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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Hydralics

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dandb

03-17-2020 22:18:08




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On my 8N, when I have my brushhog on, when the lift control is in the full down position, the 3 point hitch will stay down. When I try to lift the front of the brushhog one or two inches off of the ground, sometimes after five minutes, sometimes twenty minutes of mowing, the time varies, the three point hitch just lifts by itself to its highest point. The lift control does not move when hitch is going up on it's own. Any Ideas?

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Tim PloughNman Daley

03-19-2020 01:52:32




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to dandb, 03-17-2020 22:18:08  
Your system is probably dirty, worn, due for a rebuild, contaminated with water and/or all of the above. You can find a lot of info in the basic Essential Manuals - Owner/Operator; Master Parts Catalogs; & Service Manuals - all have system info. Have you checked the dipstick for oil? If low, dirty or milky white you have problems -see below. The I&T (Now Clymer)FO-4 manual has a good R&R procedure. Also, all 9N & 2N tractors are basically the same with DRAFT CONTROL mode only. The 8N introduced POSITION CONTROL and the linkages in each system is different. The hydraulics and pump were not changed until the 8N in July, 1947, and the systems do not interchange. SOME parts do. When was the last time you had your system rebuilt? If it's been a long time, it may be due. A worn cylinder will leak and if oil is contaminated and/or dirty, that'll affect function as well. There's a good D-I-Y video by J&D Productions (SEE LINK) on pulling and rebuilding the 9N/2N pump. Have you performed the Leak Down Test? Raise the lift and shut down tractor. Does the load drop within minutes, hours or even a day or two? A proper lift will keep a load raised for months. Dropping the load otherwise indicates the cylinder is worn out. Next, attach a load like a blade, mower, or plow, or you can just chain down the lift too when raised and lift fully UP to the top of Quadrant. Leave it UP and shut down the tractor. Remove the side Inspection Covers for the hydraulic system. At this point observe the condition of the hydraulic oil. Is it a white milky/brown color, dark, dirty, or a clear, honey like color? It should be the latter. If whitish, you have water contamination and will need a total cleaning, possibly pulling and rebuilding of the pump and system. next, crouch down and using you Mini-Mag flashlight, look up underneath the seat where the cylinder is mounted and watch closely to see if oil is leaking out and around the cylinder. If yes, your cylinder and piston are worn and need replacing. Now, it's important to know that All 9N, 2N, and 8N systems used the piston p/n 9N-530, which had three steel rings as seals and wipers. These would scar and cause grooves in the cylinder bore and eventually cause leaks. The NAA/Jubilee system introduced a better piston, p/n NAA-530B that now had a rubber O-RING and leather backup washer/seal/wiper. This piston also works in the 9N/2N & 8N cylinder. I don't know if they even make the 3-ring style anymore. Pulling the top cover is the big chore and the entire job isn't difficult, just time consuming. The 9N/2N has a 'wishbone' bracket' that must be released BEFORE the top cover can be pulled otherwise damage will occur. Both cylinders use 4 bolts to fasten the unit to the top cover. It is very important to know which 4 they are and leave them attached before removing reference your MPC. You will remove the cylinder once the top cover is off and on your bench. Get the manuals and read first. Get the video and watch first. Get my article on repair first available on the 'other' Ford N-Tractor site or email me. The D-I-Y video was done years ago by J&D Productions, Metamora, MICH (SEE LINK). Jennifer & Dan Gingell, along with his brother-in-law and father-in-law did a bunch of tractor repair videos for all makes. Nowadays they are done by their daughter Rachel and known as "Wrenching With Rachel" at Steiner Tractor and on U-TOOB.

Tim Daley(MI)

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dandb

03-19-2020 18:53:59




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to Tim PloughNman Daley, 03-19-2020 01:52:32  
Thanks for your reply. Actually I rebuilt the pump and put in a new piston and cylinder last spring. I bought the tractor two years ago. The hydraulics were not working right so I rebuilt it. This problem started sometime in late summer and got worst over time.



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Royse

03-18-2020 15:05:14




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to dandb, 03-17-2020 22:18:08  
Is it in position control mode or draft control mode?



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dandb

03-18-2020 15:22:29




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to Royse, 03-18-2020 15:05:14  
It is in position control mode.



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Bruce (VA)

03-18-2020 04:42:36




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to dandb, 03-17-2020 22:18:08  
You could have a bad friction disc or stuck/dirty exhaust valve. When the lift works it's way up, take the inspection plate w/ the dipstick off. Move the touch control lever & make sure it moves the control rod. If the control rod is connected & the touch control lever doesn't move it, the friction disc might be bad. Then push the control rod to the rear; if the lift drops, yo found the problem.

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dandb

03-18-2020 16:29:17




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 Re: Hydralics in reply to Bruce (VA), 03-18-2020 04:42:36  
Thanks for the reply. I will have time to check it out this weekend.



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