TSX 33 Carb

This is where the gas level is now 1800 hours Nampa, Idaho time. It"s not high enough now to over flow. I"ll check in the AM.
I used a file on the two sections, not because I could see a need, but because I was getting tired of trying different things. And I had not tried that yet.
As I had replaced the needle and seat twice I figured they were okay and re-tested the float.
Thanks for your assistance, Tom/Idaho

OK -Did you attach that tube for a reason or just to see the fuel? Do you shut off the Sediment Bulb Valve when tractor is off? You should be. Is there fuel in the air intake throat? You will get fuel out of thru the NPT drain plug -that is what it is for -and where you have the tube attached. Have you performed The Fuel Flow Test? Do this: With engine COLD, Sediment Bulb valve CLOSED, loosen and remove the NPT drain plug on the bottom of the carb. be sure to have a container below to catch the fuel in. Now open the Sediment Bulb Fuel Valve 2 Full turns only. Fuel flow thru the drain port should be a steady stream and fill a pint jar in 2 minutes. If so you are fine. If not, close valve and replace the drain plug. Next, go to the carb fuel inlet brass elbow and with a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench, a standard 7/16 open end or Crescent Wrench will work but NO pliers, Channel Locks, or Vise Grips. Loosen the fuel line coming from the Sediment Bulb. Slip the line with the fitting up over the elbow and point the fuel line down into the container. Now open the Fuel Valve 2 Full Turns only. Observe if the fuel flow is an almost pencil-thick stream, unobstructed, with no hesitation, sputtering, stopping and starting. If flow is sufficient, no problems with your fuel flow. Close valve, and at this point it wouldn't hurt to remove and clean the brass elbow inlet. It has a fine mesh screen attached at the end, the last of three inline screens in the system. Note the carb has an NPT tapped port for the brass elbow fuel inlet. DO NOT ATTEMPT to clean the threads with anything but the correct NPT tap. The brass elbow has, as does the Sediment Bulb fuel out port and fuel valve port a special thread too -it is industry standard for brake and fuel lines at 7/16"-24 UNS. Any attempt to chase the threads with the wrong tap or die would be disastrous. If you don't know, leave it alone. Did you set the main Jet and Idle Air correctly? The carb must be adjusted when engine is warmed up and often needs a few settings to get it right. Make short 1/8 turns at a time then wait for the engine RPMS to catch up. I advise strongly against using rubber, nylon, copper, plastic, or aluminum as a fuel line. Use the standard 1/4" steel tubing. If you want to, I will look at your carb, make adjustments, set to standard OEM settings, test, and have you try it. My email is open.

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim, thanks for your interest. See post from 2/24 for a little background.

After about 12 hours the gas level has risen and is now even with the two sections and leaking onto the floor.
Including the original rebuild a year ago I have installed three needle, seats and gaskets sets.
Float floats and has been adjusted up & down many times. Needle seat is tight on new gasket.
Needles all have had the black tip with wire bracket to attach it to the float.
I have rebuilt many Ford N carbs without a problem, but am obviously missing something here.
As I said before I rebuilt this carb a year ago and then out of the blue it started seeping gas out the carb throat. Main gasket is new and has been changed on every try.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho

(quoted from post at 13:41:45 02/25/20) Tim, thanks for your interest. See post from 2/24 for a little background.

After about 12 hours the gas level has risen and is now even with the two sections and leaking onto the floor.
Including the original rebuild a year ago I have installed three needle, seats and gaskets sets.
Float floats and has been adjusted up & down many times. Needle seat is tight on new gasket.
Needles all have had the black tip with wire bracket to attach it to the float.
I have rebuilt many Ford N carbs without a problem, but am obviously missing something here.
As I said before I rebuilt this carb a year ago and then out of the blue it started seeping gas out the carb throat. Main gasket is new and has been changed on every try.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho

Click to expand...

hat needle seat has to be really tught & with a standard screwdriver that isn't real likely as the brass is damaged first. Most make a tool from a damaged chisel or something else, for a wide blade that fits tight.

Something like this might let you see the leak source, but may be too slow to observe?

When I first started rebuilding 8N carbs I made a special screwdriver for that purpose.

Tom/Idaho

I had a similar problem a few years ago. Careful examination revealed a chip (fracture) in ther area where the needle seat gasket fit. I solved the problem by using a an o'ring between the needle seat and the casting.

The way you describe how it just started out of the blue like that, I'm thinking along the lines that H.Cook talked about. A tiny crack around the seat or the float is taking gas inside. But you should be able to feel or hear that.