9N No Spark after setting in cold weather.

After cold weather my 9N has no spark. Last year I replaced points and condenser, cap, and rotor button. Runs great until cold weather then won't start.

The number 1 cause of a weak/no spark is a weak battery.

If I had a dollar for every new starter, solenoid or coil purchased because of a weak battery, poor grounds or defective cables, I?d be a wealthy man.

If your tractor won?t start, the very first place to start looking is the battery. Then connections & cables.

This is where both a digital volt meter and a hydrometer come in handy. A fully charged battery should read 6.32 volts with specific gravity at 1.265 in each
cell. A battery at 50% charge will read 6.12 volts with a specific gravity of 1.190. And, at 6.03 volts and a specific gravity of 1.155, you only have a 25%
charged battery. You need a strong battery to close the solenoid, spin the starter, engage the Bendix and provide voltage to the coil. As the battery gets
weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking. The more current you use to
spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

Don?t rely on just the meter; you can string flashlight batteries together and get 6 volts. Will that start your tractor? The meter will tell you if the battery
is bad??but it won?t tell you if it is good. That?s why you need the hydrometer.

Use a terminal cleaner and wire brush to clean all the connections.

When you do need a new battery, skip the cheap crap at Wallyworld or TSC. Buy an American made Deka or Duracell, both made by EastPenn.

And then get a float charger. A float charger, not a trickle charger. (I use Battery Tenders on all my tractors)

Clean grounds & battery terminals are always important. Don?t forget to loosen the starter from the block (see tip # 36) and polish the block & all starter
mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground.

If you can?t remember the last time you replaced the battery cables, it?s time to do it. Just because the terminals are clean doesn?t mean there is no corrosion
under the insulation. And, this is another case where size matters. Make sure you have the 0 gauge cable and braided ground strap. The skinny little 12 volt
cables won?t work. (see tip # 41)

Finally, when you replaced the points, did you also set th timing?
75 Tips

First of all, think of it this way. The spark that jumps across the spark plug gap doesn't care what the temperature is. So, if there is no spark it has to go back to the fact that there isn't enough current from the battery while cranking a cold engine. Why? Weak battery, poor battery connections, starter motor is tired and drawing too much current, starter mounting surface dirty. I would suspect the battery first. Check each cell with a hydrometer if you have one. You can check the voltage with a volt meter, but that doesn't always tell the story. Take it and the starter to a auto electric shop or an auto supply and have them tested. Have you read Bruce's 75 tips?

Didn't intend to override your post Bruce, You sent yours while I was typing mine.

Ditto what Bruce says. After you have tended to the battery, if there is still no spark, you need to check for corrosion on the points.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I already have a Deka battery, new cables and the starter draw is good. A mechanic from the 60's-70's era
diagnosed the problem as the condenser. I replaced the condenser and it fires right up. I have never heard of that. Thank you again.