update on knocking 2N

Gantt

Member
i pulled the oil pan and checked the rod cap and main cap bearings. all in spec, mains .0015 clearance, rods are .003 i did find a cracked pickup tube, which is likely where my low oil pressure was coming from. rotating the engine by hand i cannot see any wrist pin slack, though i am not sure i would be able to see by the naked eye. and i dont see a sleeve moving, all appear to protrude from the bottom of the block the same amount using a feeler gauge with a mark on it to gauge the depth on each one.
i found some more things to replace when i pulled the front axle assembly, so i made another parts order, including a new pickup tube. i was advised my others to rotated the engine before i install the oil pan to be sure the new tube clears the crankshaft.

i am going to reassemble the tractor and run it as is. i may be paranoid about the knock, and not wanting to cause more damage i tore it down to have a look. better safe than sorry. i will get old older fellow that knows these engines well to listen to it after its together and see what they think.
on the list now is oil pan gaskets, new pivot tube and bushing for the axle. maybe i can get the old girl together and take her for a neighborhood spin soon.
then on to the 8N project!!!
 
after speaking with a guy a few counties above me, he suggested i pull the head and look for carbon buildup, and while piston is at TDC, check for any wiggle for piston knock/slap. got a head gasket ordered. he also suggested if i could probably be safe running it, since the bottom end is known to be ok.
 
Did you ever check that you have the correct bolts holding the distributor on? I found out about that after doing a complete teardown on mine. The bolts are 7/8" long and must have a spring lock waher on them. Loose the washer and put them back in or put a 1" bolt in and they hit the timing gear behindf the distributor. Mechanic lisining to it run told me it was wrist pin knock. When getting ready to put back together noticed the groves cut into that gear from the bolts hitting.
 
(quoted from post at 11:30:16 03/30/20) i pulled the oil pan and checked the rod cap and main cap bearings. all in spec, mains .0015 clearance, rods are .003 i did find a cracked pickup tube, which is likely where my low oil pressure was coming from. rotating the engine by hand i cannot see any wrist pin slack, though i am not sure i would be able to see by the naked eye. and i dont see a sleeve moving, all appear to protrude from the bottom of the block the same amount using a feeler gauge with a mark on it to gauge the depth on each one.
i found some more things to replace when i pulled the front axle assembly, so i made another parts order, including a new pickup tube. i was advised my others to rotated the engine before i install the oil pan to be sure the new tube clears the crankshaft.

i am going to reassemble the tractor and run it as is. i may be paranoid about the knock, and not wanting to cause more damage i tore it down to have a look. better safe than sorry. i will get old older fellow that knows these engines well to listen to it after its together and see what they think.
on the list now is oil pan gaskets, new pivot tube and bushing for the axle. maybe i can get the old girl together and take her for a neighborhood spin soon.
then on to the 8N project!!!

One very handy thing to have is a mechanics stethoscope. It can help you locate noises on your tractor.
 
i have not checked the distributor bolts, i had forgotten about you telling me about that.

i do have a mechanic stethoscope and the best i can tell its near #4, mid to lower end of engine.

i took my compression gauge set home, I will do a test this weekend to see what i have on each cyl.

my father had an old truck once that had what he called piston knock when the engine was cold. most noticeable in winter months. it would go away when the engine got up to operating temps. we heard it at all rpm ranges.
 

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