt must maintain proper tension so generator can work correctly and thus charge the battery, otherwise you are flogging a dead horse. The steps are the same if you have the angle mount distributor except tensioner is different on the RH side. If you have a 12V switch out job and alternator, be sure you have the correct fan belt -the OEM belt used on the generator is different. The alternator also needs a belt tension device as well. Belt Tensioners are often neglected on both generators and alternators. The tension arms used on either the front mount or angle mount generators will not work on an alternator. Alternator belt tension brackets are usually included in the 12V kits sold by quality parts suppliers -it matters where you buy from. I have a few OEM 8N-10145 belt tension arms used on the 6V generator if anyone needs one. You don't get one with a new aftermarket 8N generator.

FORD 8N TRACTOR -48/50 GENERATOR BELT TENSION ARM 8N-10145:
1dRAeYdh.jpg

*Used only on early 8N generator with the front mount distributor.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
x2 Ron & Tim. Working at the 6 o'clock position I was able to feed belt under one blade, rotate blades, feed under next, rotate . . . until whole belt on engine side of fan and then, well, pump, crank and genny and that's it. You might scrape a knuckle or two.
 
You might scrape a knuckle or two.
I have replaced many 2/9/8N belts & never removed anything but the old belt by doing it exactly as angusthom said. My only disagreement would be you WILL scrape a knuckle or two!
 
I have done it both ways but getting those fan bolts back in is an almost impossible job, it fits only one way and yoy think you have the bolts in correct place untill you come to last one.
 
(quoted from post at 10:13:29 06/13/20) The Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor did not use a radiator/fan shroud on the early 9N-8005 non-pressurized radiator. It wasn't until the 2n-8005 4 PSI Pressurized Radiator was introduced in 1943 that they added the shroud, p/n 2N-8146. The shroud's intended usage was for the pull-type fan blade pulling warm air back to the operator in cold weather. That's it. Many run their 2N's and 8N's without one. What 'special tools' are you talking about?

Tim Daley(MI)
ood afternoon: I have a newer radiator, with pressure cap. Tractor was running hot while cutting grass, so I bought shroud. Removing radiator required removing one dogleg, the bolts holding dogleg to hood were tricky to remove. I used 1/4 inch ratchet flex sockets, various 1/4 inch pieces. Enough said? Thanks for commenting!!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
(quoted from post at 18:24:51 06/13/20) the bolts holding dogleg to hood were tricky to remove.

i couldn't agree more. i leave them alone now and pull the hood and doglegs as a unit.
 

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