9N Wiring

LM1970 · Jun 8, 2020

I need help.
I have an IT Shop Manual,I've scoured the internet.
But, I can't seem to find , or really trust, what the real wiring for my 9N should be.
It had been altered over the years.
It's a 6 Volt.
I got it up and running about 12 years ago. Ran for 2 years.
It had sat for 16 years prior to that.
Gotta love those 9N's!!
It ran like a top in 2008 to 2010 after I replaced plus, pounts, rotor, condenser, crab cap, and coil. And rebuilt the carb. It started quicker than my car.
Then it just started giving trouble. I let it sit due to life.
Now, with new battery, new starter, points condenser, and rotor, and coil. Also a new switch. Barely turns over.
So, I've now put in a new ignition. Old one wasn't even in use.
Oh.....
12 years ago.... because of how it was wired then... no ignition, just a wire straight from the Battery Positive, to the Coil. It ran great.

Back to now....
So, I decided to wire it right. With all new wires. Amp gauge is orig. And looks like it still works. Tested Resistor, seems ok. Cleaned them. Now, here's my question.

What is the proper way to wire it?

So many diagrams are different.

Also.... I've seen in some, there is a "Cutout Relay" in the Generator wire.
Is that needed?
Some have a New Resistor " in line.
Ugh....
I don't want to fry anything nor explode the battery.

I'm attaching a diagram of the one I have decided to go by. Is it right?
There are no lights nor light switch. So I'm ignoring that part.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Bruce(VA) · Jun 8, 2020

the cutout opens when the engine is off to keep the battery from discharging.

the resistor is for your coil, not your battery. You have a 6v system with a front coil. all you need is the oem ballast resistor, per the diagram.

The diagram is fine. Use it. .
75 Tips

R Geiger · Jun 8, 2020

Go for it, that wiring diagram is what you need. no more no less.

LM1970 · Jun 8, 2020

What about the Cutout Relay it shows between the Resistor and the Generator. Mine doesn't have it. It's just a straight wire.

I also forgot about 2 wires on the solenoid. That's not on the diagram at all.
Where should those go?

Jim L WA · Jun 9, 2020

If you don't have a cutout relay and you have a solenoid, you don't have a 9N tractor, you have an early 8N tractor. That's what's causing your confusion.

R Geiger · Jun 9, 2020

post a photo of your tractor, several would help, but like jim, says it sounds like you do not have 9n at all. how many wires on generator?

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Here are the pictures. I have some of the original wiring. But, well, I'll post those later if I need to.
It looks like the placard says 9N. There's a pic of that too.

R Geiger · Jun 9, 2020

You may need to make a few more psots before you are allowed to post photos for some strange reason. All 9n and 2n tractors serial numbers start with 9N. do you have a voltage regulator on the back of the dash in behind the air cleaner?

JMOR · Jun 9, 2020

(quoted from post at 14:48:04 06/09/20) Here are the pictures. I have some of the original wiring. But, well, I'll post those later if I need to.
It looks like the placard says 9N. There's a pic of that too.

Front or Side

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Ok... 1 picture at a time I guess.
The placard looks like it says 9N 98520

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Trying to post pics. Having trouble.

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Front.
For some reason. My pictures aren't
uploading.
2 wires on the Solenoid. 1 on Starter.
1 on Generator.
Placard looks like 9N 98520

JMOR · Jun 9, 2020

(quoted from post at 15:33:39 06/09/20) Front.
For some reason. My pictures aren't
uploading.
2 wires on the Solenoid. 1 on Starter.
1 on Generator.
Placard looks like 9N 98520

9N/2N start switch and cut-out

8N solenoid:

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Solenoid has 2 wires. Generator has 1. Placard appears to say 9N.

JMOR · Jun 9, 2020

(quoted from post at 16:15:24 06/09/20) Solenoid has 2 wires. Generator has 1. Placard appears to say 9N.

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto46665.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto46667.jpg">

ee the picture that I posted......your picture shows starter switch (NOT a solenoid) and a cut-out

R Geiger · Jun 9, 2020

Ater you learn what part is what, wire it like the diagram you posted. You are making headway!

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Since it was taking sooooo long to upload pictures. I recorded a short video. And put it on youtube. Here's the private link.

https://youtu.be/ichO2q2d0r8
Tractor

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Thank you!!! It all makes more sense
now! I assumed it was a solenoid. But,
there isn't one I guess?

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

I see what you mean by learning what
part is what.
I see now. Thank you!

JMOR · Jun 9, 2020

Not perfectly clear from your video, but I would not connect a battery before carefully examining that ammeter wiring. From what I can see you have a short from ammeter wires to chassis ground! That looks like a "loop style" ammeter with wires connected to mounting screws! If I am correct in observation and you connect it like that , some wires will burn.
A correct loop style:

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

Glad I checked in here first.
Thank you. Yes. I was about to make a
big mistake.
Going to make it like the picture now.
I don't like diagrams for this reason.
Here is how I have it at the moment.
I'll post an after picture when done.
Btw... do I have the ignition right?

LM1970 · Jun 9, 2020

There. Corrected it.
Looks like I'm going to have to charge the battery again. Although, I just got it last year. Stored it inside for the winter. Charged it a couple weeks ago.
But.... even now, with all connections cleaned. And new battery cables.
It barely groans. Could the "new" starter be the issue?
The ammeter moves ever so slightly when I engage the starter button. Toward the low side. But barely enough to even notice.

JMOR · Jun 9, 2020

(quoted from post at 20:01:18 06/09/20) There. Corrected it.
Looks like I'm going to have to charge the battery again. Although, I just got it last year. Stored it inside for the winter. Charged it a couple weeks ago.
But.... even now, with all connections cleaned. And new battery cables.
It barely groans. Could the "new" starter be the issue?
The ammeter moves ever so slightly when I engage the starter button. Toward the low side. But barely enough to even notice.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto46704.jpg">

lace a voltmeter from battery post to battery post while running starter and measure that voltage.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Jun 10, 2020

The CLYMER/I&T FO-4 Manual is correct for the 9N/2N & 8N wiring. The OEM ESSENTIAL MANUALS also have the wiring diagrams. YOU need to know which one you have -the 9N/2N electrical setup is different than the 8N. Don't buy any new parts til old are verified to be defective and most major parts can be rebuilt. The 9N (after s/n 12500) and the 2N used a 1-Wire starter motor and NO Solenoid. They also used a 1-Wire/3-Brush 11 AMP B-Circuit Generator WITH the roundcan cutout circuit. The OEM Ballast resistor and Induction "loop" style AMMETER were also in the circuit. Just because you have a 6V battery don't assume it is wired for the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Get battery tested -a charge doesn't mean it is good. Get the correct wiring diagram and go thru entire system with a VOM/Continuity Meter -NOT a test light. If you have an 8N, then you have a 3-Wire/3 brush (early) or 2-Brush (later) generator, a square Voltage Regulator, and a 3-wire starter motor with a solenoid. OEM Ballast Resistor is used on the early 8N with the front mount distributor. The later 8N with side mount does NOT use the ballast resistor. Search for Wiring Pictograms by JMOR and download a copy. Forget any lights for now -lights were never factory installed, always dealer optional accessories. Get battery tested and replaced if and only when tested bad that it won't hold a charge under load. Lastly, whatever you have, do you have a belt tensioner device on the generator? Correct fan belt tension is needed otherwise you will never charge the battery.

FORD 9N/2N WIRING 6V & 12V:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

FORD 8N TRACTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS:

*PICTOGRAMS courtesy of JMOR

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

LM1970 · Jun 10, 2020

I had checked the voltage at the Starter
prior to rewiring it all. It was 1 to
1.5v when button was pushed. Brand new
switch. Thought that was the issue last
fall. The old one was seriously broken.
The Starter side had 5 washers and was
still always loose.
So, now, the Battery reads 5.33 volts.
With multimeter on Battery Terminals...
It drops to 5.15 to 5.05 when button is
engaged.
Voltage reading at the Starter is now
just 0.47v
The New Positive cable may be too long.
It was all they had on Friday. Going to
get a 24" 4 guage now.
Starter and Neg. Cables are 12" and 4
Guage.
Any ideas?

JMOR · Jun 10, 2020

(quoted from post at 15:24:23 06/10/20) I had checked the voltage at the Starter
prior to rewiring it all. It was 1 to
1.5v when button was pushed. Brand new
switch. Thought that was the issue last
fall. The old one was seriously broken.
The Starter side had 5 washers and was
still always loose.
So, now, the Battery reads 5.33 volts.
With multimeter on Battery Terminals...
It drops to 5.15 to 5.05 when button is
engaged.
Voltage reading at the Starter is now
just 0.47v
The New Positive cable may be too long.
It was all they had on Friday. Going to
get a 24" 4 guage now.
Starter and Neg. Cables are 12" and 4
Guage.
Any ideas?

ou don't drop from 5v to 0.47v due to cable resistance....you have a bad connection somewhere. Just move along the paths with voltmeter & you will find it.

LM1970 · Jun 10, 2020

I left the Battery Cable as it was. Made
sure all connections were good.
Hat a 6.33v reading on the Pos. Side of
starter switch.
Drops to 4.13v when I try to start. Same
reading at other side of switch and
starter when trying to start. 4.13v or
so. Has Zero cranking power.
Gonna charge the Battery and see.

While I'm here..... what would I need
at this point to make a 12v conversion?

I know the Coil has to be a 12v coil. I
have one.
What else?

My starter has a sticker that says. 6
volt.
I've seen one at tractor Supply that
says 6 or 12 volt. Are they the same?

HarryVanderpool · Jun 10, 2020

Changing to 12V won't help anything.
Once your tractor is squared away and in perfect tune, it will start faster than any engine you have ever owned.
You will push the button and it will pop faster than you can get off the button.
12V won't (can't) do any better than that!
Take your battery and have it load tested.

LM1970 · Jun 22, 2020

So......

I had a choice of bringing the Battery that I bought in September last year for a "load test".
Or, buying a tester myself.
Or, buying another battery.
I decided to just try another battery.
It is getting the exact...and I mean exact, same result.
The engine groans a 1/4 turn and then stops.
As for voltage....
6.37v at Battery.
6.37v on one side of the (also new) starter switch.
4.51v on the other side of the switch when engaged. And ...
4.51v at the starter.

I'm at a loss.
This used to start better than my car.

JMOR · Jun 22, 2020

(quoted from post at 16:01:53 06/22/20) So......

I had a choice of bringing the Battery that I bought in September last year for a "load test".
Or, buying a tester myself.
Or, buying another battery.
I decided to just try another battery.
It is getting the exact...and I mean exact, same result.
The engine groans a 1/4 turn and then stops.
As for voltage....
6.37v at Battery.
6.37v on one side of the (also new) starter switch.
4.51v on the other side of the switch when engaged. And ...
4.51v at the starter.

I'm at a loss.
This used to start better than my car.

6.37v on one side of the (also new) starter switch." With or without starter engaged?

LM1970 · Jun 23, 2020

The 6.37v is without the button engaged.
It drops to 4.80v or so when the button
is pushed.

JMOR · Jun 23, 2020

(quoted from post at 16:10:42 06/23/20) The 6.37v is without the button engaged.
It drops to 4.80v or so when the button
is pushed.

.57 volt drop with starter load is somewhat high (expect ~ 0.5 to 1 volt). This may mean that starter is drawing too much current. Do we know that this is a good starter?

LM1970 · Jun 23, 2020

It is also new. I replaced the old one,
because I originally thought it was the
problem.

LM1970 · Jun 23, 2020

When I say new. Technically it's brand
new. I bought it and put it in, fresh out
of the box. It has however, been sitting
for a number of years. I have kept it
covered to keep as much moisture out as
possible.
I also sprayed it well with contact
cleaner a while back.
It engages. But barely turns the engine.

JMOR · Jun 23, 2020

If you have decent jumper cables, use them to jump from your vehicle to tractor and see what starter does on 12v. So as to leave tractor cables, connections, switch "as is" as much as possible, remove the cables at the battery and connect jumpers to those cable ends. Leave ignition OFF, so as to avoid placing 12 volts on anything other than starter. 6v battery is totally out of picture. If you wish to be extra cautious, you can remove wire from BATT terminal of cut out, but since a good cut out will be open, it shouldn't matter.

LM1970 · Jun 23, 2020

I'll give this a try, if I can.
I tried posting a picture of the starter.
It does say 6 Volt on it.
Still ok to try 12 volts on it?

HFJ · Jun 23, 2020

yes. i've been putting 12 volts to my theoretically 6 volt starter for 10+ years now. the starter will not care

9N Wiring

New User

Member

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

New User

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

New User

New User

Well-known Member

New User

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Member

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

New User

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

Similar threads