1941 9N ford. I am replacing the two clutch shaft bushings in the bell housing. One on both sides that support the clutch shaft. I knocked the 2 out without paying attention to where the split line in the bearing or the hole goes. Anyone know the proper orientation of the hole/split in the bearing? Not really sure what the hole is for or if it matters.
- Thread starter Abbby
- Start date
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
The bushings are generic and the hole is for lubrication. As best I remember the tractors do not have any provision for lubricating those bushings so in this application the hole can go anywhere. The split has no purpose and is an artifact of the manufacturing process (rolling).
TOH
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
(quoted from post at 14:57:15 03/24/20)(quoted from post at 07:03:04 03/24/20) The purpose of the split in the bushing is to allow for it to collapse on itself while you're installing it w/o a bushing driver.
Yep!
Nope - it's primarily an artifact of the manufacturing process. Cheap and fast to make from flat stock.
Why is there a split in my bushing
TOH
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Yea, I know.
I was just trying to be a smart azz!
I was just trying to be a smart azz!
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
(quoted from post at 10:18:26 03/25/20)
I was just trying to be a smart azz!
Me too :lol:
TOH
So I went to do what I thought was a simple task of driving the new bushings in. I had a close size bushing driver and it went in extremely harder then what I anticipated but got it done. Now the clutch shaft will not go in which I anticipated after the tight fit.. Measured the second bushing OD at .945 and the bore in the bell housing at .925. Houston there is a problem. Any advice on what others have done to work around this. Kind of wish I would have just left things as is but there was some slop in the old ones and I had the tractor split.
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
If your measurements are right that is way too much interference - .005 would be on the high side and you measure 4X that. Are you SURE those measurements are accurate and what are you doing to correct for the split in the bearing? Based on the first bearing you are going to have to ream both after installation.
TOH
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Whut part number are you using.
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
YT describes their part as 7/8" (.875) ID. If wall thickness is .062 (pretty dam' thin) the OD would be 1.00" on the button. Somethings not adding up in this story.
TOH
'Somethings not adding up in this story.'
What's not adding up is that someone is confusing the clutch shaft and brake shaft dimensions.
Here's the official info from the FIAT site (brake shaft bushing, #12, and clutch shaft bushing. Shows clutch shaft bushing O.D. as 23.96MM, about (0.9433").
(Heck, I think I'm more confused now than before after converting the dimensions listed! :shock: )
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
(quoted from post at 15:04:23 03/26/20)
'Somethings not adding up in this story.'
What's not adding up is that someone is confusing the clutch shaft and brake shaft dimensions.
Here's the official info from the FIAT site (brake shaft bushing, #12, and clutch shaft bushing. Shows clutch shaft bushing O.D. as 23.96MM, about (0.9433").
(Heck, I think I'm more confused now than before after converting the dimensions listed! :shock: )
Clutch shaft is .5/8", brake shaft is 1" which is reasonable but OD of both bushings is non standard and wall thickness is tissue thin. Given FORDs fondness for non-standard bushings that's also believable. But the OPs .925 bore measurement is way smaller than would be reasonable even for FORD and not so believable.
TOH
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
Ooops - should be 7/8 not 5/8.
TOH
So here is what I have with a Mitutoyo digital caliper
Bushing OD - .944
Housing ID - .93 (little tricky getting a good reading)
Bushing thickness - .038
Shaft OD .875
Part number of bushing 407508A
Add up the parts and not going into the .93 hole
Have to think many people have done this
Bushing OD - .944
Housing ID - .93 (little tricky getting a good reading)
Bushing thickness - .038
Shaft OD .875
Part number of bushing 407508A
Add up the parts and not going into the .93 hole
Have to think many people have done this
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
Tough to get an accurate measurement of a bore with calipers. Now you are down to roughly .010 Interference which is much more realistic especially given the soft bearing material.
Drive it in with a good fitting mandrel just as you did the first one - you may peel some material off the OD in the process. Then ream both to .876/.877 being careful to keep the bores colinear. Lots of people have done this - mine were done almost 20 years ago and it was straight forward.
TOH
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
I'd go here:
Size G adjustable reamer
I can loan you one if you dont want to buy. Probably cost $16 to ship both ways.
TOH
Cleaned the bores up really good with scotchbrite and drove the bushings in. Going to order a reamer today. Never thought they were so economical. Thinking about ordering set but that is a slippery slope. Thanks for all the help. Now get the Sherman back together and put back in. Getting closer to run time!
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
Those blade type HAND reamers are handy because they have a big range of adjustment but you will discover they require some patience and practice. No match for a chucking reamer in a machine tool. They work best on soft metals like these bushings and you can take them anywhere. Do not expect to take heavy cuts even in soft metals.
To use insert in the bore and adjust out in small increments while turning and moving in/out until you get the first slight drag. Make sure the adjusting collars are tight and stay tight!!! The blades WILL cant, dig in, and bind the moment they start to cut. If you crank up on the wrench you will break a blade. Reverse up and out and start in again trying to stay as plumb as possible. The reamer has a slight taper - smaller at the bottom and larger at the top. Turn and feed slowly until you can run the reamer top to bottom in the bore while turning. Pull out, expand a few thousandths, and repeat.
I have multiple sets that cover 1/4 to 1-1/4 and I seldom resort to them. But when i do need one they are handier than a shirt pocket.
TOH
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